Versys x300 - Sprockets/Re-gearing Causes Engine Fault Light - Page 6 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Versys-X 300 General Discussion Please post any 2017+ Kawasaki Versys-X 300 related topics that DO NOT fit into any of the other topics here.

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post #101 of 170 (permalink) Old 02-13-2018, 08:58 AM
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Stuck Thread / Future How To Forum Thread

As in the title, going the extra mile helps many, at some point I will copy all the informative posts and start a How To Thread.Really surprised at all the views, thought for a minute I made a mistake in sticking the wrong thing.

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post #102 of 170 (permalink) Old 02-16-2018, 08:16 AM
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Finally got to test ride after the sprocket change. The difference is very minimal to me, but I didn't feel any loss of power, and the vibes seem to have calmed down a bit at country road cruising speeds, so I consider it a worth mod considering the cost of the new sprocket. Now hoping for some more warmer, dryer days to enjoy and hopefully tune in some seat foam mods.
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post #103 of 170 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 07:41 PM
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Kawasaki Australia's Position on Re-gearing

Are Kawasaki telling me that they are bound by law not to suggest or rectify modifications - but that their authorised dealers can? and will? That is not the impression the dealer gave me.

"In regards to the gearing change and the effects of this.

Kawasaki Motors sincerely hopes you understand our legal position when we advise you that due to Australian federal and state legislation, as the manufacturer’s representative and authorised importer and distributor of Kawasaki motorcycles to Australia, our company is legally constrained to comment or suggest any modification away from standard as per the manufacturers original design and factory shipment unless offered by Kawasaki Motors as an authorised Kawasaki factory alternative.

Having said that, the same restrictions do not apply to our authorised Kawasaki motorcycle dealers who are very familiar with all aspects of Kawasaki motorcycles.

To perhaps help you understand the situation though, modern fuel injection and rider/driver aid systems are complex and often rely on a predetermined set of parameters to operate off so as to ensure the product performs exactly as intended by the factory. Any modifications away from factory fitment may result in undesirable conditions and in this instance, this may be what you are experiencing. As you are modifying the unit away from factory specifications, unfortunately there is no information we can offer you to rectify the situation.

We see from your letter that you have been dealing with Queensland Bike and 4WD and therefore we can only suggest that you please remain in contact with your preferred authorised Kawasaki motorcycle dealer as the staff at all Kawasaki dealerships have been trained and really are the people best suited to assist you with your enquiries.

Alternatively you can locate any authorised Kawasaki motorcycle dealership by visiting our public website at Kawasaki Australia | Motorcycles | Jet Skis | RUV | ATV's and under the menu option “Dealers”, utilise the dealer locator function.



Kind regards


Tony Janicska
TSD Assistant - Dealer Tech Support"

Kawasaki Motors Pty Ltd
Kawasaki Australia | Motorcycles | Jet Skis | RUV | ATV's

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #104 of 170 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 10:12 PM
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I signed up for an X-300 yesterday, and the dealer will put a 15 tooth on the front. I'm quite confident that it will not be over geared - even on dirt roads and trails. Perhaps may even want to look at a rear sprocket later on.
Pick up on Wednesday. I even managed to include a set of Mitas E-07's at cost. Kawasaki green for me. I'll hang on to my V-Strom for a while at least.

Inside the faring near the headlight is a spare electrical plug (white plastic, a two bayonet type plug designed to ensure power and earth are not switched). I will be looking to find switched power for camera and perhaps phone/GPS. Any ideas? And why does Kawasaki require a relay between power and outlet?

Brockie, the white plug (double barrel). I pulled out the fillers and checked for voltage but read nothing, I forgot to start the engine and check again. What is that plug for ?

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post #105 of 170 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 12:23 PM
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Brockie, the white plug (double barrel). I pulled out the fillers and checked for voltage but read nothing, I forgot to start the engine and check again. What is that plug for ?
I KNOW this is a "300" thread, but on the latest Gen 650's there are several of those but they ONLY become powered AFTER installation of a relay, so MIGHT be the same for you.

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post #106 of 170 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 04:47 PM
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Do we have good numbers to avoid the fault errors?

Looks like +1 front is OK, more is not.
Looks like -3 rear is OK, more is not.
Is +1 , -3 a safe combination.
How about just a -4 ?

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post #107 of 170 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 09:49 AM
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-4 rear causes engine fault light

That is where I have ended up with my X300, and it is the perfect gearing for me and my riding.
I had the dealer change from 14/46 to 15/46 pre-delivery as I had ridden the demo and realised just how short geared it was.
I then changed to 15/42 as it needed to be even higher. The result was too high and so I reverted to 14/42 (incidentally the OEM gearing for the Ninja 300).
Perfect!
On resetting the fault light and no gear indicator the issue is back during the first ride.

Therefore 15/46 is no problem, where 14/42 causes the fault. 14/42 is a slightly higher gearing than 15/46 and better gearing all round IMHO.
14/43 may be a safe option, a tad higher than 15/46.

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #108 of 170 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 06:29 PM
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According to the Gearing Commander (KLE300) website, the 15x46 and 14x43 are very close, of course.
Perhaps 14x43 is better than 15x46 because it may feel like it accelerates faster due to the front being 14.
Going to 15x43 would get me to almost 70mph at 7,000, my target range, improving buzziness and mpg.
Cruising above 8,000 things get kind of buzzy and fatiguing.

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post #109 of 170 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 08:11 PM
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I listened to the people on this site, with Brockie being one of them, and I went to a 15 tooth counter sprocket with no light. I find just this mod that the bike seems more relaxed but I would like to get the rpm's down even more but I just don't want to ride around with any kind of service or warning light on. I know it doesn't hurt anything but just don't like warning lights. I'm kind of surprised that it is so sensitive with just a little change in gearing.
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post #110 of 170 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheels2ride View Post
Going to 15x43 would get me to almost 70mph at 7,000, my target range, improving buzziness and mpg.
Cruising above 8,000 things get kind of buzzy and fatiguing.
By my experience I am confident that such a change will cause the fault to occur as 15/43 is higher than my existing 14/42.
Presuming that as 15/46 is O.K., then perhaps 15/43 might work is wrong as it is the relationship of road speed to rpm that causes the fault to occur.
The rear wheel ABS sensor also provides the speed input and that is why even the non-ABS models have the identical Rear Wheel Speed Sensor. Rather than feeding an ABS Module, that models wiring feeds directly to the ECU.

I found 15/42 to be a little high during hilly sealed back road riding and went back to 14/42. One tooth more on the front equates to 2 or 3 less off the rear.

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #111 of 170 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffR!1234 View Post
I listened to the people on this site, with Brockie being one of them, and I went to a 15 tooth counter sprocket with no light. I find just this mod that the bike seems more relaxed but I would like to get the rpm's down even more but I just don't want to ride around with any kind of service or warning light on. I know it doesn't hurt anything but just don't like warning lights. I'm kind of surprised that it is so sensitive with just a little change in gearing.
Agreed, Jeff, and it is all because they decided to use the Rear Wheel Speed Sensor to feed the speed reading, rather than the normal countershaft sprocket, or the front wheel rotation.

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #112 of 170 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 10:07 PM
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I reckon I have the problem sorted.
When I bought my Versys-X 300 last year, after 3 months of the bike revving its head off at 100km/hr.
At 100km/hr on my Garmin GPS, the speed on the dash was 110km/hr and 7500rpm.

I changed the gearing from the standard 14/46 to 15/46.
This improved the revs to 7250rpm.
I still wasn't happy with it doing those revs at the real 100km/hr.

I put a set of Mitas E-07 tyres on a fortnight ago.
With these tyres being a lot higher profile to the standards, here is the result.
At 100km/hr on the GPS the speed on the dash reads 100km/hr.
The revs at the real 100km/hr is now a smidgen under 7000rpm.
The bike now revs out further in each gear and I am not constantly changing gears like before.
So in summary, the speedo is now reading the exact correct speed, the bike is not revving its head off at 100km/r, and I am not constantly changing gears so quickly.

It has improved the bike to where I am happy with it.
Has dropped the revs by 500rpm at cruising, which doesn't sound like much, but to me is a great improvement.
And the gear indicator still reads true.
All sorted.
One happy Versys-X 300 rider.
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post #113 of 170 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 04:48 AM
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This is correct. I have been working on this from time to time.

I managed to talk a wiring diagram for the VX300 out of my local Kawasaki Dealer when I went in to order a high seat. With the wiring diagram I now see that I have been working on the Gear Indicator wiring as they were the only wires down there. I had purchased a SpeedoHealer with which I had hoped to fix it. Their instructions said to find a 3 wire plug.

The VX300 speed sensor is the rear ABS disc and wiring. It feeds a two wire signal with both wires disappearing into the ABS Unit. I proved this by running the engine on the main stand and revving the rear wheel in gear. I then unplugged the rear ABS plug (the black two wire plug pictured below that runs up the rear sub frame and disappears into the wiring loom) and the speedo did not work. Plugged in again and the speedo worked.

That is why the displayed speed remains correct (or rather the normal sightly optimistic reading). It comes from the rear wheel. This sort of blows me out of the water regarding getting the fault light out and having a gear indicator, unless I fit the SpeedoHealer and wind back the reading until it displays well below my actual speed.

Any suggestions for my next move will be very welcome. I am thinking that only a modified ABS unit or ECU can resolve the issue. It is annoying as the engine is identical to the Ninja 300 which is geared 14/38 rather than the VX300's 14/42. I still have not approached my Kawasaki dealer as surely all they can offer is to advise me to return to stock gearing.

Hola, desde España.

he visto SpeedoHealer para versys 300 x a la venta... funcionara??
https://www.ebay.es/i/322897290007?chn=ps
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post #114 of 170 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 05:37 AM
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https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/sh/

cables SH-U01

https://healtech-electronics.com/doc...llGuide_en.pdf

Hello from Spain.

I've seen SpeedoHealer for versys 300 x for sale ... will it work?

What problem did speedohealer have that you bought 3 threads and versys 300x 2 threads? you were not wrong connector?
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post #115 of 170 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 07:41 PM
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Hi Pedro,

I never fitted a speed healer as if I experimented, and cured the fault, my speed reading would then be way under my actual speed.
Incidentally, my post is wrong in that the OEM gearing for a 300 Ninja is 14/42 and the OEM gearing for a 300 Versys is 14/46. I had brain fade.

My gearing is now 14/42 (with the engine fault) which is a little higher than 15/46 (which does not cause the fault to occur). I find 14/42 to be the best overall final gearing option.

The fault brings up the fault light and kills the gear indicator. I am currently living with it but one day may change back to 15/46.

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #116 of 170 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 04:04 AM
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14-42 + SpeedoHealer will nullify the fault?

14-42 how many RPM at 120kmh?

thanks for answering, I understood that you had tried speedhealer and could not connect it because you versys 300, 2 threads and speedohealer 3 threads
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post #117 of 170 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 04:27 AM
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at advriders.com they say MISSION OF THE GEAR INDICATOR: the problem apparently resolves after walking approximately 100 miles after changing the sizes of the gears, the computer will "learn" a new relation and its indicator will work again and verify that the line of the engine is gone.

It is true? Has anyone tried it?
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post #118 of 170 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 10:44 PM
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I did not attempt to install a speed healer as it would end up giving me a very inaccurate speed reading. I believe that it should be able to correct the fault but give a speed reading much less than actual speed.

I certainly have changed my gearing and traveled much more than 100kms since. My system has not "learned" the new gearing.

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #119 of 170 (permalink) Old 06-04-2018, 08:34 AM
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contacted with: www.motorvista.es
send me this installation scheme seems to work
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post #120 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-18-2018, 09:19 AM
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I swapped out my stock 14T countershaft sprocket on my Vx 300 to this 15T model: Sunstar 34115 (520 pitch, 15T). I believe the stock chain is 520 pitch.

Bottom Line. It performs exactly as I had hoped slightly taller gearing would perform, especially in the first couple gears. So I'm very pleased in that regard. However, I'm getting a very noticeable and very objectionable whine (except lower in pitch or frequency compared with how I think of a whine) that varies with speed and not necessarily with engine RPM as the whine is also present with clutch engaged at speed with the rear wheel driving the front sprocket.

I installed the front sprocket with the protruding side to inside per the service manual.

I adjusted the chain slack per the decal on the left swingarm. It's set nearly exactly as the stock setting as, being extra cautious, I took 2 pix of the range of chain slack with a ruler in the pix (with bike on center stand). Of course, the chain tightens a bit once let down off the center stand. I aligned the chain using the index marks and confirmed by counting the threads on the adjuster bolt. (I've since ordered the Motion Pro 08-0048 Chain Alignment Tool) in an attempt to validate what I've done.)

This noise I'm hearing is not due to the chain being too tight.

Any thoughts as to the origin of this whine or to my procedure? The only deviation I made to the service manual's procedure (because I missed it) was to use a coating of Red & Tacky #2 multipurpose grease on the sprocket rather than molybdenum disulfide oil solution called out in the service manual). Could this be the cause? Obviously I will address this and retest.

Last edited by tfrazie; 07-18-2018 at 09:23 AM.
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