X300 Burning Oil/ Dishonest Dealer / All is Good - Page 2 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Versys-X 300 General Discussion Please post any 2017+ Kawasaki Versys-X 300 related topics that DO NOT fit into any of the other topics here.

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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxHouben View Post
Why would I be spamming???? That makes zero sense. You want my social also? Very rude. My username is literally my name I live in Davis California and PCP motorsports in Sacramento that sold me the bike told me that is Exactly what Kawasaki told them, that this bike is prone to burning oil. I seriously just want help understanding my new Bike and also if I should use full synthetic. You can watch this post all you want, I have no idea why someone would waste their time making something up like this, that is silly my friend. I am typing off my phone so I made a few spelling errors big whoop buddy. Goodness gracious

Sincerely,

Max Houben DM if you want my number buddy
From my position, you may find it hard to believe but we have had people copy something very similar, I viewed and quoted Randy's post about a joke ( this kind of set off alarm bells), you will notice the post was after all others by me and I did say Don't take it the wrong way but,. What you don't know is I also looked at your public profile before I posted, I found nothing there, the fact is after 2 posts and 48 hours anyone including spammers can post anywhere with their redirect on selling. So Fastoman apologized,(when I make a mistake I prefer to apologize within the same thread so all can view, please accept my apology) and the fact is 75% of new members post once and never post a second time or post days or weeks later. So having 3 posts all the same day put a alert in my mind. Obviously from reading your post you are upset, my post appears to have worked as it is clear your are a legit member. https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ber-intro.html please read
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 09:22 PM
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did you ever figure out your issue? I have the 17 x300 and just noticed that the inspection window was showing no oil. There was no light on the dash. The bike is at about 5k miles and I did the prescribed maintenance, as per the manual. I had to add a quart of oil to it, which, I must say surprised me. I know that all the literature always states that you should check oil before every ride, but I'm seriously concerned as I didn't expect to have to add oil between changes on a brand new bike
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 02:03 PM
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Serious Problem / Low Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by sasha View Post
did you ever figure out your issue? I have the 17 x300 and just noticed that the inspection window was showing no oil. There was no light on the dash. The bike is at about 5k miles and I did the prescribed maintenance, as per the manual. I had to add a quart of oil to it, which, I must say surprised me. I know that all the literature always states that you should check oil before every ride, but I'm seriously concerned as I didn't expect to have to add oil between changes on a brand new bike
As in the title, I own the 650 Versys, my first a 07 and now a 2015. The Versys holds; Capacity: 2,3 litre (Dry fill), Capacity: 1,8 litre (Service fill), Filter capacity: 0,2 litre ... . Putting in a quart of oil is a serious problem. My 2015 is at 28,000 KM , what goes in is exactly the same amount that comes out, roughly maximum distance is 9,000 KM, my usual change is between 5,000 and 6,000 KM.
Also I lube my chain at 500 KM which is usually a day ride for me, I use trip A and Trip B for logging distance on chain lube, I also carry a can of chain saver and my prop stand as there are days I have hit over 900 KM, so at a rest / lunch stop I lube my chain.
My point of bringing the chain lube up is, I am able to view the oil level at the same time, so basically I have either viewed the oil level using my pit stand when I got home , or when I use my prop stand on those days over 500 KM, so basically the oil level is viewed on every ride before or during. Since others have described similar problems, I may move posts into a new stuck thread, failing to monitor oil level isn't grounds to go after warranty with Kawasaki, remember , your motor fails with no oil in it, try explaining that to Kawasaki, however if you go through a 0.5 liter of oil every 1000 KM you should be contacting Kawasaki .

Last edited by onewizard; 09-02-2019 at 02:12 PM.
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 12:41 PM
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X300 Burning Oil/ Dishonest Dealer / All is Good

I received a PM today, all is good, I edited out two posts , now that I understand this member is a young inexperienced motorcycle rider. After some thought I got a little upset that he was taken advantage of by the dealer he purchased this bike from. Originally it appeared like he was a spammer, now that I know he was using his phone, I know the difficulties in correcting mistakes on a android system. Like most post on this forum, there are usually quite a few experienced members willing to give advice on short notice, fortunately there are a number of long time members that know me and make corrections.

So here is the PM with some editing, bottom line the motor needed to be rebuilt under warranty, thankfully the combined message of this thread prompted @MaxHouben to seek a professional mechanic and have it fixed;

Thank you! You are awesome bud and yes I got it all figured out. The bike was most likely not broken in correctly, I got it with 300 miles on it and I think the shop knew that this is the dealer I bought it at and they were basically bending me over. Long story short, found a legit mechanic and got the entire engine rebuilt under warranty. Thanks for all your help!

Last edited by fasteddiecopeman; 09-09-2019 at 01:23 PM.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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I did figure this out. Bikes engine was totally bad and probably broke in wrong ( I bought it with 300 miles on it) long story short I got it to a new mechanic and the entire engine had to be rebuilt and it was covered under warranty. Now I know, these nice little bikes Burn about No oil!!! Lol so like these guys said, if you are burning or losing oil, usually something is terribly wrong....
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 12:53 PM
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1qt every 500 miles seems like it would cause other noticeable issues which is strange nothing else was reported as being wrong initially. Sounds like a full rebuild was the right way to go.

I got curious about this issue as I have been considering a VX-300 to replace my KLR. Looking through Ninja 300 forums via Google, there are multiple threads about that engine burning oil, not as quickly as 1qt/500mi but it does not seem like a super rare issue. I am assuming it is the same motor, someone correct me if I am wrong.

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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 01:41 PM
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When I hear "burning" oil I think of leaky piston rings.In an old engine it would signal rebuild time.In a new engine it would point toward poor breaking in like was stated. On a smaller engine like the 300 possibly revving too high too soon for an extended period in the break in, something like trying to keep up on the freeway. Any old car that Ive had that burned oil meant seeing a bluish tinge from the exhaust or real smoke. I had a beater car like that,check the gas and top up the oil!
My 2015 650 is close to 60K now,no loss of oil at all. Always full synthetic after break in. The reason why we use synthetic is that it holds up better over time as far viscosity and the least amount of degradation of its "detergent" qualities between oil changes. So your motor oil characteristics are mostly the same or as close as they can get from start to finish. You still need to change it as over time it will collect grit from the wearing down of engine moving parts. When they design synthetic motor oil they get down to the molecular level and an important factor is to minimize friction(heat). Think of a microwave oven which excites the water molecules via a high sound frequency to create heat and think the opposite for what you want in motor oil. As I understand it anyways. I have heard car collectors say that synthetic is too efficient for the old seals and will leak instead of gumming up....
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 01:29 PM
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...I have heard car collectors say that synthetic is too efficient for the old seals and will leak instead of gumming up....
Yes - that's possible. In MY case, I ran either Mobil1 or Amsoil synth in ALL my vehicles, including these two, w/ NO leakage issues.





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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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When I hear "burning" oil I think of leaky piston rings.In an old engine it would signal rebuild time.In a new engine it would point toward poor breaking in like was stated. On a smaller engine like the 300 possibly revving too high too soon for an extended period in the break in, something like trying to keep up on the freeway. Any old car that Ive had that burned oil meant seeing a bluish tinge from the exhaust or real smoke. I had a beater car like that,check the gas and top up the oil!
My 2015 650 is close to 60K now,no loss of oil at all. Always full synthetic after break in. The reason why we use synthetic is that it holds up better over time as far viscosity and the least amount of degradation of its "detergent" qualities between oil changes. So your motor oil characteristics are mostly the same or as close as they can get from start to finish. You still need to change it as over time it will collect grit from the wearing down of engine moving parts. When they design synthetic motor oil they get down to the molecular level and an important factor is to minimize friction(heat). Think of a microwave oven which excites the water molecules via a high sound frequency to create heat and think the opposite for what you want in motor oil. As I understand it anyways. I have heard car collectors say that synthetic is too efficient for the old seals and will leak instead of gumming up....



Exactly, I found out the lady who had it first took it on a two hour ride first thing to where she works in SF so she sat on the freeway with a 300cc engine and probably tacked 9000 rpm the whole way. I know a lot about cars but knew nothing about breaking in a bike, so when the salesman told me the story of why it had 300 miles on it I thought nothing of it. Now I Know their garage knew the engine needed to be rebuilt and for whatever dumb reason they would rather screw me over and try and make me look bad then treating their customer with respect and owning up to their mistake. Now I am telling everyone that PCP motorsports in Sacramento is one of the biggest motorcycle dealerships is straight garbage and to never take your bike there. They tried to blame me for not keeping the oil full even though I was adding a bunch and had them changing the oil early, they also tried to throw me under the bus with Kawasaki and my expensive five year warranty they sold me. It is just sad that a place that would of gotten paid to fix that bike did this instead of acting like I would figure a place of that stature would. Always, stay away from PCP!!! Good times Kawasaki is the way to go.....

Thanks,

Max Houben
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