Kawasaki Versys Forum

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-   Technical Discussion - V-650 (https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/170-technical-discussion-v-650/)
-   -   Break-In (https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/170-technical-discussion-v-650/550-break.html)

cabazorro 06-21-2008 05:22 PM

Break-In
 
Hello everybody.

My brand new Versys arrived Thursday with 2 miles in the odometer. Today is a beautiful Saturday so I had my very first 40m around Central Jersey.

I did do a few nose dives shifting from 1st to 2nd a few times but that was about it. The engine has a B-u-tiful surge in low revs that easily delivers 0 to 50 mph in 4 secs or so without going above 4k rpms. I'm mindful about reving up the engine because I'm on the break-in period.

THe Owner's Manual sez:

Don't go over 4K rpm on the first 500m or you'll bust the engine.

Is that so?

Because 4k rpm on 6th gear is 55-60 mph and that's someone blocking the slow lane on the highways here in NJ. In the North East USA you have to be able to push 80 mph sparingly just to get by.

Has anybody pushed the bike a bit on the early stages and got away w/ it. I just need to do 70 mph every now and then to avoid those rigs barreling down my ass on the 78 hwy next week.

Concerned.

danomar 06-21-2008 05:41 PM

Others will disagree, but I subscribe to the those-who-built-it-know-it-best philosophy and I stick to the prescribed break-in procedures. More or less. I let my Versys get up to 5000rpm from time to time during its initial break in, and I rarely had it running truly below 4000rpm. In its second break-in session, I am running the piss out of it to its 6000rpm limit.

I am sure you can push the rev limits a bit without much problem. Most modern motors are made extremely well with very good materials. That said, to truly break-in well, those hundreds of spinning pieces need time to establish wear patterns and go through heat cycles as many materials rely on those factors to harden appropriately.

More than anything else, do not let the motor overheat while breaking in. That is probably more long-term destructive than anything else. The reason behind the 4000rpm limit is to keep stresses low on the new motor and to avoid hot spots developing from hard use. On the other hand, lugging the motor can induce increased stresses on bearing surfaces.

Factories such as Kawasaki recommend a conservative break-in for many reasons, not the least of which is legal. Doesn't make the break-in period suck less, though. I stuck to riding back roads for the first 600 miles. Fun and yet annoying.
HTH
d

08 Versys 06-21-2008 05:48 PM


stargazer 06-21-2008 06:49 PM

I think the most important thing is to let the engine warm up before you drive away. The rpms on my V reduce noticeably after starting and running for a while - maybe 2 or 3 minutes. The computer is doing this as I just start it and let it run without touching the throttle. I don't drive it until that happens even now that it has 2000 miles.

vladimirpoopen 06-22-2008 09:28 PM

Break in secrets
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 08 Versys (Post 3912)

Yep, I did the same for a new car when I read that page. Broke it in hard.

Shawn 06-23-2008 08:25 AM

I had the same problem running on highways , I kept the bike below the 5000 rpm mark for the first 300 km's then 6000 rpm for next 300 km's after that ran it normally to whatever I needed , runs very well .
Try and keep the revs fluctuating , dont ride same speed for miles on end .
Give it a burst every now and then .
The mototune way makes a lot of sense and I use it to run in my offroad bikes after rebuilds .

08 Versys 06-23-2008 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn (Post 4025)
...Try and keep the revs fluctuating , dont ride same speed for miles on end. Give it a burst every now and then...

x2, that's good advice. Varied RPM's are good for break in mileage.

hacktracker 06-23-2008 09:09 AM

I too prefer the break it in hard mentality. As stargazer said, make sure you let it warm up first. So, to answer your question, NO, the engine will not blow up if you exceed the recommended RPM levels. My advice, just ride it the way you want and change the oil at 600 miles.

I pickup my Versys tonight, too bad the Mrs. wouldn't drive me so I have to trailer it back from the dealer 50 miles away.

I'm sure I'll hit redline before the night is over!

StonedGP 06-23-2008 03:23 PM

the best advice is to change that factory fish oil after the first 50 miles or so with a good non synthetic. Switch to a partial synthetic after 1500 miles or so.

hacktracker 06-24-2008 07:40 AM

That probably is ideal, but I'm too lazy and I after 15 hours of ownership, I have 88 miles. Shell Rotella at 600 miles and I'll see what I feel like doing after that. It only takes 2 quarts so I may go with something a little more exotic down the line.

dsmack 06-24-2008 07:35 PM

2 Quarts total?
 
I've been reading along, minding my own business as I fight off the urge to trade off my old, but pristine 91 ZR750 Zephyr... I noticed this thread and was somewhat amazed to read that the total capacity of the Versys crankcase is only 2 Qts?

Maybe it's just me, but I'm a little nervous about such a small oil sump. Half the engine cooling comes from the oil, and these things tend to get run pretty hard.

Anyone else worried about that, or is just me?

dogged 06-24-2008 08:14 PM

My Step father has been around high end boat engines for most of his 70 odd years and he swears the best way to break 'em in is to break 'em in like you intend to use them when they're broken in. I've only gotta hundred miles on mine so far, so I think I'll give it another hundred or two before I start winding it up... did my Bandit like that, the ol' lady's Monster and a coupla cages too. Like many members have said here... just don't drone along at the same RPM for miles and miles.

hacktracker 06-24-2008 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsmack (Post 4169)
I've been reading along, minding my own business as I fight off the urge to trade off my old, but pristine 91 ZR750 Zephyr... I noticed this thread and was somewhat amazed to read that the total capacity of the Versys crankcase is only 2 Qts?

Maybe it's just me, but I'm a little nervous about such a small oil sump. Half the engine cooling comes from the oil, and these things tend to get run pretty hard.

Anyone else worried about that, or is just me?

No worries, the whole engine/gearbox holds about 2.5 quarts, you only get 2 in an oil/filter change. Remember, it's a small (well, maybe medium) displacement parallel twin.

If you get one, just relax and enjoy the bike. It is a wonderful motorcycle!

antman325 06-24-2008 10:49 PM

I now have 152 miles on my week old V and I run it between 4 and 5k. After a trip to Deals Gap this weekend (can't wait to hit the Gap on this bike!!!), I'll do the 600 mile svc, then I plan on running it between 6 and 7k until 1000 miles. Then its a final oil change and rock and roll!
BTW, I've never had so much fun breaking in a bike. The V is AWESOME:thumb:

bear 06-25-2008 12:38 AM

just relax, guys!! I now have 2132 miles on my V. I love every minute on the bike. I run 6-8000 rpm all the time. It sounds so sweet. i've hit the high rpm during brake-in a few times and seems to be running fine. Kawasakis are built to take the abuse. Like most women, she likes it rough every now and again.

jeff1216 07-08-2008 03:51 PM

I have owned 15-18 brand new bikes right off the show room .. I broke this one in the same as the others ... I beat the living snot out of it from mile 1. have never had engine failure.... Never had a bike burn any oil .. And I usually make more peak HP than the guys who baby there ride. ... I break them in the way I am gonna ride em.

kanarinac76 01-04-2009 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StonedGP (Post 4046)
the best advice is to change that factory fish oil after the first 50 miles or so with a good non synthetic. Switch to a partial synthetic after 1500 miles or so.

i strongly recommend not to do so, at least not in first 3-400 miles!!! this factory oil has it's purporse (to accumulate all dirt in engine, including small metal parts). it is graded to fulfill this task to the best!

tomla 01-04-2009 01:37 PM

the reason the factory says to take it easy is heat build up on all the parts wearing in...you don't want to glaze the cyl. surfaces, and yet, it's cylinder pressure that's going to seat the rings. repeated acceleration and decelerations work best...you get high pressures, but with a cooling off period in between. the factory doesn't want folks to go out and hold it at 8k rpm for an hour, you know what I'm saying. so run it hard, but not continously hard. hey, riding like a squid is useful in this circumstance.

hacktracker 01-04-2009 06:35 PM

IMHO...the factory says take it easy so customers don't go out and hurt themselves with a motorcycle they just bought and may not be familiar with.


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