Another choice for sprocket gearing changes - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Versys-X 300 General Discussion Please post any 2017+ Kawasaki Versys-X 300 related topics that DO NOT fit into any of the other topics here.

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  • 2 Post By Pismocycleguy
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Another choice for sprocket gearing changes

Instead of messing around with trying to decrease the engine rpms by increasing the front sprocket teeth, or decreasing the rear sprocket teeth, (with very little range without screwing up the electronics), Iím simply starting off from a dead stop using 2nd gear when on a flatter hard surface. (Unless Iím on an steep incline or deep sand or mud). Using this method I donít have to shift so many times just to cross an intersection. Seems to work well for me and also save super low for off road travel.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 07:48 PM
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The "right" way is the way that works for you.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 08:28 PM
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Changed my rear sprocket to 43 teeth several years ago without screwing up the electronics. Apparently Kawasaki electronics are adaptable, at least those stuffed into my 2008 Gen One are - so far.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 09:21 PM
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I wouldn't call it an alternative to sprocket/gear changes in anyway because absolutely nothing has changed! You have just broadened the use of current gearing. You're not the only one that does this, I and many others do this as well.

The point of decreasing rpm's/taller gearing is primarily on the final gear ratio. What happens before final gear really doesn't matter except the duration in a given gear. This act does not change the final ratio what so ever.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 09:43 PM
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You can get yourself in a whole lot of trouble traveling TOO slow in loose conditions. The wheels are not turning fast enough to create the flywheel effect that keeps the bike upright, and you hit every bump and are more likely to stall on a lip or rock.
Only trials bikes are geared that low - and they do not travel on motorways. If you watch a trials competition you will see that most trials riders rarely use 1st gear anyway, they need to keep the momentum up to conquer those tricky tests. They ride the clutch in a higher gear.
That makes 1st gear useless for me and so I geared up.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 09:46 PM
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2017, 10:15 PM
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Ride slow and have lots of tip-overs - or ride faster and have the occasional crash.
Having the experience to judge when to go! ..... and when to whoa, makes all the difference.
You will never get up a greasy trail using 1st gear.

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2018, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arion View Post
Changed my rear sprocket to 43 teeth several years ago without screwing up the electronics. Apparently Kawasaki electronics are adaptable, at least those stuffed into my 2008 Gen One are - so far.
"...2008 gen One" - 2017 is gen One ??
This is the Versys-X 300 thread ;o)
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2018, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesper Hedegaard View Post
"...2008 gen One" - 2017 is gen One ??
This is the Versys-X 300 thread ;o)
I wasn't specific was I, and I didn't notice it was a n X300 thread. My humble apologies to everyone!! I shall whip myself mercilessly for an hour. Or maybe not.

My Gen One is a Versys 650, the fast red model even with a 43 tooth rear sprocket!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2018, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pismocycleguy View Post
Instead of messing around with trying to decrease the engine rpms by increasing the front sprocket teeth, or decreasing the rear sprocket teeth, (with very little range without screwing up the electronics), Iím simply starting off from a dead stop using 2nd gear when on a flatter hard surface. (Unless Iím on an steep incline or deep sand or mud). Using this method I donít have to shift so many times just to cross an intersection. Seems to work well for me and also save super low for off road travel.
To me this is a good solution, that ALSO leaves you w/ a LOWER gear for when the going-gets-tough, and you NEED that lower gear....

Ed
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2018, 04:11 PM
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I have been doing the same darn thing (skipping first) on pavement unless as you say it is an incline or off-road. Works great.

The only other time I use 1st is on some really tough sections of the fire roads when that low speed really helps. This bike goes where my V-Strom 1000 (525 lbs.) would be too fast in first and lay over from sheer weight. Light and very slow is very beneficial when you need it.

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Originally Posted by Pismocycleguy View Post
Instead of messing around with trying to decrease the engine rpms by increasing the front sprocket teeth, or decreasing the rear sprocket teeth, (with very little range without screwing up the electronics), I’m simply starting off from a dead stop using 2nd gear when on a flatter hard surface. (Unless I’m on an steep incline or deep sand or mud). Using this method I don’t have to shift so many times just to cross an intersection. Seems to work well for me and also save super low for off road travel.


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Last edited by SECoda; 01-01-2018 at 04:14 PM.
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