Kawasaki Versys Forum banner

Fuse/ X300 / Power Socket/ 12 volt/ Lighter Plug Style

44K views 123 replies 33 participants last post by  onewizard 
#1 ·
After finding a post about 650 Versys using bikemaster power outlets instead of Kawasaki DC outlets on one of these Versys forums, I decided to fit the $8 bikemaster outlet in the dash of my VX300 instead of the OEM unit. Had to extend the leads on the DC outlet to reach the bullet connectors under the dash but otherwise fit like OEM. Installed the outlet and the Kawasaki Accessory relay.
 

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#3 ·
I want to do the same to my X-300.

Where is the switched power connector?
Why is it necessary to install the Kawasaki power outlet relay? Surely this outlet will only be for phone/GPS/camera and a relay would be unnecessary?

Thanks, Brockie
 
#2 ·
I want to do the same to my X-300.

Where is the switched power connector?
Why is it necessary to install the Kawasaki power outlet relay? Surely this outlet will only be for phone/GPS/camera and a relay would be unnecessary?

Thanks, Brockie
 
#8 · (Edited)
That's what I use and it works great although I think it cost more than $8, still much cheaper than the Kawasaki one, although similar quality. I've also purchased sockets for $1 from EBay but the bike-master is higher quality and I has the leads and a line fuse built in. I drilled my dash with a 3.5cm bit. They have collar that tightens up to hold it in the hole. The leads connect direct to the battery.

It has a durable rubber cap to keep it covered when not in use. The socket has even filled with water when I left the bike parked overnight in a rainstorm with the cap off with no ill effect. Unsalted water (rain water) does not conduct electricity!

A switched power source can be advantageous if you have something with a parasitic power draw or something you might accidentally leave on and drain the battery but with a power socket there is no need for it to be switched. It will only draw power if something is plugged in. Being unswitched means you can used it while the key is out of the ignition, like charging a phone/gps or running an air compressor to fill the tires.

When you install the power socket, first check first that the placement will not interfere with the movement of the handlebars at full lock - sometimes USB adapters and the plugs that plug into them protrude a bit.
 
#18 ·
...Unsalted water (rain water) does not conduct electricity!....
I would NOT "bet-my-life" on that....

...I'm not sure if the bullet connectors are powered without the relay kit?...
On the 650 (mine is the '15 650LT), they are NOT powered w/out the relay kit.
 
#9 ·
...Installed the outlet and the Kawasaki Accessory relay.
...Where is the switched power connector?
Why is it necessary to install the Kawasaki power outlet relay?...
the relay is there to turn the outlet on and off with the ignition so it doesn't drain your battery :nerd:
On the V650 the relay goes behind the headlight (EASY to get to)



and it 'powers-up' the various wire-sets that Ma Kawi thoughtfully installed for us, altho' it ONLY allows 5 amps. Co$t me about $16 Canadian from my dealer.
 
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#17 ·
Installed one today made by Custom Accessories. Got it at O'reilly auto parts for about $12. Fit into the hole on the instrument panel snugly, and is held in with a threaded ring on the back. Also installed the factory relay kit (needed for the fog lights I installed at the same time). I'm not sure if the bullet connectors are powered without the relay kit?





 
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#24 · (Edited)
My switched power source.

When I enquired at Kawasaki about an OEM power outlet they said $210, I think because you need a power relay as well to light up the 300's accessory wiring.

Instead I went to an electronics store downunder called Jaycar (do you still have Tandy's) and bought a marine suitable outlet for $6.95.
I then probed with a meter and found switched wiring to the tail light. Australian regulations require hard wired head/tail lights.

The tail light plug is pictured below below. Red is power, Black/yellow stripe is earth. I used those crimp on splicers to avoid soldering or cutting at circle A. the other half of the plug is B.


Here is the finished connection with the blue splicing units tucked out of the way and with the plug reconnected.



Here is the plug in place. The hole was just a little tight so I opened it up a tad with a rat tail file. Note the second connection. I twisted the red and white wires from the tail light with the red and black wires from half of a SAE bullet type connector and soldered both pairs into the plugs that connect onto the power outlet. $3.45.
I will use the other half of the bullet connector, soldered to a wire-in 12v to 5v adaptor to mini USB ($19.95) which will be permanently wired to my fixed Mobius camera.





 
#62 ·
I guess I will tap the power in the back as you did for the Knight Riderz light bar in the back. I need the brake wire too.



When I enquired at Kawasaki about an OEM power outlet they said $210, I think because you need a power relay as well to light up the 300's accessory wiring.

Instead I went to an electronics store downunder called Jaycar (do you still have Tandy's) and bought a marine suitable outlet for $6.95.
I then probed with a meter and found switched wiring to the tail light. Australian regulations require hard wired head/tail lights.

The tail light plug is pictured below below. Red is power, Black/yellow stripe is earth. I used those crimp on splicers to avoid soldering or cutting at circle A. the other half of the plug is B.


Here is the finished connection with the blue splicing units tucked out of the way and with the plug reconnected.



Here is the plug in place. The hole was just a little tight so I opened it up a tad with a rat tail file. Note the second connection. I twisted the red and white wires from the tail light with the red and black wires from half of a SAE bullet type connector and soldered both pairs into the plugs that connect onto the power outlet. $3.45.
I will use the other half of the bullet connector, soldered to a wire-in 12v to 5v adaptor to mini USB ($19.95) which will be permanently wired to my fixed Mobius camera.





 
#25 ·
My switched power source.

When I enquired at Kawasaki about an OEM power outlet they said $210, I think because you need a power relay as well to light up the 300's accessory wiring.

Instead I went to an electronics store downunder called Jaycar (do you still have Tandy's) and bought a marine suitable outlet for $6.95.
I then probed with a meter and found switched wiring to the tail light. Australian regulations require hard wired head/tail lights.

The tail light plug is pictured below below. Red is power, Black/yellow stripe is earth. I used those crimp on splicers to avoid soldering or cutting at circle A. the other half of the plug is B.


Here is the finished connection with the blue splicing units tucked out of the way and with the plug reconnected.



Here is the plug in place. The hole was just a little tight so I opened it up a tad with a rat tail file. Note the second connection. I twisted the red and white wires from the tail light with the red and black wires from half of a SAE bullet type connector and soldered both pairs into the plugs that connect onto the power outlet. $3.45.
I will use the other half of the bullet connector, soldered to a wire-in 12v to 5v adaptor to mini USB ($19.95) which will be permanently wired to my fixed Mobius camera.





 
#26 · (Edited)
Thanks for this thread. It is so much easier when others have paved the way. :) I will follow Brockie's lead by using a switched wire since this will be a low power outlet for a phone and action camera. A 5A circuit should be sufficient. I did a Battery Tender lead direct to the battery for a compressor if needed and for the winter to keep the battery maintained although I tend to ride most of the year here unless it becomes arctic.
 
#27 ·
Thanks for this thread. It is so much easier when others have paved the way. :) I will follow Brockie's lead by using a switched wire since this will be a low power outlet for a phone and action camera. A 5A circuit should be sufficient. I did a Battery Tender lead direct to the battery for a compressor if needed and for the winter to keep the battery maintained although I tend to ride most of the year here unless it becomes arctic.
 
#29 ·
Well I was up at the dealer yesterday and they gave me the $18 relay for free for posting a positive review on them.

So now I have a relay and am about to install it. With the handlebar all of the way to right I have good access to the harness plug for the relay and the power outlet connectors (I have a bag of connectors). I can manipulate it with my fingers even. I just don't see the need to remove everything for this installation yet.... I guess my hands are small enough. I have avoided the disassembles before including removing the tank on my V-Strom on one wiring harness install. I also have a set of very long handled tools to help (but I can get my fingers on everything in this case). You also need a shorty Phillips (or better yet a long flex shaft Phillips) to get the 12v plug out. Wish me luck.


 
#28 · (Edited)
Well I was up at the dealer yesterday and they gave me the $18 relay for free for posting a positive review on them.

So now I have a relay and am about to install it. With the handlebar all of the way to right I have good access to the harness plug for the relay and the power outlet connectors (I have a bag of connectors). I can manipulate it with my fingers even. I just don't see the need to remove everything for this installation yet.... I guess my hands are small enough. I have avoided the disassembles before including removing the tank on my V-Strom on one wiring harness install. I also have a set of very long handled tools to help (but I can get my fingers on everything in this case). You also need a shorty Phillips (or better yet a long flex shaft Phillips) to get the 12v plug out. Wish me luck.


 
#32 · (Edited)
I didn't even need the flexible shaft on the Phillips I thought I would initially as the tabs on the metal piece behind the plastic piece bent easily with a needle nose. Much easier than I thought to remove.

There is more than enough clearance with the handlebar with things plugged in. That is a dual 2.4 A USB plug stuck into the 12v outlet. They have mini's that flush mount. This project cost me $12 and Kaw wants about $100 USD for their parts. No disassembly was required if you have small hands (actually my hands are pretty big). ;-)

You can get a these from bottom.

 
#33 ·
I didn't even need the flexible shaft on the Phillips I thought I would initially as the tabs on the metal piece behind the plastic piece bent easily with a needle nose. Much easier than I thought to remove.

There is more than enough clearance with the handlebar with things plugged in. That is a dual 2.4 A USB plug stuck into the 12v outlet. They have mini's that flush mount. This project cost me $12 and Kaw wants about $100 USD for their parts. No disassembly was required if you have small hands (actually my hands are pretty big). ;-)

You can get a these from bottom.

 
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