April 2020 I will be editing anything to do with series regulators and Polaris installs .If someone has a question post in this thread or related threads of Technical.
Regulator / Shunt verses Series
I got a couple questionable looks today when I mentioned I am replacing my brand new 2015 regulator. I like where they mounted it, however one consideration I would suggest is to extract the pins from the OEM socket, cut the wire at the crimp, all wiring is way too short. You could order the socket kit from the post above if you wanted to restore to original, word of caution, that style of crimp requires a special crimper. I will post pictures of how I did my compufire and you could do the same for Polaris.
So, the main event:
Most equipment whether a electric motor or what is referred to as switch gear, or outlets in your home have a rating. Your duplex outlet is on a 15 amp breaker, the wire is rated to carry 15 amp, 15 X 120 = 1800 watts, however most equipment on that 15 amp circuit has a rating of 1500 watts or less.
Your wiring and breaker etc has a 80% rating, that is it isn't rated to carry 1800 watts continuously, which is 100% rated . Most equipment is rated the same way, throw in a higher ambient temperature and you need to de-rate your equipment even more--so that 80% rating becomes 70% or 60%.I hope this makes sense.
Much like a human being, hot weather and exposure to the sun , heat stroke is possible and precautions need to be taken, this applies to everything electric, heat is number one killer--you've heard "the magic smoke escaped", so having a crude electrical regulator in 2016 where it forces the stator to run 100% whenever possible makes no sense, especially since technology has been around and produced for over 10 years ie. Compu-Fire for one.
So this is where it makes no sense installing a shunt regulator and rumors have it that the 2015 has more power--we'll see. ( 2017 , further testing by me shows this is the same stator as the 2007 MK-1, same output, just a better method of cross connections and output connections)
A shunt regulator makes the stator run at 100% all the time it is above 3000 RPM, and run at maximum available output below 3000 RPM
The series regulator , say your total load is 10 amp DC ( 40% load), injectors, fuel pump and headlight , city lights and tail light, ignition, and your cell phone.I picked 25 amp rather than 23 amp for calculation purposes --and don't know the rating of the 2015, ( 10 amp / 25 amp= 40%).
With the series regulator ,stator is running at 40% load all the time, no matter what the RPM, So which stater do you think will fail first the 40% loaded one or the 100% loaded one? Plus it isn't magic, conversion from HP to electricity is at best 50% efficient , so you are burning fuel to heat up the environment, wasting 60% of the electricity produced.
Still not convinced, at idle the shunt and series regulators are equal, generally the loads of the Versys are equal to or slightly less than stator output, when we go above idle, the shunt regulator shorts out the excess above 14.2 VDC ( recent testing of several shunt regulators, including my 2015, has found that you can reach upwards of 14.8 to 15 Volts Before the regulator kicks in, resulting in it dropping to 14.5 volts, many devices made for a 12 volt system have a failure rate in the 15 VDC range, just keep that in mind, I have heard of ECU failures, but nothing that linked the failure to the regulator, on both Compu Fire and Polaris I have never seen it exceed 14.3 VDC). The series works in reverse, it is full on at idle giving what is needed to maintain 14.2 VDC , once we go above idle and attempt to exceed 14.2 VDC the series regulator starts to switch off, the higher we go in RPMs the faster it switches off, so the stator only sees the load demanded using the Series Regulator.
So the shunt regulator and stator are always going through a heat cool cycle as you go from idle to 5000 6000 RPM, so this eventually causes the magnet wire coating to fail --hence Burnt stator
Regulator / Shunt verses Series
I got a couple questionable looks today when I mentioned I am replacing my brand new 2015 regulator. I like where they mounted it, however one consideration I would suggest is to extract the pins from the OEM socket, cut the wire at the crimp, all wiring is way too short. You could order the socket kit from the post above if you wanted to restore to original, word of caution, that style of crimp requires a special crimper. I will post pictures of how I did my compufire and you could do the same for Polaris.
So, the main event:
Most equipment whether a electric motor or what is referred to as switch gear, or outlets in your home have a rating. Your duplex outlet is on a 15 amp breaker, the wire is rated to carry 15 amp, 15 X 120 = 1800 watts, however most equipment on that 15 amp circuit has a rating of 1500 watts or less.
Your wiring and breaker etc has a 80% rating, that is it isn't rated to carry 1800 watts continuously, which is 100% rated . Most equipment is rated the same way, throw in a higher ambient temperature and you need to de-rate your equipment even more--so that 80% rating becomes 70% or 60%.I hope this makes sense.
Much like a human being, hot weather and exposure to the sun , heat stroke is possible and precautions need to be taken, this applies to everything electric, heat is number one killer--you've heard "the magic smoke escaped", so having a crude electrical regulator in 2016 where it forces the stator to run 100% whenever possible makes no sense, especially since technology has been around and produced for over 10 years ie. Compu-Fire for one.
So this is where it makes no sense installing a shunt regulator and rumors have it that the 2015 has more power--we'll see. ( 2017 , further testing by me shows this is the same stator as the 2007 MK-1, same output, just a better method of cross connections and output connections)
A shunt regulator makes the stator run at 100% all the time it is above 3000 RPM, and run at maximum available output below 3000 RPM
The series regulator , say your total load is 10 amp DC ( 40% load), injectors, fuel pump and headlight , city lights and tail light, ignition, and your cell phone.I picked 25 amp rather than 23 amp for calculation purposes --and don't know the rating of the 2015, ( 10 amp / 25 amp= 40%).
With the series regulator ,stator is running at 40% load all the time, no matter what the RPM, So which stater do you think will fail first the 40% loaded one or the 100% loaded one? Plus it isn't magic, conversion from HP to electricity is at best 50% efficient , so you are burning fuel to heat up the environment, wasting 60% of the electricity produced.
Still not convinced, at idle the shunt and series regulators are equal, generally the loads of the Versys are equal to or slightly less than stator output, when we go above idle, the shunt regulator shorts out the excess above 14.2 VDC ( recent testing of several shunt regulators, including my 2015, has found that you can reach upwards of 14.8 to 15 Volts Before the regulator kicks in, resulting in it dropping to 14.5 volts, many devices made for a 12 volt system have a failure rate in the 15 VDC range, just keep that in mind, I have heard of ECU failures, but nothing that linked the failure to the regulator, on both Compu Fire and Polaris I have never seen it exceed 14.3 VDC). The series works in reverse, it is full on at idle giving what is needed to maintain 14.2 VDC , once we go above idle and attempt to exceed 14.2 VDC the series regulator starts to switch off, the higher we go in RPMs the faster it switches off, so the stator only sees the load demanded using the Series Regulator.
So the shunt regulator and stator are always going through a heat cool cycle as you go from idle to 5000 6000 RPM, so this eventually causes the magnet wire coating to fail --hence Burnt stator