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Discussion Starter #1
I just completed my first valve inspection, :clap:
I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly...

I noticed when I aligned the timming marks up for the #1 piston, the cams were pointed in towards each other, and pressure was still on the lifter.
So I turned the crank over until they pointed away from each other as directed in the service manual. the # 2 piston was right on with the timming mark, both cams were pointed away from each other.

Has anybody had this issue ?

My measurements were:
Ex. .21mm /22mm
.22mm / .22 mm

In. .18mm / .18mm
.18mm / .18mm

The exhaust side was going tight on me and one valve just slipped out of tolerance. So not TOO bad. Shims are ordered and the adjust will begin soon.

ALL in all, not too bad of a job. Thank you for all the posts on valve adjustments, they were very helpfull..
 

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Pretty common for a shim or two to need adjusting at 15,000? Curious with the 26K interval also in the book for non-US/CA.
 

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Pretty common for a shim or two to need adjusting at 15,000? Curious with the 26K interval also in the book for non-US/CA.
Just "did" my valves a few weeks ago at 10,888 kms. ALL 4 exhausts were towards the 'tight' end. I opened them up to the 'loose' end. ALL 4 intakes were in the mid-to-slightly tight area, and now they are at the 'loose' end.
 

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Why do it so early?
Because they're usually found to be a bit tight, especially on the exhaust side. I had an exhaust valve clearance just under spec at 0.21mm when I checked at 2600 miles, so I set all my clearances in middle of range... It's just good to at least measure your clearances to know what they settled at after initial assembly and break-in, and what clearances your engine is operating on. Then you can set them and ride in peace. You can't know what they're at unless you get in there and check. A lack of clearance reduces heat transfer from the valves, which may lead to burt valves or valve float/drop from weakened springs.
 

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I just completed my first valve inspection, :clap:
I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly...

I noticed when I aligned the timming marks up for the #1 piston, the cams were pointed in towards each other, and pressure was still on the lifter.
So I turned the crank over until they pointed away from each other as directed in the service manual. the # 2 piston was right on with the timming mark, both cams were pointed away from each other.

Has anybody had this issue ?
It is normal for the cams to be in proper position for valve clearance measurement at every 2 rotations of the crankshaft because it's a four stroke engine. Valve train rotates at half the speed of the camshafts.
#2 is in desired position at one revolution (clockwise as seen from right/timing chain side) of the crankshaft after measuring clearances on #1.

I just thinned and switched some shims around, to set all my inlet valves' clearances at 0.18mm, and exhausts at 0.26mm near middle of spec range. I used wet fine emery cloth on a flat wooden table to thin some of my original shims.

You can get 7.48 mm diameter shims (as on Versys) in 0.025 mm increments (instead of only 0.050 mm increments) in 2.50 mm to 3.50 mm thicknesses.

Suzuki 2004-2005 RM-Z250 shims $8.47
Kawasaki 2006-2011 KX-250F shims $8.96
(Versys shims 0.050 mm increments $11.78)

Shim ------- Suzuki # ----- Kawasaki #

2.800mm - K9218-00179 - 92180-0179
2.825mm - K9218-00180 - 92180-0180
2.850mm - K9218-00181 - 92180-0181
2.875mm - K9218-00182 - 92180-0182
2.900mm - K9218-00183 - 92180-0183
2.925mm - K9218-00184 - 92180-0184
2.950mm - K9218-00185 - 92180-0185
2.975mm - K9218-00186 - 92180-0186
3.000mm - K9218-00187 - 92180-0187
3.025mm - K9218-00188 - 92180-0188
3.050mm - K9218-00189 - 92180-0189
3.075mm - K9218-00190 - 92180-0190
3.100mm - K9218-00191 - 92180-0191
 
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