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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Tell me what is inside for a battery-forget it, page 20
19
model no. 052-1899-2 | contact us 1-800-689-9928
DIODE AND CONTINUITY
RANGE
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Using Relative Mode
Relative mode is available in all functions except frequency and duty
cycle functions.
Selecting relative mode causes the meter to store the present
reading as a reference for subsequent measurements.
INTRODUCTION
The approx. forward
voltage drop of the
diode will be displayed.
The built-in buzzer will
sound if the resistance
is less than about 50 Ω.
The buzzer will not
sound if the resistance
is more than 120 Ω.
TEST CONDITION
Open Circuit Voltage:
about 1.5 V

Overload Protection:
300 V DC/AC

Not much further ahead than with the other meter-we may just need to use a combination of ohmmeter and diode test--the end result may be meaningless.
So am I back to shopping for a diode?
 

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no point-the good news is you will be able to test the regulator. I am going to come up with some tests geared towards your meter. May take me 10 minutes as I need to write them down first
 

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I have some tests, but after looking at page 15 of your manual, I have my doubts, open circuit voltage is 0.25, the two diode circuit needs in excess of 1.75 volts
using ohms, you can select the range manually, possibly start with the 4K ohm and work your way up to the 40 meg ohm. I doubt we will have any success.
Black on 18 to red 19
black on #9 to red #10
black on 4 to red 5
the following readings may just not work
black on 11 to red 2
black on 11 to red 1
 

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Discussion Starter · #185 ·
I have some tests, but after looking at page 15 of your manual, I have my doubts, open circuit voltage is 0.25, the two diode circuit needs in excess of 1.75 volts
using ohms, you can select the range manually, possibly start with the 4K ohm and work your way up to the 40 meg ohm. I doubt we will have any success.
Black on 18 to red 19
black on #9 to red #10
black on 4 to red 5
the following readings may just not work
black on 11 to red 2
black on 11 to red 1
So selecting the range manually, I seem just to get a decimal version (or no reading) of the original OMS (or the OMS on the selector without a M or a k....Does that seem correct?) the last two I get nothing on, no matter what.
 

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yes normal
 

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I had a detailed post, which seems to have vanished.
I had a link for testing the regulator-your new meter should work.
Here is a summary ;
You had charging problems-is that still the case?
Before you put the gas tank back- look closely at all the connectors to the relay box-that is look at the pins inside, are they all at the same length-that is, a slight pull on the wire, will they pull out of the socket?
The socket from the kill switch/start button, right-hand wiring-found just below and at the front of the gas tank ( take it apart and inspect for corrosion-anything electrical that you take apart, put a light coating of dielectric grease on it - I have seen cases where the plug was tight but the terminals were barely touching, because more force was needed for it to lock in place-after applying grease it was easy peezy

Please check the connections on the ECU -that is take the connectors off the ECU and check for corrosion, the same thing, apply grease -remember the grease isn't magic, too much and you have a poor connection.

The fan temperature sensor will need to be tested-but later, we will use boiling water- simple and your 400 ohm range is perfect
The plan is to make this bike reliable in starting and running until you run out of gas

One thing, make sure you have really good light, watch closely when you take connectors apart and put back together, one pin moving within a connector could be all it takes for starting problems, once heated up, it expands and once the bike is stopped our expanded connection is a high resistance joint and the ECU is lacking a signal- which should generate a code-but not necessarily

To be honest-I would be checking every connector, including the cluster harness-some were wired directly, some had plugs, I am talking the one hidden under your front plastic -my 07 was wired directly-not all were like this-the 07 in later years had issues with corrosion and water damage-the 2015 has vast improvements with rubber boots on every connector a PITA as most of the wiring is too short.
My aim is to solve this before you put it back together.

Did you replace all the vacuum lines? If not,we are talking about $20 at the parts source or Canadian tire.
 

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So....what is up next?
Take your pick with the above post. I had a post like above that vanished or never got past the queue -lost in cyber space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
Take your pick with the above post. I had a post like above that vanished or never got past the queue -lost in cyber space.
Yes- I never did see that post, but I have a lot to do here. I will double check all connections and connectors. Yes I still have a charging problem, and the main problem is that the charging sometimes happens, but not all the time. The last guy I took the bike to, the bike was not charging when I got there- Great he says, then we can fix it. He then looked at it 2 days later, it was charging fine. He rode it around, monitoring the charging, also fine. He checked all the connections and put in a new regulator, as the old one was "strange", but sure enough, after a couple rides when I got it back. Same problem. This problem occurred when I was buying the bike, on the test ride, but the owner sent it to the garage who said that there was moisture in the connection to the regulator, so they put a new battery and new regulator in, I rode about 1000kms on that (originally) and then this problem showed up again.
I have not replaced the vacuum lines, but will, also wondering if there is anything else I should do when I have this tank off!
One other question I have is, when I did the test for the relay box (from the manual) the two readings 1-11, and 2-11 I got no reading on....does this not mean I need a new box? Or is that too simplistic of an assumption. On a side note, I found a guy who is parting out my same year and model of bike....which might come in handy...) I will report back as soon as I have done the above, might take a few days....
Thanks AGAIN.
 

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Yes- I never did see that post, but I have a lot to do here. I will double check all connections and connectors. Yes I still have a charging problem, and the main problem is that the charging sometimes happens, but not all the time. The last guy I took the bike to, the bike was not charging when I got there- Great he says, then we can fix it. He then looked at it 2 days later, it was charging fine. He rode it around, monitoring the charging, also fine. He checked all the connections and put in a new regulator, as the old one was "strange", but sure enough, after a couple rides when I got it back. Same problem. This problem occurred when I was buying the bike, on the test ride, but the owner sent it to the garage who said that there was moisture in the connection to the regulator, so they put a new battery and new regulator in, I rode about 1000kms on that (originally) and then this problem showed up again.
I have not replaced the vacuum lines, but will, also wondering if there is anything else I should do when I have this tank off!
One other question I have is, when I did the test for the relay box (from the manual) the two readings 1-11, and 2-11 I got no reading on....does this not mean I need a new box? Or is that too simplistic of an assumption. On a side note, I found a guy who is parting out my same year and model of bike....which might come in handy...) I will report back as soon as I have done the above, might take a few days....
Thanks AGAIN.
1-11 and 2-11 are the headlight relay. There is a way of testing it, but I was looking for a problem with discharging your battery.
One other thing I know I mentioned but will repeat it. Have you had the engine ground off and cleaned? This is prone to corrosion. On my 07 I turned the ring stakon into a modified fork, as there is no slack on the 8 gauge wire, and the bolt is on a angle- very easy to cross thread.


The charging system uses this about 75% - the frame grounds make up the remainder 25%. Also a poor frame ground would inhibit the ECU from allowing to start.

Crazy as it sounds, the ECU doesn't have a copper negative connection to the negative battery terminal. It depends on the engine and frame grounds due to high frequency signals it controls.

Also the ECU switches the negative wire to the stick coils . I think you can see why I tell people to check your grounds and battery connections .
 

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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
Ok- I have checked all wires for signs of wear/rubbing anything! But all look brand new. I have checked and double checked (and greased) every connector on the top level of the bike. Every single one looks great, and was clean and in good shape, except for the last one I checked (will get to that in a moment!) I am assuming I do not have the “special tool” needed to test on the ECU, but I would like to make sure I do not have to take that thing out again if possible!

Checking and cleaning the grounds was the first thing I did back when we started (if you could confirm how many there are and location of any tricky ones, that would also be great- just incase I have missed something?- I do not find the manual to be overly helpful on this front). All still look perfect.

The last connection I checked was, I believe, for the air switching valve, but have included a photo incase I am totally wrong about that. It looked “wet” inside, even though it was dry on the outside…..upon closer inspection- it looks more like oil than water, as it is a bit thick and sort of dirty….I do not know what to make of this, but I hope I have found something!!
I did not do the vacuum hose replacement, even though I have promised to do every single thing you ask! as they look very good, and all my dis-assembling was taking forever, (mostly because of my luggage racks!)
I await your thoughts before heading into re-assembly. Thanks, as always. The pictures are poor as I had lost the light, but the joint looked very very wet upon opening….
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Rim
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Automotive lighting
Automotive lighting Comfort Bag Automotive tire Audio equipment
 

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In the last photo, the pin on the left looks raised, it could be the angle of the photo or it could be an intermittent connection when hot, I would push it down to match the right side.

The vacuum hoses would only cause some idle problems or poor starting-your call-For $20 at Parts source, I did my 07 and my 2015, My new vacuum hose was superior to the OEM-and the hose will not cause a charging problem.

Have you tested the regulator with your new meter?Regulator / Series / Shunt/ Test Proof / Legit or Fake?

Did you test the voltages at the tip over switch Vehicle Down Sensor / Tip Over Switch / Bike fell down...

So far only a new meter-no smoking gun-BTW what did you do about the fire on the 3 phase connector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
The pin is not raised, just the photo angle- what do I do about this liquid? Is that not a problem?
I will do regulator test and tip over sensor and Report back.
As to the fire- I have done nothing as of yet- it is just a melted mess......which might be a problem if I need to re-attach for these tests......
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
The pin is not raised, just the photo angle- what do I do about this liquid? Is that not a problem?
I will do regulator test and tip over sensor and Report back.
As to the fire- I have done nothing as of yet- it is just a melted mess......which might be a problem if I need to re-attach for these tests......
Ok- so of course it is a yes that the bike be re-assembled for these tests. Need to know about the wet/oil situation first, and should I do some test to see that my fire has not destroyed the connection to the stator? it looks mostly to be the plastic ....
 

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The pin is not raised, just the photo angle- what do I do about this liquid? Is that not a problem?
I will do regulator test and tip over sensor and Report back.
As to the fire- I have done nothing as of yet- it is just a melted mess......which might be a problem if I need to re-attach for these tests......
If you have a shop vac that blows or compressed air , blow the liquid out. That sensor is easily removed - notice the orange inside the female connector, there is some crap on that, that is the seal, you can take a Q tip or fine screwdriver and put a light coating of grease on the outside of the seal
You can also do the same on the male part. I do this on the stick coils.
I do that on all my wheel bearings even though the bearings are sealed. The grease acts as a water barrier. On wheel bearings I pack the outer inside diameter and try and avoid getting grease where it could contact the axle when installing.
 

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Ok- so of course it is a yes that the bike be re-assembled for these tests. Need to know about the wet/oil situation first, and should I do some test to see that my fire has not destroyed the connection to the stator? it looks mostly to be the plastic ....
What is your crimping skill like and what tools do you have for crimping?
I ask because you could use 3 insulated male and female spade connectors. You could use cantwist wire nuts - the wire is long enough.
Gas Tool Electric blue Plastic Magenta
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
Ok- will address the liquid. Will Re-assemble bike.
Crimpling skil is 0, but so is my electrical skill, mechanical skill, motorcycle knowledge, etc etc, so all of these aspects are improving at the speed of molasses on a cold day, why not add this "crimping" to the list?
Sincerely, will report back as soon as possible, probably will take a couple days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 ·
Ok- will address the liquid. Will Re-assemble bike.
Crimpling skil is 0, but so is my electrical skill, mechanical skill, motorcycle knowledge, etc etc, so all of these aspects are improving at the speed of molasses on a cold day, why not add this "crimping" to the list?
Sincerely, will report back as soon as possible, probably will take a couple days.
Had to leave home for a week. Presently on re-assembly, two questions before putting this thing back together:
1. Are we not concerned about the liquid that was in the electrical connection? As in how it got there?
2. I realize that the relay box is not the problem we are looking for, but when I was testing it according to the manual, there was the one relay (headlight?) that did not give a reading, which according to the manual means I need a new box? Am I off base on this assumption? Paranoia and a strong desire not to disassemble the bike again are feeling these questions.
 
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