Just brought it home !!! - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Versys-X 300 General Discussion Please post any 2017+ Kawasaki Versys-X 300 related topics that DO NOT fit into any of the other topics here.

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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Just brought it home !!!

Hi,

I just brought home my new X-300 and even though it was only a 2.5 mile ride it was really nice. My wife even commented on how quiet it is and it rode very smooth. I will ride it to work tomorrow on the interstate, about 8 miles, and see how it does on the highway. I will probably just go 55 mph and stay in the right lane in order to try to keep it the rpm's down a bit. I had a CTX700 DCT before this and the DCT is a great transmission but the 300 shifts very easy and smooth. I will add more tomorrow when I get to ride to work and back, and I'm sure I will take a detour, but I'm sure I will really enjoy the ride. I will put a pic on later but I bought the charcoal color 2017 and it looks pretty cool.

I already ordered the CalSci windshield and a top case and they should be shipped soon and I will install them when I get them.
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Ride safe,

JeffR

CalSci Windshield X-Large
52L Top Case
15 Tooth Counter Sprocket
1" Bar risers
Ergo Tall Seat
575 miles so far on bike
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 08:57 PM
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Congratulations on the new ride!
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 09:49 PM
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Congrats!

Detours are what makes riding fun. Go for it.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 04:16 PM
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Congratulations!!
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I just rode home on the interstate 8 miles each way and it did great. I also just started a thread with my new X-Large CalSci windshield and it worked great in the city. All I heard was engine.

Ride safe,

JeffR

CalSci Windshield X-Large
52L Top Case
15 Tooth Counter Sprocket
1" Bar risers
Ergo Tall Seat
575 miles so far on bike
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 09:26 AM
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Congrats , did you get a ABS unit?
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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CA200,

No, I did not get the ABS unit. I'm not an aggressive rider anymore so I just decided to get the regular bike. I plan on getting the 15 tooth counter sprocket and I have read that it seems that the bikes with the ABS are more sensitive to some light going on if they gear it too high.

Ride safe,

JeffR

CalSci Windshield X-Large
52L Top Case
15 Tooth Counter Sprocket
1" Bar risers
Ergo Tall Seat
575 miles so far on bike
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 11:22 AM
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Here's a link to the way I "broke-in" all THREE of my v650s, on the drive home from the dealer:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Quite a lot of us do that.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffR!1234 View Post
CA200,

No, I did not get the ABS unit. I'm not an aggressive rider anymore so I just decided to get the regular bike. I plan on getting the 15 tooth counter sprocket and I have read that it seems that the bikes with the ABS are more sensitive to some light going on if they gear it too high.
You will not have any ECU fault issues if you stick to a 15T countershaft sprocket. Any greater causes engine fault light and gear indicator issues.
And I agree with Fasteddie. Obeying the recommended 4,000rpm limit even causes the engine to lug at times. Although I do not run bikes in like I stole them I use part throttle allowing the engine to rev.

It was revved to the redline in the factory.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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fasteddie,

I have read that before and I have broken my bikes in a bit over what the factory says and things have been good. I take the advice of 'just don't stay at the same rpm all the time'. There is no way I could ride this bike to work on the interstate since it revs so high. I just ride it at 50, 55 and 60 mph and go back and forth so alternate the rpms'. But I have heard since I was 15 ....to break it in like you want it. If you want a fast bike than you break it in fast.

Brockie,

I will get the 15 tooth sprocket and have them put it on, along with the bar risers/offset device, when they do my 600 mile service. I really don't do any service anymore in life. I will put things on like windshields, top cases etc. but I don't do service. When I get the 15 tooth sprocket on I will write something up about rpms'. I'm going to ride today and find out what rpm's are at different speeds and will post that today. Then when I get the 15 tooth installed I will do the same thing for comparision. I have to say that the power of this bike on the interstate really surprised me. I was thinking "Aw, it's just a little 300cc bike that will just get me there". But I'm impressed with the 40 miles I have put on it. I'm up to 56 mpg now and I think the dealer rode it in their parking lot and the mpg was at 16. So maybe they were riding it hard in their parking lot for a few runs.

Thanks for the advice guys.
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Ride safe,

JeffR

CalSci Windshield X-Large
52L Top Case
15 Tooth Counter Sprocket
1" Bar risers
Ergo Tall Seat
575 miles so far on bike
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Brockie View Post
And I agree with Fasteddie. Obeying the recommended 4,000rpm limit even causes the engine to lug at times. Although I do not run bikes in like I stole them I use part throttle allowing the engine to rev.

It was revved to the redline in the factory.
Brockie,

One of the things that the saleperson told me was that Kawasaki sent him to Japan to see the factory and he said that every bike is taken to the dyno and then the track. This is done before they put the throttle cable is connected to the speeddometer. So it seems they kind of break it in at the factory. I was told when my wife and I each bought a Nissan car, that they run the engines for a long time and that is why the first service is at 5,000 miles. It is already broken in. But with engines nowadays it seems the machine-ing is has such close tolerances that they are already broken in. Not like the bikes or cars from the 70's. (if you are old enough to know about that era).
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Ride safe,

JeffR

CalSci Windshield X-Large
52L Top Case
15 Tooth Counter Sprocket
1" Bar risers
Ergo Tall Seat
575 miles so far on bike
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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I will just add to this thread instead of starting different ones on my impressions on the 300. My wife and I just came back from a short 5-6 mile ride in the city and I'm impressed with this bike. I'm 210 and my wife is average weight for a woman who is mid 50's and the bike rode better than I thought. I have to get used to shifting again, since I had the CTX DCT for my last bike, but this 300 really has some power to it. The CTX had about 45 ft lbs of torque and this bike only has 20 so I was surprised it did so well. My wife doesn't really like to ride on the interstate too much so we stick to slower roads that will keep the mph to around 55 or so. But I'm sure this bike will do great for the 2 of us since we don't really travel or do day long rides.

She also mentioned that the seat was pretty hard so maybe I will have to get an aftermarket seat. I think it is hard as well but I did put a pad on it tonight and it was much nicer. BUt I will just add to this thread instead of starting separate threads for updates, just in case anyone is interested or would just like to read what I think. But I have had 250cc bikes before and this seems to ride more like a 400-500cc bike IMO.

Ride safe,

JeffR

CalSci Windshield X-Large
52L Top Case
15 Tooth Counter Sprocket
1" Bar risers
Ergo Tall Seat
575 miles so far on bike
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-11-2018, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffR!1234 View Post
Brockie,

.... But with engines nowadays it seems the machine-ing is has such close tolerances that they are already broken in. Not like the bikes or cars from the 70's. (if you are old enough to know about that era).
It is still important to shine the main bearings big ends etc. but even more important to bed in the rings, so some planning for the first few hundred miles is still very important. As you say, running up and down through the gears and opening closing the throttle. Heat cycles are also important IMO. As I have said before I believe that the rpm bit is pasted straight out of the manual for a much larger machine.

And yes, young fella, I do remember my first bikes and cars - drum brakes and ignition points. Yuk. 1961 Suzuki 50 and a 1959 Ford Zephyr Mk2.
I also remember the first with disc brakes, and then electronic ignition. And I've still got a points file in my toolbox!
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-11-2018, 12:11 PM
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JeffR I think you will see about 500 rpm less rpm with the 15. I put the 16 tooth on the front of mine and I see about 6000 rpm at 55 (57 indicated ). Don't worry about brake in , pretty hard to mess that up. I am the other way around on my bikes . Once I buy them I don't let anyone else work on it but me. Been doing that for more then 40 years.
Kawasaki is a little nuts on torque specs. though. They want 90 Ft.lbs. on the sprocket nut.
That's nuts. Nothing on my Honda 1100 is that high. I just put it on as hard as I can and gave
it a couple blips with air gun.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-11-2018, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffR!1234 View Post
fasteddie,

I have read that before and I have broken my bikes in a bit over what the factory says and things have been good. I take the advice of 'just don't stay at the same rpm all the time'. There is no way I could ride this bike to work on the interstate since it revs so high. I just ride it at 50, 55 and 60 mph and go back and forth so alternate the rpms'. But I have heard since I was 15 ....to break it in like you want it. If you want a fast bike than you break it in fast....
I had a "Fuel-dragster" Triumph (back in the mid-'60s). IT got "broken-in" on its FIRST run down the quarter-mile, w/ revs OVER 7,000.

NEVER had an engine failure....

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffR!1234 View Post
I will just add to this thread instead of starting different ones on my impressions on the 300. My wife and I just came back from a short 5-6 mile ride in the city and I'm impressed with this bike. I'm 210 and my wife is average weight for a woman who is mid 50's and the bike rode better than I thought. I have to get used to shifting again, since I had the CTX DCT for my last bike, but this 300 really has some power to it. The CTX had about 45 ft lbs of torque and this bike only has 20 so I was surprised it did so well. My wife doesn't really like to ride on the interstate too much so we stick to slower roads that will keep the mph to around 55 or so. But I'm sure this bike will do great for the 2 of us since we don't really travel or do day long rides....
I had a Yamaha TT500 AND an SR500 way-back-when. BOTH were advertised as having 30 HP, and NOBODY thought that they weren't powerful enough for extended highway use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CA200 View Post
...Kawasaki is a little nuts on torque specs. though. They want 90 Ft.lbs. on the sprocket nut.
That's nuts. Nothing on my Honda 1100 is that high. I just put it on as hard as I can and gave
it a couple blips with air gun.
I suggest you get a torque-wrench and start using it - 90'/# is NOT much really, and what you detail that you do is probably WAY-Y-Y over 90!

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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-11-2018, 02:42 PM
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I do have torque wrench and could not get it to 90 - maybe when I was 60. I know I did not
get it anywhere near 90 ft.lbs. Which I still feel is nuts for sprocket nut with a bend washer
on it.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2018, 01:25 AM
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Kawasaki is full of contradictions. Like with the KDX200 Kawasaki has made every effort to shave off as much weight as possible. Welded on footpeg brackets and modest diameter non-critical nuts and bolts for instance.
That means be careful with those sockets and hex spanners.

How to torque that O-so-thin countershaft nut to 90 ft/lbs has me beat.

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2018, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
...I suggest you get a torque-wrench and start using it - 90'/# is NOT much really, and what you detail that you do is probably WAY-Y-Y over 90!...
Quote:
Originally Posted by CA200 View Post
I do have torque wrench and could not get it to 90 - maybe when I was 60. I know I did not get it anywhere near 90 ft.lbs. Which I still feel is nuts for sprocket nut with a bend washer on it.
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...How to torque that O-so-thin countershaft nut to 90 ft/lbs has me beat.
I just measured my Harbor-Freight 1/2" torque wrench from the CENTER of the half-inch square female bit that fits into your 27mm socket, to where the heel of my hand sits while I use that wrench - 15 inches - or 1.25 feet.

As 90 foot/pounds (ACTUALLY it's 90 pound/feet) - that is 90 pounds w/ a ONE foot "arm" to achieve the goal - and unless my math is wrong, w/ a 1.25 foot "arm" you need to apply ONLY 72 pounds of force at the end of a 1.25' lever to achieve the goal of 90#/'. I weigh 180#, so by 'leaning' into the wrench I can EASILY achieve the 90 that's required (and I am 74 years old, not in especially great shape...).

BTW - the consensus on this Forum, among those who HAVE removed their countershaft sprockets, seems to be that Ma Kawasaki has that "O-so-thin countershaft nut" torqued to a QUADRILLION pound/feet from the factory, certainly WELL above 90....

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Last edited by fasteddiecopeman; 02-12-2018 at 03:51 PM.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2018, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post

BTW - the consensus on this Forum, among those who HAVE removed their countershaft sprockets, seems to be that Ma Kawasaki has that "O-so-thin countershaft nut" torqued to a QUADRILLION pound/feet from the factory, certainly WELL above 90....

I'll agree with that. I needed a 1-metre steel pipe over my 1/2" power bar to loosen it, and then the inertia was so great it spun itself off and dropped on the floor. The problem for me was keeping the socket properly engaged on the very thin countershaft nut.

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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2018, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I just measured my Harbor-Freight 1/2" torque wrench from the CENTER of the half-inch square female bit that fits into your 27mm socket, to where the heel of my hand sits while I use that wrench - 15 inches - or 1.25 feet.

As 90 foot/pounds (ACTUALLY it's 90 pound/feet) - that is 90 pounds w/ a ONE foot "arm" to achieve the goal - and unless my math is wrong, w/ a 1.25 foot "arm" you need to apply ONLY 72 pounds of force at the end of a 1.25' lever to achieve the goal of 90#/'. I weigh 180#, so by 'leaning' into the wrench I can EASILY achieve the 90 that's required (and I am 74 years old, not in especially great shape...).
I am sure that the manufacturers take into account the leverage ratio when marking their torque wrenches, so I always set mine to 90 ft/lbs when the manual says 90 - or 72 ft/lbs when the manual says 72.
Never met anyone before who does different.
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