Versys x300 - Sprockets/Re-gearing Causes Engine Fault Light - Page 9 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Versys-X 300 General Discussion Please post any 2017+ Kawasaki Versys-X 300 related topics that DO NOT fit into any of the other topics here.

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post #161 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:19 AM
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I did a 43t rear. First gear is use able now! Definitely a nice upgrade.
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post #162 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:44 PM
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I did a 43t rear. First gear is use able now! Definitely a nice upgrade.
So No issues at all with the Electronics? Which sprocket brand did you use?
I don't want to lose the rubber dampening on the front sprocket, so I am highly considering this mod.

2017 Versys-X 300 ABS
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post #163 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 03:45 PM
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So No issues at all with the Electronics? Which sprocket brand did you use?
I don't want to lose the rubber dampening on the front sprocket, so I am highly considering this mod.
Just a basic JT steel sprocket. Got over 100 miles in and no issue yet; people say that the fault will trigger between 60-80 miles.
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post #164 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:40 PM
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Did you keep the stock chain?
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post #165 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:25 AM
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Did you keep the stock chain?
Yes I did. Its well used but in good shape so the stretch might be helping, but the math says a stock chain should be fine with only 3 extra teeth.
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post #166 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 12:55 PM
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Just a basic JT steel sprocket. Got over 100 miles in and no issue yet; people say that the fault will trigger between 60-80 miles.
Thank you, I will order the JT JTR486.43.

2017 Versys-X 300 ABS
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post #167 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 01:16 PM
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Question: Has anyone tried 15/45 combination yet? Curious.
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post #168 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 08:14 PM
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I did the 15 tooth. Really like the improvement. First gear matters again. Feels much better in 3rd and 4th gear. 5-6 gear are still screaming between 60-75mph. But that's how this bike and 300cc's works. I get it. I didn't buy it for the interstate.

Standard chain and sun sprocket were installed. I wear a helmet, so I haven't heard the non dampened difference. Sprocket change makes me compelled to keep it. It flicks like a champ and feels nimble enough for my riding style.

Really appreciate everyone's efforts and input,

Eucy
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post #169 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 09:14 PM
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post #170 of 176 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 01:44 PM
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Just had the countershaft sprocket changed. I planned to changed it myself but age and wisdom is starting to get in the way of me doing things (including tree trimming and painting). What a difference 1 tooth makes (14 to 15). The bike takes off from stop much nicer and it behaves like a "normal" bike now. I could not be happier, and no noises follow the change.

I had my dealer change the stock sprocket with a versys 650 front sprocket (dampened as well). To my surprise the 650 sprocket was off by 3.5 mm from the stock one, so the mechanic installed 2 - 1.75mm trust washers to compensate and align. I'm wondering if the noises some brothers are noticing are from misaligned chain/countershaft issues.
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post #171 of 176 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 05:33 PM
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The info in this thread was very useful, so I wanted drop a rundown of a “fix” for the service code 25 that I have found that works on the Ninja 400. When changing the gearing more than 7ish percent, we also see that code. My suspicion is the ECU is comparing RPM to rear wheel speed in reference to current gear being reported by the gear position sensor. i believe there is a speed table somewhere in the ECU, a bit like what they were finding in the Ninja 250. When it sees a large enough mismatch, it seems to “assume” the problem is the gear position sensor. After a semi-sarcastic comment to a friend about “how can it possibly compare rear wheel speed speed to RPM when the clutch disengaging the engine and transmission can make any RPM occur at any speed” and some follow up testing, it does not appear the ECU is making that check while the clutch switch is closed. Here is a copy/paste from my post on another forum about this same issue. While I can’t promise results here, I have a very strong feeling it will work. Definitely let me know.

“WARNING! Doing this disables the engine lockout switch! The bike will allow you to attempt to start when in gear even if the clutch lever is not held in. IT WILL LUNGE FORWARD ABRUPTLY IF ATTEMPTING TO START! This is disabling a safety feature, and I cannot recommend doing this, especially on a street driven vehicle.

Now that that's out of the way. Currently I have a jumper wire in place of the clutch switch (aka Engine Lockout Switch), and have not received an error code after quite a few hours and miles of driving. I removed the jumper and the error appeared with 15 minutes, and I also got the error when the jumper fell out, unknown to me at the time. So this means that the ECU isn't comparing RPM to rear wheel speed while the clutch is "engaged." While I can't say there isn't anything else happening, I haven't noticed any negative effects of this on performance. AFR stays as programmed, ignition advance is fine, all the basics seem fine.”

So in short, since I didn’t explain it will, I disconnected the wire from the switch on the clutch lever, plugged a wire into each side of the connector so it always appeared to the electronics that the clutch lever was being pulled. I haven’t had time to dig into the wiring harness more, but I think if you place a diode in the line that goes from the clutch switch system and the ECU so power can only flow towards the ECU, and then a diode that sends power from the wire powering that switch system to between that other diode and the ECU, the ECU should always see that the clutch switch is closed (pulled) but should allow the rest of the engine lockout features to still work and not backfeed power into those lines. Again, it’s only an untested thought at this point, but maybe work exploring for someone who has a service manual wiring diagram and doesn’t mine cutting into the harness to get readings and attaching diodes.
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post #172 of 176 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 08:33 AM
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Thanks for this Rkturbo - anxious to hear if this bypass method continues to work after more riding miles. I'd like to try more taller gearing than simply 7%.
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post #173 of 176 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 03:00 PM
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Thanks for this Rkturbo - anxious to hear if this bypass method continues to work after more riding miles. I'd like to try more taller gearing than simply 7%.
I can say with certainty that it's 100% for the Ninja (2018 400 at least, theoretically should work on any Kawasaki getting this code with a similar sensor and ecu setup). I've put on at least 500 miles with it, varying conditions and speeds. During my testing, I could reliably get it to trigger on demand at high speeds, but with it jumpered, I've thrown everything I could at it and still don't get a code.
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post #174 of 176 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 07:13 PM
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I just did the same and definitely like the difference!

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post #175 of 176 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 09:54 AM
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Thanks again Rkturbo - I like the "fix". Not sure if I'll ever use it but great to have the option.

So, when I googled the lockout switch I stumbled upon the Assembly & Preparation manual: https://static.oemdtc.com/TSB/MC-10109088-9999.pdf

I started a new thread with that header since it is a useful reference to all the tinkerers.

BTW, anyone know of a 16T front sprocket that fits V-x or Ninja 300?
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post #176 of 176 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 03:49 AM
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Thanks Rkturbo for post # 171 has worked 2000+ trouble free miles on my 2017 abs x300 .
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