Did you?????? Open "cup washer" flange to allow for Sprocket Nut removal. Notice cup washer is facing out and replace the same way.

 

You mean the washer that is flattened over on one side? Yes, I hammered it flat with a rubber mallet....

 

Trying to use a 16" breaker bar with a 27mm socket.....

 

This is insane.....It's like it's welded on. I don't have an air gun, but I have an impact wrench and that still doesn't loosen it......Uggh.

 

Haha. Yeah, it's a common complaint around here. It is stuck on pretty good, but I had no problems with a padded wood in wheel/swingarm and a 2-foot 1/2" drive breaker bar with 1-1/16" (26.9875mm) 6-point socket... Being a 6'1" 210 lbs ex-arm wrestling champion helps as well.

Is it 1/2" drive? If so, you could add a pipe extender on your breaker bar.

No, it's not a reverse threaded nut.

 

My local bikes shop could not shift it with their impact wrench so we moved it with the longest breaker bar in the world and me standing on the rear break level and mechanic fell on his butt as nut came loose and I even lent them my 27mm six point socket

 

Yep, it's a 1/2" drive, 27mm socket on a 16" breaker bar. I guess I'll add some pipe/leverage to it tomorrow and keep trying. If I can't get it, I'll call my Navy Seal buddy over.....He won't leave until it's off...

 

That's sounds like a good plan, with the Super Commando. :usa:
You can help by holding the Versys upright... And get ready for a good sharp "PANG !!!"

 

Invader-
Thanks for all your help with everything.....(all my threads)....It's MUCH appreciated.

 

I had a tremendous amount of trouble with the drive nut. I tried 4' cheater pipe and an impact wrench. I ended using a dremel and a cut off wheel to "Loosen the nut by cutting it in two pieces. Then I used an air hammer with a chisel attachment to drive it off.

 

If you place a long socket between one of the bottom teeth of the front socket and the frame there isnt any slack. This will help you leverage.

 

My air impact wrench (Craftsman) did it in about 2 seconds....

:goodidea:

 

+1, except I used my battery powered impact. I was terrified to install a new chain and sprockets on my bike when I needed them, because of everything I read on here. I had out several breaker bars, and wood pieces. Just for fun I grabbed my impact, and it popped off.

It was the original sprocket, based on the mileage when I bought it, so it should have been on tight.

 

I just have cheap impact wrench but it made short work of it.

Sent from Motorcycle.com App

 

Borrowed an old, heavy duty air impact gun from a friend....No luck. Again, all I have is this little Crafstman air compressor, but it should easily be able to get this thing off, no? I thought maybe the washer was stopping me, so I pounded it totally flat all the way around. I'll try the long socket through to block any slack, but I'm not understanding WHERE excatly you're placing it..."between the bottom teeth of the front sprocket and the swingarm"???

 

I'll try the long socket through to block any slack, but I'm not understanding WHERE excatly you're placing it..."between the bottom teeth of the front sprocket and the swingarm"???

Yup.

 

And you DO turn the nut COUNTER CLOCKWISE to loosen, right?? I'm going nuts here(pun intended).

 

You're not going nuts. Some are put on very tight at the factory. Lefty loosey.:thumb:

 

I just bought a 16t sprocket for my Versys and remember trying to get the one off my KLR when I put a 16t on it. I tried a 24" 1/2" breaker bar with a 4 FOOT pipe. All we did was crank the bike around the garage about 3 time. I ended up at a local tire shop and they hit it with a 1/2" impact gun and even then it took four tries. Manual said 72fp on the KLR...I think they had it at 72 foot TONS!

I have a bud who has a big impact gun and I'm waiting to do the job next week end remembering what fun the KLR was.

I have never understood why it needs to be so tight anyway. The splines are what keeps it from twisting and the nut just keep the sprocket from falling off it seems to me.

 

FRIGGIN' A.....Had a buddy come over with a 3' breaker bar. I stood on the back brake with all my weight on the far side, with the block of wood blocking the wheel from spinning and we finally got it off. You guys were right about thinking you broke your breaker bars. First thing out of his mouth was "oh ****, I think I just broke my bar or your axle!".....It was just the nut, which thin spun off freely. Thanks for the help.

 

I am glad you got the nut off. I can say that my relatively inexpensive harbor freight compressor and impact wrench had the nut off with minimal trouble.

It appears that once you have the nut off and appropriately lubricate it upon replacement that it should not be that big an issue the next time.

 

It does tend to be bonded on from when originally installed dry on the seating surface. Applying lube to the threads and seating surface can result in an overtightened nut.

Repair manual does mention to: "Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the threads of the output shaft and seating surface of the engine sprocket nut... Tighten to 92 ft-lbs."

I torqued it back on dry at 92 ft lbs, and it loosened normally when I removed nut a year later to replace the chain.

 

I reached this thread looking for the "secret" of removing the front sprocket and you guys freaked me out.

As the rest of you, I got ready to replace it and I couldn't remove it with anything, the air impact wrench did nothing, the breaker bar was lifting the bike and not loosening the nut. I was losing hope and thought about tensioning the chain removing all the slack, that did the trick. With a tensioned chain and the impact wrench and the tight chain, the nut came off very easily.

As a curiosity, my old front sprocket had no signs of the factory rubber dampener. It has disintegrated. The picture shows the old (17K miles vs the new one)

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=120410&thumb=1