Baby Versys fully LEDed! - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Versys-X 300 General Discussion Please post any 2017+ Kawasaki Versys-X 300 related topics that DO NOT fit into any of the other topics here.

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Unread 10-29-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Red face Baby Versys fully LEDed!

After a lot of trial and error I have finally managed to convert all lighting in the Versys to LED. Here's what you'll need:

H4 headlight LED bulb
Two running light LED bulbs (T10) cold white color
Four indicator light LED bulbs (T10) amber color
One tail/brake light LED bulb (BAY15D/1157) white color
One license plate LED panel (with a T10 plug)
LED flasher relay

What the challenges were:
The headlight must have enough power and a good light pattern.
There is very little space in the indicator light housings. This means that long/thick led bulbs are out of the question. This has the side effect of not being able to accommodate light bulbs that have built-in resistors to avoid flickering/fast flashing. Hence the LED flasher relay.
The tail/brake light needs to be bright enough and the difference in light intensity between the two modes quite evident. Kawasaki has made us the favor of using a red plastic cover for the tail light, hence the choice of a white bulb. It's difficult to find a red light bulb that is bright enough for tail light operation and the brake light being much brighter to simulate the 5W/21W incandescent light operation.

I will provide links to all the bulbs I have bought, since it's quite an adventure to find the right ones (biggest problem was mediocre light power and size)

The headlight bulb
The specific bulb that I used is no longer available (has been superseded I guess) but it's a Nighteye 20W bulb (Just another Chinese brand). You can find zillions of similar bulbs in the market. I didn't want to spend a fortune, that's why I didn't go for a respectable brand (like Cyclops). This was actually a set for a car so I am left with a spare in case it dies. The specific one is what I would call "just powerful enough". It gives a very nice pattern, it gives enough light to make commuting during the night safe but I would not recommend it for travelling. I use the bike for commuting within the city limits only, so currently it's enough. But I would definitely upgrade to a more powerful version if I wanted to be more confident. It's by no means unsafe but I always feel that I don't have enough lighting power. Nobody has flashed me for being annoyed by the pattern but I would suggest to lower the beam just a little to be on the safe side. The width of the beam is excellent. Whatever you choose, don't go for a bulb that has a built-in cut off cap in front of the lens or the fan like this one. It won't fit in the housing, since the headlight already has a cover cap that cannot be removed unless you open the headlight assembly. No need to do that of course. Luckily, there is ample space behind the headlight to accommodate bulbs with big coolers/fans etc. However, the installation needs to be done with the headlight being off the bike (yes, you need to take off all the panels to take the headlight off the bike and I know it's a pain but it's better than trying to fit the bulb while the headlight is on the bike, trust me). This specific bulb I used, lets you separate the actual bulb from the whole bulb assembly, so you can achieve two things: proper alignment of the beam by rotating the bulb on the assembly (I didn't need to do that, it was perfectly straight from the start) and retain the rubber dust cap without having to cut it to fit the bulb assembly. Very convenient. Here is one that is a bit more powerful but exactly the same design as the one I have installed (pardon the greek site, couldn't find the exact one somewhere else). As you can see this specific design with the three small leds for each beam (and the same on the other side) are the best design since it accurately simulates the size and position of the filament in an incandescent bulb. I have seen others with four leds (which hints to being a bit more powerful) and I would definitely go for ZES (or Luxeon) led diodes, as they seem to be the cutting edge technology at the moment. That's another good example.

The running lights
This is plain simple. Any T10 led bulb (like these) will do.

The indicator lights
You need to get a LED flasher, to replace the OEM one. The one I used is this. It's dirt cheap, so you can buy more than one if you feel it's low quality, it has the two pin plug required and it works perfectly. You can leave the incandescent bulbs on the bike and it will work equally well. You are of course missing the hint that a bulb is dead because there is no hyperflashing anymore. But you should do your daily check of your lights anyway.

The bulbs I used for the indicator lights are these. I ordered them because the seller portrayed them (still does) as flicker free but it's BS. Regardless, I got 10 pieces for peanuts as you can see, half of which I got back after a dispute. They are just enough bright. I am expecting those now to test. I will post back when I receive them.

As a sidenote, you may be able to change the relay just by removing the seat (it's near the fuse box on the left side of the frame) but it's probably much easier to remove the left plastic panel.

The tail/brake bulb
The one I used is this. It is white but since the plastic cover of the tail light is red you don't need to worry. I found this specific bulb to function exactly like the original in terms of performance.

The license plate bulb
I got one of those for the license plate, the reason being that the socket is installed vertically for some reason. So if you get one of these, they shine to the left and to the right and not downwards where the license plate is and the light gets lost in the housing. Similarly, the ones with a cylindrical shape waste all the light that goes to the left, right and up, since there is no reflector in the housing.

As you can see, the money spent is VERY little (only real cost was the headlight). There are no errors whatsoever on the dash from the conversion. Feel free to give your suggestions and/or experiences.
Regards

Ride safe
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Unread 10-29-2018, 11:40 PM
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You should use a red LED behind the Red lens. The red lens filters out all colors that are not red, so the actual red effect is less than if you used a red LED. This might explain it better.
https://betterautomotivelighting.com...-should-i-use/

I built LED brake arrays for a few of my bikes. I just bought one of these, Iím impressed with the brightness at 12V, going to build it into the stock tail/brake light housing on my dualsport. You can get similar smaller ones on eBay too https://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Brigh...D/171416033519
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Unread 10-30-2018, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattR302 View Post
You should use a red LED behind the Red lens. The red lens filters out all colors that are not red, so the actual red effect is less than if you used a red LED. This might explain it better.
https://betterautomotivelighting.com...-should-i-use/
That is true in theory (and in practice of course), however the difference between the two is one I could not perceive. What's more, I could not find any red bulb that has a significant difference in light output between the two states (brake on/brake off), which could pose a danger. I'm always looking for ways to improve the lighting, so if you happen to stumble upon a red bulb that is robust and intense enough by all means share it (that does not cost a fortune that is )

Thanks for the panel link

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Unread 10-30-2018, 08:34 AM
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We need pictures or else it's all bench racing.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Unread 10-30-2018, 10:09 AM
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2017 X 300 Versys

Quote:
Originally Posted by tzoykas View Post
After a lot of trial and error I have finally managed to convert all lighting in the Versys to LED. Here's what you'll need:

H4 headlight LED bulb
Two running light LED bulbs (T10) cold white color
Four indicator light LED bulbs (T10) amber color
One tail/brake light LED bulb (BAY15D/1157) white color
One license plate LED panel (with a T10 plug)
LED flasher relay
It has been mentioned before about trying to dim or change the brilliance of a LED, there is a fine line were the LED emits light and were it reaches full brilliance and then were the magic smoke escapes; below is a example of achieving this, adding a blocking diode to the circuit, you can have a dimmed tail light then full brilliance bypassing the dimming module .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-3V-5V-12V...vVo:rk:39:pf:0

I realize this is a X300 we are talking about, however I can say that I have converted my 2015 650 ABS Versys headlight, twice converted my low beam to LED, I can tell you it is impossible with the reflector of the 2015 and newer to have the same beam pattern as incandescent . Here is the thread,and yes if I was delivering pizza my low beam is ideal using the LED bulb, or if I was trying to direct a plane to land again ideal, comparing my headlight to the Denali , well I would be better off turning my low beam off and buying another Denali if it was the road I wanted to see.In this post I mention to change only the low beam if it is wattage reduction you are doing it for.
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...=led+headlight
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Unread 10-30-2018, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BLACK DOG View Post
We need pictures or else it's all bench racing.
Will do sometime soon.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Unread 10-31-2018, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK DOG View Post
We need pictures or else it's all bench racing.
OR you can ADD LEDs for the running lights and brake lights like this:

1st - NO lights on;
2nd - tail-lights ONLY, ON; and
3rd - tail-lights AND brake lights ON.

PRETTY hard to miss them.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1-no lightscopy.jpg (44.8 KB, 82 views)
File Type: jpg 2-tails ONLYcopy..jpg (45.8 KB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg 3-tails- brakescopy..jpg (43.1 KB, 72 views)
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Unread 11-13-2018, 11:34 AM
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Used a 48 chip Red led for the brake. Think it was a Superbright product.
Tried some lesser chips and not bright enough for me in running mode.

IMO, turn signals not worth the effort, saves no amperage when converting to Leds.

Check/adjust the headlight aim when switching to led. I forgot and it was too high.
Difficult trying to adjust when everything (plastics) are re-installed.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Unread 11-14-2018, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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I agree to most of your statements @wheels2ride but if amperage is in question the only real gain is from the headlights. Everything else is purely cosmetic. Which is what my intention was (headlight excluded). As for the aiming mechanism, I cannot understand why they make it so complicated.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Unread 11-14-2018, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by tzoykas View Post
I agree to most of your statements @wheels2ride but if amperage is in question the only real gain is from the headlights. Everything else is purely cosmetic. Which is what my intention was (headlight excluded). As for the aiming mechanism, I cannot understand why they make it so complicated.
I will politely disagree about amperage, the city lights are 5 watt on the 650, not sure about the X300, but my total wattage reduction was a minimum 8 to 10 watts going to the Philips. And more importantly this is continuous watts. As to signal lights, my front signals are yellow superbright led and exceed the lumen output by at least 150% of the incandescent ( not changed for wattage but visibility).
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Unread 11-15-2018, 10:06 AM
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Turnsignals: If you add resistors then there is no amperage gain. You must install a different blinker for Leds.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Unread 11-15-2018, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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I will politely disagree about amperage, the city lights are 5 watt on the 650, not sure about the X300, but my total wattage reduction was a minimum 8 to 10 watts going to the Philips. And more importantly this is continuous watts. As to signal lights, my front signals are yellow superbright led and exceed the lumen output by at least 150% of the incandescent ( not changed for wattage but visibility).
I don't disagree with that at all. I was just implying that 5W compared to 55W is "a small" gain. Every little helps but as you said, every small light getting converted to LED vastly improves the visibility, not the amperage. I am of course talking about the constant lighting. If you get a snapshot of the wattage when you have applied the brakes and the indicators are blinking then you have e temporary 55+5+21+5+5+5 Watts with incandescent. With LEDs this drops to (more or less) 25+2+5+2+.5+2 watts.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK DOG View Post
We need pictures or else it's all bench racing.
Long overdue pictures
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P2_IMG_20190507_200745.jpg (20.2 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg P2_IMG_20190511_223405.jpg (9.5 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg P2_IMG_20190507_200728.jpg (18.7 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg P2_IMG_20190507_200642.jpg (16.9 KB, 18 views)

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OR you can ADD LEDs for the running lights and brake lights like this:

1st - NO lights on;
2nd - tail-lights ONLY, ON; and
3rd - tail-lights AND brake lights ON.

PRETTY hard to miss them.
Pretty big and bright. no one will miss you..
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Pretty big and bright. no one will miss you..
That was the point

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Pretty big and bright. no one will miss you..
I hope that EVERYONE misses you!
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 01:19 PM
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Nice. Thanks for the pictures. You're motivating me to do the same to mine. I mean, wouldn't it save power and help me add a set of strong fog lights and stress the stator less because there is less power draw with all the LEDs vs bulbs?

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 07:45 PM
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3 Wire Flasher / 2 Wire Flasher ?

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Nice. Thanks for the pictures. You're motivating me to do the same to mine. I mean, wouldn't it save power and help me add a set of strong fog lights and stress the stator less because there is less power draw with all the LEDs vs bulbs?

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I clicked on a previous post link to a Ebay China flasher. I have what I recommend in the How To forum under LED light signal conversion. The one I looked at had a 150 watt maximum rating for a 2 wire flasher, this is something I would never recommend and felt a explanation why might help others. First note my photo of the 3 wire flasher, note it has a 150 Watt rating but also a 0.1 amp rating which is 100 milliamp, since I am discussing the 3 wire flasher, very simple to hook up, there is the original positive feed to the relay, the wire going to the signal switch and all you do is add a ground. The difference is the voltage in and voltage out is almost identical , that 0.1 amp is a minimum value it needs to start the clock or time to turn off.

2 wire flasher, I highlighted two areas as they are important, the first is voltage in is at least 1.5 volts greater than voltage out ( or explaining it differently, the voltage out will be at least 1.5 volts lower than your battery / charging system) on the two wire flasher, the flash rate is fixed as the design provides a minimum voltage to operate the circuit, there is no mention of minimum current, trust me, if you switch to 100% LED signal lights it may not work. The reason I mention current, the higher the current the greater is the voltage drop, that voltage drop is the energy required to operate the relay or switching device, that energy is fixed, only two ways of meeting that energy required, increase the voltage drop or increase the current, since we are talking using on LED lights, we know the current will be less or that is the reason for change, therefore our only option is to increase voltage drop. There is a second style of 2 wire flasher that uses a normally open contact, typical energy for a coil is a minimum of 0.6 watts, this style has next to no voltage drop but is very dependent on the load wattage as the circuit uses itself as a voltage drop to build up a charge, that can energize the relay and use it's built in timed on circuit. Yes there may be more confusion now than ever , my money is on the 3 wire flasher that has a timed adjustment.
Many get flustered when the number of wires are different from original , I bought two 3 wire flashers, one was fixed flash rate, that one is sitting in my parts box someplace, the adjustable one has about 5000 KM on it.

One thing I didn't mention, this 3 wire flasher is adjustable for flash rate, I think I paid $3 for it, I could have the lights stay on/ cycle on, for something like 10 or 15 seconds, independent of current
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 08:22 PM
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Stator Loading

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Originally Posted by Jake Wheelie View Post
Nice. Thanks for the pictures. You're motivating me to do the same to mine. I mean, wouldn't it save power and help me add a set of strong fog lights and stress the stator less because there is less power draw with all the LEDs vs bulbs?

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Bad news, absolutely no advantage unless you convert to a series regulator, I mentioned something about the appearance that Kawasaki is switching to series regulators, every time I ask someone it kind of fades away. I am looking for someone with a 2015 or newer V1000 that has a meter that reads volts AC. I am fairly sure that the Ninja 1000 has a series regulator , the local guy kind of vanished after I helped with his heat/ engine T stat problem, the regulator looks exactly like the Polaris 4016868. It really is a simple test, if someone is interested PM me.
So quick explanation, at idle the stator is able to produce about 110% of base load https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ator+base+load

That 110% works out to about 48% of maximum stator output. So this is what happens, a shunt regulator, somewhere around 3000 RPM and higher the OEM stator and shunt regulator runs at 336 watts , compare that to my post in that link using now my Polaris 4016868 ( removed my CompuFire series regulator ,as if I recommend something, I want to run it through it's paces). So my 2015 650ABS at 3000 RPM my stator is producing 162 Watts, in fact my stator is producing 162 Watts at idle, therefore the copper magnet wire heats up to a load of 162 watts and never sees a increase except when the cooling fan comes on. The OEM stator and regulator sees 336 watts every time the engine hits 3000RPM or higher then drops to about 180 watts at idle. The magnet wire heats and cools this is expansion and contraction, which causes the insulation on the magnet wire to wear and eventually cause a phase to phase short, a phase to ground short or shorted turns, all lead to a rapid failure of the charging system.

Why the difference at idle, once the battery is charged, the difference of my 162 watts and the shunt regulator of 18 watts higher is the shunt activates at or above 14.5 to 15 Volts DC, that additional 18 watts is the energy shorted out to maintain 14.5 volts DC or less than 15 VDC. My original CompuFire regulator that was in my 07 and then my 2015 maintained voltage at a rock solid 14.200 VDC, the Polaris switches at a much higher frequency and some what we would call harmonic distortion occurs , I saved a couple waveforms comparing VAC using Fluke meters and a THS720P tektronix scope for verifying a series regulator, the Polaris allows some spiking of around 14.3 to 14.4 VDC., still well below the shunt regulator.

I would hope by now, I have explained enough ways that even my dead grandmother could of understood , and back to the beginning I am 95% certain the V1000 2015 and newer is a series regulator, I just need to test one to prove it.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Unread Today, 12:03 AM
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So changing the flasher or turning my regulator into a series regular would be the way to go when using LEDS? I put all-in-one LED turn signals on the Ninja 500 with one of the flashers that are supposed to work with LEDS and they work but the front flasher stays lit all the time although it does flash.
So then if I use a series regulator I can save power then? I read both posts and am going to go over them again. The whole point I thought to LEDS was to save power although I know they can be seen from further away. I'm also interested in your previous two posts because I need to get antoher headlight the lights up more distance ahead of the bike. So far I haven't replaced any of the lights on my Versys 300 but I did add that 12v dual USB socket.

Thanks for all this advice BTW.

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Last edited by Jake Wheelie; Today at 12:05 AM.
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