So I was changing the oil... - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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So I was changing the oil...

I recently picked up a 2006 FZ6 for my son. It was a good price on a clean, non dropped bike. I was doing some basic maintenance and changing the oil. The guy warned me about this issue but had no idea it was this bad. I bought it from the second owner and he gave the shop he bought it from the what for when he discovered this. Apparently the 1st owner didn't put a drop of oil on the filter gasket before cranking it down and it seized to the block. Check out the damage he did trying to get the filter off. I'm trying to fill in some of the major gouges with some JB weld but it really needs to be TIG welded. Any other suggestions on how to fix this?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 11:31 PM
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could get a remote filter kit and relocate the filter and just seal it to the old mounting surface after some refinishing

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 07:42 AM
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You don't mention if it was leaking oil.

If not, I wouldn't screw with it and the possibility of making it worse.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 09:18 AM
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I would take a nice flat small sanding block with some 400 wet/dry and carefully surface the area. Not to remove the gouges but to knock off all the sharp edges.

Then use some JB weld to fill in the low spots. After it dries use the sanding block again.

Spin on a new filter and see if it leaks. If it does not then you are good to go.

Just keep an eye on it for future leaks developing.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 01:14 PM
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Being as how it was NOT leaking, I would 'knock-down' any HIGH spots, VERY carefully, then spin-on a new filter w/ OILED gasket, fill it w/ oil and ride it watching for leaks. IF it doesn't leak any, or seep... you just MIGHT be OK...!


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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 02:12 PM
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I don't think that that damage was caused from not oiling the oil filter gasket. That looks more like it was dropped on a rough surface without the oil filter being on. More like it fell off some bike stand and hit a brick or concrete block

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 02:34 PM
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Ouch, what a drag! Looks like he took a hammer and chisel to loosen the filter. Wish I had a fix.

I've had spin off oil filters get super tight in the past. I've been able to get them off by drilling a hole all the way through the oil filter well beyond where the threaded area is and then inserting a screw driver through it to spin it off.

There must be 100 Youtube videos on safely removing a stuck spin on oil filter.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 03:13 PM
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yeah, Bob, your probably right. Whatever caused it, it's going to be a bitch to fix. I feel sorry for the owner.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 04:10 PM
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I would file or stone to remove the high metal and install filter. Using fillers JB Weld might let the filler dis bond from the case and the gasket would not have filled the voids = oil leak between the filler and the engine case.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 06:46 PM
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Any sort of welding will need surface machining to get back original dimensions. Best to sand off rough edges and use heavy gasket to tackle the problem. If gasket and other filling method fail then you may need to rework that part of the engine - welding, resurfacing.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 06:50 PM
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I would not hesitate to remove the center stud (for the spin on) and stone it back to flat. within reason of course. if there are really deep pits then clean well and epoxy. a lot of racer guys use epoxy to profile intake ports you know. in the event anything broke loose, it has no where to go.... certainly nothing is going into the engine against oil pressure

I can also think of more elaborate things to do, like making a pilot to put in place of the spin-on stud and using that as a guide for a disc with sand paper. like a spinning surface plate.... solid, with very little slack. I would not even consider welding it.... there is a lot of material there to work with. note that with the stud out, everything is the same surface.... thats how it was milled.

and no, that damage is not from a gasket incident. looks to me like the PO had trouble getting the filter off... guessing he stabbed it with a screwdriver & tore the can and then used a chisel and other harsh tools to a stupid thing

if I'm answering your question I assume the basic points have been addressed, such as: did you do a compression test? is it still on fire?

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Well I've been busy working on this as well as building a hitch mount tire changer (I'll post that up in another thread). Pretty much did what was suggested above. Knocked down the high spots and filled with high temp JB weld and re-filed / sanded. It came out pretty good I think. After I was done I took a new filter and put some layout fluid on the gasket and screwed it on to see the contact area with the block. So I did forget to mention that it was not leaking oil that I could tell. The bike is new to me and don't have enough time with it to tell. I did clean up and degrease the engine before I started this work so I'll be able to tell now. The previous owner would use an extra piece of gasket material in between the filter and the block and he stated it didn't leak.


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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 08:31 AM
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Looks like you a good job. An oil filter has a very thick gasket so it should fill any small voids left.

It looks like the P/O also hit the adapter fitting for the filter, what a hack!! Too cheap to by a filter wrench and used a screwdriver and hammer to take it off.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 12:28 PM
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Man,what a mess you had to repair! Good job.I wonder what other "basic" maintenance was attempted by the culprit. At worst you can do the damage to the filter itself to get it off, its done anyways. I like those modern filters with the built in nut on the outside end , that makes it easier. As long as you dont over-tighten when installing....
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Heywood View Post
Well I've been busy working on this as well as building a hitch mount tire changer (I'll post that up in another thread). Pretty much did what was suggested above. Knocked down the high spots and filled with high temp JB weld and re-filed / sanded. It came out pretty good I think. After I was done I took a new filter and put some layout fluid on the gasket and screwed it on to see the contact area with the block. So I did forget to mention that it was not leaking oil that I could tell. The bike is new to me and don't have enough time with it to tell. I did clean up and degrease the engine before I started this work so I'll be able to tell now. The previous owner would use an extra piece of gasket material in between the filter and the block and he stated it didn't leak.


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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 06:48 AM
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Oil Filter Wrench

Here is what I use 95% of the time, I have 2 other strap type wrenches that haven't been used in years. Not the best photo but it is spring loaded self adjusting and tightens onto the filter turning CCW.I had a case where one of those lube shops changed the oil on my daughters car, next change I offered as I was doing the bike and our car, the filter was installed without oil on the ring and I swear it was tightened with a strap wrench. The wrench in the photo, crushed the filter, in that process the outer edges pulled away from the O ring, off it came.I told my daughter it could have been expensive, that is why I do my own work.



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Last edited by onewizard; 02-05-2019 at 06:57 AM.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 07:38 AM
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12" Channellock oil filter pliers- easy filter removal.

Hand tighten only. I have never had a filter leak, nor one too difficult to remove with pliers.

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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... it could have been expensive, that is why I do my own work.
Exactly! About the only thing I farm out is transmission work. I've had to fix too many "trained mechanic" screw ups rushing the job to get on to the next one.
It's been two days and no leaks so I'll call it good.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 12:24 PM
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Definitely some hammer and chisel work originally but nice job fixing it...

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