Versys x300 - Sprockets/Re-gearing Causes Engine Fault Light - Page 2 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Versys-X 300 General Discussion Please post any 2017+ Kawasaki Versys-X 300 related topics that DO NOT fit into any of the other topics here.

 23Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 06:43 PM
Member
 
Brockie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 387
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by CA200 View Post
No I did not damage the sensor and yes a 16 tooth fits with lots of room. On another forum someone changed the rear sprocket
by more then 3 teeth and the same thing happened. I do have a service manual and the error code reads " Gear position sensor
malfunction". I am guessing if you change the gear ratio to much the ECU can't read it anymore.
Wait a week as I have ordered a smaller rear sprocket. I will let you know what happens.
I am hoping that is not the case as I too will then have the same issue as yourself. I'd thought that the issue was related to the speed sensor but you state that it is a gear position sensor fault. Surely these are separate sensors and changing the final gearing ratio should have no effect on the gear position indicator, wherever that is (presumably within the gearbox).
Very strange. I will let you know what happens.
Does your X300 have ABS? Just wondering if that could have something to do with it.
Brockie is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-06-2017, 12:38 PM
Member
 
CA200's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Madison Wisconsin
Posts: 74
Garage
Yes mine is a ABS model. You do have ride it 30-50 miles before it stops working.

Last edited by CA200; 07-06-2017 at 12:44 PM.
CA200 is offline  
post #23 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-06-2017, 06:23 PM
Member
 
Brockie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 387
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by CA200 View Post
Yes mine is a ABS model. You do have ride it 30-50 miles before it stops working.
Mine is ABS as well. I'll post after a test ride but surely if the fault occurs DURING a ride then it cannot be a conflict between gearing and ECU.
My rear sprocket is on its way, and a main stand as well so I will fit that first to make removing the rear wheel easier.
Brockie is offline  
 
post #24 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-12-2017, 10:03 PM
Member
 
Brockie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 387
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by CA200 View Post
Yes mine is a ABS model. You do have ride it 30-50 miles before it stops working.
I have just returned from a 50km test ride with my new gearing. My local shop only offered two options - 42 tooth or 38 tooth. I decided to go all in and chose the 38 tooth. Wow.

I have probably overdone it but is still very rideable. A little more care to slip the clutch on takeoff, and for normal riding you need to keep above 4,500rpm. Obviously the power is muted and 6,000 rpm in sixth gear which used to be an indicated 86kph now shows 105kph. I'll need to get a GPS hooked up to give a true speed but it does seem pretty much in the ballpark.

There are NO problems with the gear indicator or fault light. All instruments work as per normal.

I'd not recommend this gearing for two up but traveling distances solo plus reasonable gear should see an easier ride and improved economy - and when a hill turns up that is what the gearbox is for. I had the dealer fit a 15 tooth front and I now intend to go back to the original 14 tooth - that should make me very happy. There is no doubt that the bike can pull that gearing if the rider uses the gearbox. My X-300 is still under 1,000 kms and at present I am keeping to a 6,000 rpm max and avoiding wide open throttle. Looking forward to feeding it the fat later on.

Now for the accessory power source. I have rejected the very expensive Kawasaki relay/plug combo and will search for a switched source somewhere. Any suggestions?
Brockie is offline  
post #25 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 10:24 PM
Member
 
Brockie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 387
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockie View Post
There are NO problems with the gear indicator or fault light. All instruments work as per normal.
Update. I went out for a ride today. All good for 20kms and then the gear indicator went out and the check engine light came on. Damn!

So I have it now as well from my second ride. Ignition on, all good. Start the engine, all good. Engage 1st gear, the green N and the gear indicator go out. Engage neutral, no green N and no gear indicator.

The check engine light is now permanent. I disconnected the battery for 3 minutes and when reconnected the fault was still there, and strangely, the clock did not reset to zero either (and updated itself) so there must be some backup that has its own power source. I'd imaging that like a modern car it must need an OBD2 or similar fault reader to cancel the check engine fault. Off to the dealer I guess.
Brockie is offline  
post #26 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 11:30 PM
Member
 
silviefox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: welches, oregon
Posts: 3,115
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to silviefox
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockie View Post
Update. I went out for a ride today. All good for 20kms and then the gear indicator went out and the check engine light came on. Damn!

So I have it now as well from my second ride. Ignition on, all good. Start the engine, all good. Engage 1st gear, the green N and the gear indicator go out. Engage neutral, no green N and no gear indicator.

The check engine light is now permanent. I disconnected the battery for 3 minutes and when reconnected the fault was still there, and strangely, the clock did not reset to zero either (and updated itself) so there must be some backup that has its own power source. I'd imaging that like a modern car it must need an OBD2 or similar fault reader to cancel the check engine fault. Off to the dealer I guess.
did you turn the key on and press the start button when the battery was unhooked?

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"closed mindedness causes bliss in simple minded people"
silviefox is offline  
post #27 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 01:42 AM
Member
 
Brockie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 387
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by silviefox View Post
did you turn the key on and press the start button when the battery was unhooked?
No, I did not. Off to the garage now.

I have just tried that, and the flashers, brakes and horn as well. Then waited a couple of minutes and did it all again.
Just the same. Check engine light stays on and gear position indicator replaced with a blinking vertical line.

Last edited by Brockie; 07-14-2017 at 01:57 AM.
Brockie is offline  
post #28 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-14-2017, 09:02 AM
Member
 
CA200's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Madison Wisconsin
Posts: 74
Garage
The service manual says you can get the error code by starting the bike and pressing the top button till it shows the odometer
then press both buttons for at least 2 seconds and it will show the code. I am sure it will # 25 "Gear position malfunction"
CA200 is offline  
post #29 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 10:56 AM
Member
 
motorboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 299
Garage
If I'm reading this right it's just the bikes with ABS that are showing a fault code and you have not broken anything-I have seen this before on some bikes that you can not change gearing if it has ABS-reason is the wheel sensors are there to detect uneven wheel movement (one turning faster than the other according to engine speed) you will not be able to fix that without the help of mother Kawasaki and I don't think they will help because of safety reasons-if it's a bike without ABS showing a code than I don't have a clue because it should not make a difference--we had a saying back in the day about ECU codes--if you don't tell it how it know again if it's ABS you told it..

Deep in Cajun Country
motorboy is offline  
post #30 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 06:11 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Middle Georgia
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by motorboy View Post
If I'm reading this right it's just the bikes with ABS that are showing a fault code and you have not broken anything-I have seen this before on some bikes that you can not change gearing if it has ABS-reason is the wheel sensors are there to detect uneven wheel movement (one turning faster than the other according to engine speed) you will not be able to fix that without the help of mother Kawasaki and I don't think they will help because of safety reasons-if it's a bike without ABS showing a code than I don't have a clue because it should not make a difference--we had a saying back in the day about ECU codes--if you don't tell it how it know again if it's ABS you told it..
All well and good except the abs sensors are on the wheels and unaffected by gearing?
Fuzzy74 is offline  
post #31 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 07:08 PM
Member
 
Brockie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 387
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy74 View Post
All well and good except the abs sensors are on the wheels and unaffected by gearing?
I think what Motorboy is saying is that to detect wheel lock up the ABS part of the ECU must compare wheel speed with bike speed (via the bike speed sensor) and the system becomes confused when it's parameters of what is "normal" are exceeded. I think.
Brockie is offline  
post #32 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 09:11 PM
Member
 
silviefox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: welches, oregon
Posts: 3,115
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to silviefox
so wouldnt removing the ABS fuse and seeing if the error code goes away be a logical thought? (not being a smart ass just asking for reals)

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"closed mindedness causes bliss in simple minded people"
silviefox is offline  
post #33 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 10:41 PM
Member
 
motorboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 299
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockie View Post
I think what Motorboy is saying is that to detect wheel lock up the ABS part of the ECU must compare wheel speed with bike speed (via the bike speed sensor) and the system becomes confused when it's parameters of what is "normal" are exceeded. I think.
Yes you got it

Deep in Cajun Country
motorboy is offline  
post #34 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 10:43 PM
Member
 
motorboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 299
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by silviefox View Post
so wouldnt removing the ABS fuse and seeing if the error code goes away be a logical thought? (not being a smart ass just asking for reals)
If the fuse only controls the ABS-than yes that would be a good idea

Deep in Cajun Country
motorboy is offline  
post #35 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 03:08 AM
Member
 
Brockie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 387
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by motorboy View Post
If the fuse only controls the ABS-than yes that would be a good idea
Except that will also disable the ABS, and would we still not need a dealer to cancel the fault code?

I will try it tomorrow, and turn the bike off at 50kms and again at 150kms to see if multiple restarts has any effect.
Brockie is offline  
post #36 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 10:59 AM
Member
 
motorboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 299
Garage
Time to break this down--trouble shoot 101-cause and effect-problem 2 bikes on this forum with ABS-CA200(I do remember that Honda 90) and Brockie- gearing changed fault code came on--bikes without ABS no fault code-isolate problem- remove fuse code may or may not come on not sure without trying and may isolate problem but is not permanent fix-best way put gearing back to stock -code still there bike needs to go to dealer-code gone fixed- problem is gearing other than stock-will not be able to use on ABS bikes due to program in ECU that is non changeable---it is what it is

Deep in Cajun Country
motorboy is offline  
post #37 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 06:27 PM
Member
 
Brockie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 387
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by motorboy View Post
Time to break this down--trouble shoot 101-cause and effect-problem 2 bikes on this forum with ABS-CA200(I do remember that Honda 90) and Brockie- gearing changed fault code came on--bikes without ABS no fault code-isolate problem- remove fuse code may or may not come on not sure without trying and may isolate problem but is not permanent fix-best way put gearing back to stock -code still there bike needs to go to dealer-code gone fixed- problem is gearing other than stock-will not be able to use on ABS bikes due to program in ECU that is non changeable---it is what it is
I'm inclined to agree with your analysis. And I'd suggest that cancelling the fault code can only be done by the dealer with a fault code reader. When I reconnected the X-300's battery the clock resumed it's display of the correct time. It even corrected itself for the few minutes it was off and so the ECU must have some sort of memory backup meaning that fault codes will probably not cure themselves.

I will remove the ABS fuse and see what happens during a ride. And then disconnect the battery overnight to see if the code resets. The cure for the issue is surely looking like reversing the gearing change - and then a visit to the dealer.
Brockie is offline  
post #38 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 10:32 PM
Member
 
motorboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 299
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockie View Post
I'm inclined to agree with your analysis. And I'd suggest that cancelling the fault code can only be done by the dealer with a fault code reader. When I reconnected the X-300's battery the clock resumed it's display of the correct time. It even corrected itself for the few minutes it was off and so the ECU must have some sort of memory backup meaning that fault codes will probably not cure themselves.

I will remove the ABS fuse and see what happens during a ride. And then disconnect the battery overnight to see if the code resets. The cure for the issue is surely looking like reversing the gearing change - and then a visit to the dealer.
How long did you leave the battery disconnected --it must be left for 5 min's or longer to bleed down capacitors-no built in memory- than turn the key on a few seconds-key off reconnect battery-clock should say 12- fault light should be off and reset

Deep in Cajun Country
motorboy is offline  
post #39 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 01:48 AM
Member
 
Brockie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 387
Garage
I took the ABS fuse out and went for a long ride, stopping every 40kms or so and turning the bike off and on again.

The ABS fuse also services the speed sensor so that when disconnected there is no speed indication, and therefore no "range remaining", and the odo and trip meters are frozen. After 120kms I replaced the fuse and rode a further 60kms home. The fault and the check engine light will not reset.

I'm guessing that like other Versys the speed sensor works off the countershaft sprocket. My next experiment will be to go back to a larger rear sprocket and buy a 16 tooth front sprocket that I now know will fit.

I'll also disconnect the battery overnight.

p.s. the two fault codes displayed by holding the two dash buttons are 24 and 25.

Last edited by Brockie; 07-17-2017 at 01:51 AM.
Brockie is offline  
post #40 of 170 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 08:43 AM
Member
 
CA200's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Madison Wisconsin
Posts: 74
Garage
Going with just 16 tooth front makes about 1000 rpm lower.
CA200 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Versys Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome