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Versys-X 300 General Discussion Please post any 2017+ Kawasaki Versys-X 300 related topics that DO NOT fit into any of the other topics here.

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post #61 of 80 (permalink) Old 03-12-2018, 08:33 PM
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Maybe some useful info.

The Kawasaki supplied AUX circuit (activated when you plug in the relay) goes back to a 5 AMP mini blade circuit fuse. The 5 AMP circuit can handle approximately 60 watts total. I intend to use one (not two) 2.1 AMP USB plug-ins and some 20 watt "see-me" LED lights (not true DRLs). This will keep the circuit from blowing the fuse. I would not install a larger fuse because you are entering the smoke/fire realm.

Heated grips all by themselves may be dicey on this 5 AMP circuit. I would run the correct stuff supplied from the grip manufacturer. Might want to consider LED head/brake/parking lites to gain back some total wattage for the heated grips. Turn signal LEDs, imo, are a poor return on investment.

Here is a neat reference for volt/watt/amps conversion .
Voltage current resistance and electric power general basic electrical formulas mathematical calculations calculator formula for power calculating energy work equation power law watts understandimg general electrical pie chart electricity calculation

P.S. ? Anyone know what the white twin barrel (next to the aux barrel connectors) connector is for ?

2017 Versys 300 ABS, the fastest one ... green
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post #62 of 80 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 06:40 PM
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I replaced the headlight and parking light with LEDS. Painted the white parking light yellow.
Looks good , don't know if the yellow paint will stay or melt off , lol.

Installed the relay , power socket and ran a pair of connectors for future LED see me lights.

This info may help.

I had the T-Rex engine guard and Ricochet skid plate already installed.
I did not remove the engine guard and removed all the tupperware.
W/S and front colored fascia is straight forward.
Black cowling:
Eight push pins, two black hex screws holding the silver panels on, two long silver bolts
in front center of headlight, two short silver bolts by the overflow radiator tank.

While testing the LED headlight, started the engine for a minute or two to turn on
the headlight. The brake side silver/green panel slid down and melted a bit on the
exhaust pipe ... duh.

OK, the re-install was frustrating so I removed the T-Rex engine guards.
The black cowling is tricky, start by aligning the horizontal tab, just above the headlight.
Get that right , then replace the two long silver bolts , about dead center of the headlight.
The rest you just snap, push into place. Replace the two silver short bolts bye the overflow
tank and evaporated canister. Now, align the silver/green panels and push them on.
The two long hex bolts hold the silver (side) panels to the frame.

Oh, somewhere I missed re-installing two push pins, somewhere in the middle of the black
cowling. Didn't take everything off to find out where. If I have a bad enough rattle I'll probably
do a re-do sometime in the future.

Parts diagram from Kawasaki
https://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/Parts...2017/KLE300CHF

Download the parts diagrams to a PDF, they are truncated online.
The two extra/missed push pins are near the turn signals upper black plastic to front cowling..
Part numbers 92039

If I have to get to the wiring, imo, I can do it without taking off the engine guards. Had it in pieces for a while awaiting electrical parts and forgot (age?) some of the tricky stuff.

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Last edited by wheels2ride; 03-25-2018 at 02:31 AM. Reason: clarification
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post #63 of 80 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheels2ride View Post

Oh, somewhere I missed re-installing two push pins, somewhere in the middle of the black
cowling. Didn't take everything off to find out where. If I have a bad enough rattle I'll probably
do a re-do sometime in the future.
I have the same two push pins spare as well. And two thin screws. I'll be more careful next time. No rattles.

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post #64 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-13-2018, 07:52 PM
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I want to install a Powerlet plug somewhere near or in the dash, but not necessarily in the stock hole. In fact, If I could mount it in an alternate location I could install a stock style plug in addition to my Powerlet plug. This is what I had in mind.

Powerlet Socket Kit - 36" Harness - Powerlet Products

Is 36" long enough to go from the dash to the battery? I want to direct wire it so I can use it as a charging port.
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post #65 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-13-2018, 09:42 PM
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Just watch the total amps limit if you are using the power in the front.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jspringator View Post
I want to install a Powerlet plug somewhere near or in the dash, but not necessarily in the stock hole. In fact, If I could mount it in an alternate location I could install a stock style plug in addition to my Powerlet plug. This is what I had in mind.

Powerlet Socket Kit - 36" Harness - Powerlet Products

Is 36" long enough to go from the dash to the battery? I want to direct wire it so I can use it as a charging port.


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post #66 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 01:53 PM
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Any chance I could get a set of those at full resolution. 🙂

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Anyone get service manual file? I would greatly appreciate a copy. [email protected]
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post #67 of 80 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 11:29 AM
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I got the relay plugged in. I did not remove any hardware. I can't get enough length on the pigtail to slide the relay into the retaining bar.

I don't guess that really matters. There is a retaining wiretie. I see the end but can't figure out a way to cut it.

The dashboard plug is on back order. Where do I plug that in?
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post #68 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-13-2018, 12:39 PM
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I'm thinking about getting this and wiring it directly to the battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Charger-CHGee...et+with+switch


Has anyone here tried this or a similar usb socket with a switch wired directly to the battery? Am I correct in thinking that since it has a fuse, there shouldn't be a problem if it shorts out for some reason?

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300 - 2015 Honda F6B Gold Wing
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post #69 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-13-2018, 12:51 PM
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about 8 years ago, i put in a switched auxillary fuse box in my 2008 V. really convenient when it comes to adding farkles. then, i bought a harbor freight 12v for a couple of dollars. i zip tied it to my left handlebar, and there it's been ever since. still works great. remarkably, it doesn't look bad either.
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post #70 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-13-2018, 12:52 PM
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A problem like forgetting to turn off the switch. :-)

I have a fused power connector attached to the frame on both of my bikes for the air compressor if it has a flat direct to the battery but is is basically never used. The power outlet is under the seat to use it. You can also charge the battery from it.

I have an Eastern Beaver 8 circuit fuse box on my V-Strom 1000 but the little power output on the Versus 300 doesn't really merit that IMO.


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Last edited by SECoda; 08-13-2018 at 01:05 PM.
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post #71 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018, 07:48 AM
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I ended up installing a plain old $6.99 12v socket that I remembered I already have. I originally purchased it to put on a scooter, but discovered there wasn't enough space to mount it where I had planned. For now, I wired it directly to the battery with a fuse. But, I plan to add the relay this fall. The Kawasaki relay is only $13.46 at Rocky Mountain ATV/MC, but to get free shipping I'll need to spend $75. So I'll get it when I buy oil and filters for the motorcycles in my household this fall.

By the time I get the bullet connectors, the total cost will be less than $25.



edit: I forgot to mention that I needed to use a Dremel to make the hole slightly bigger so the socket would fit. Did I miss others doing the same in this thread, or was the socket I used larger in diameter than most?

edit #2: I already discovered a problem with the socket I installed. The inner diameter is larger than it should be. So, when I plug in a usb adapter, the fit is not snug. I needed to wrap electrical tape around the adapter for make it fit properly. This fall when I install the relay, I'm going to replace the socket with one that has a usb port so I will not need an adapter.

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Last edited by CheesyRider; 08-14-2018 at 08:55 AM. Reason: Don't buy the socket I used!
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post #72 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheesyRider View Post
I'm thinking about getting this and wiring it directly to the battery...Has anyone here tried this or a similar usb socket with a switch wired directly to the battery? Am I correct in thinking that since it has a fuse, there shouldn't be a problem if it shorts out for some reason?
I ALWAYS run stuff so that they are ONLY powered w/ the ignition ON, so I don't find myself stranded w/ a dead battery....
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post #73 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 01:08 AM
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+1. Always power accessories through a switched source, otherwise one day you will find yourself with a flat battery.

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #74 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheesyRider View Post
I ended up installing a plain old $6.99 12v socket that I remembered I already have. I originally purchased it to put on a scooter, but discovered there wasn't enough space to mount it where I had planned. For now, I wired it directly to the battery with a fuse. But, I plan to add the relay this fall. The Kawasaki relay is only $13.46 at Rocky Mountain ATV/MC, but to get free shipping I'll need to spend $75. So I'll get it when I buy oil and filters for the motorcycles in my household this fall.

By the time I get the bullet connectors, the total cost will be less than $25.



edit: I forgot to mention that I needed to use a Dremel to make the hole slightly bigger so the socket would fit. Did I miss others doing the same in this thread, or was the socket I used larger in diameter than most?
I think that I have the very same socket as you. It's great in that you can give the plug a slight clockwise twist to lock it into the socket. I used a rat tail file to open the hole just a little. Plus see below.

edit #2: I already discovered a problem with the socket I installed. The inner diameter is larger than it should be. So, when I plug in a usb adapter, the fit is not snug. I needed to wrap electrical tape around the adapter for make it fit properly. This fall when I install the relay, I'm going to replace the socket with one that has a usb port so I will not need an adapter.
Why not fit a USB plug on the opposite side of the dash as I have? Then you have future proofed any new purchases.

This image of my instruments is a bit dark but I have the cigarette lighter socket on the left and have put a dual USB with voltmeter on the right. One of these: https://www.ebay.com/p/12v-Dual-Port....c100005.m1851
The fit was easy.
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File Type: jpg X300 Instruments.jpg (47.7 KB, 65 views)

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #75 of 80 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 04:26 PM
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New How To / X300 Thread

As promised, now that it is in How To, unstuck thread, active thread link at last post of How To https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...lug-style.html
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post #76 of 80 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danwray View Post
FYI, if you don't want to waste the money on the OEM relay, I found one on amazon that works. It doesnt have the rubber extension that comes down around the connector, but I don't see the lack of that being an issue for me.

http://a.co/bao0plK

I used it to connect a set of heated grips to the bullet connectors, as I already have a USB charger for a set of battery tender leads.
Thanks, used this relay to get my charger set up this weekend.



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post #77 of 80 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 08:59 AM
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Lot of good info here, thanks to all.
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post #78 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 02:55 PM
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Looking at my new to me machine, there is a relay installed but I think it has been used to connect the heated grips - these are Oxfords and draw about 60watts. I intend to get a power socket and LED auxilliary lights so do you figure I need to rewire the grips straight to the battery - as recommended by the makers - and what was the dealer doing wiring them in to the realy?!
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post #79 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by essexben View Post
Looking at my new to me machine, there is a relay installed but I think it has been used to connect the heated grips - these are Oxfords and draw about 60watts. I intend to get a power socket and LED auxilliary lights so do you figure I need to rewire the grips straight to the battery - as recommended by the makers - and what was the dealer doing wiring them in to the realy?!
The accessory relay was intended for installation of accessories, including heated grips. So that's why the dealer installed them that way, to answer your question. See https://www.kawasaki.com/accessories...-kit/999940556

I believe that Oxford might be recommending wiring direct to the battery as many bikes do not come with an accessory circuit from the factory. It's easier for them to instruct everyone to do it the same way, that way being the way that works for everyone, and that often makes for a simpler installation for most as well. To me, it definitely makes more sense to use a switched power source for heated grips rather than wiring direct to the battery. I realize that the Oxfords probably come with low voltage battery protection so that they shut off before the battery is depleted, but I'd rather not test that feature all the time personally.

There is no issue running grips that draw a max of 4A on a 5A circuit. LED lights don't draw much current, either - my Denalis are 10W, so that is less than 1A. Those handgrip heaters at the highest setting and LED auxiliary lights on high should not exceed the 5A rating on the accessory fuse, but you should check the specs to be sure.
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Last edited by leftbrain99; 08-07-2019 at 07:07 PM.
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post #80 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 06:59 PM
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Oxford Grips

Quote:
Originally Posted by essexben View Post
Looking at my new to me machine, there is a relay installed but I think it has been used to connect the heated grips - these are Oxfords and draw about 60watts. I intend to get a power socket and LED auxilliary lights so do you figure I need to rewire the grips straight to the battery - as recommended by the makers - and what was the dealer doing wiring them in to the realy?!
They do shut off on lower voltage, however if you choose to rewire you still need a fuse, as I recall the Oxford came with a inline fuse. You could first try the added lights on the existing circuit. I ran a fused 15 amp, 14 gauge wire to my relay and used the existing auxiliary wiring to trigger that relay.
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