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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Versys 650

Hi Versys forum. I am glad to be here. I am 17 years old. After I took the Illinois M/C riding course I bought a used EN500 and rode it for a year and recently traded it for a 2015 Versys ABS 650. I live on a farm and commute to school and ride with my Dad sometimes.
My Versys has 72 miles now. I am still breaking it in. I read on your forum that some say I should change the oil now, but the manual says one thousand miles. The dealer and my Dad said follow the manual, but it makes sense that metal particles would have been loosened by now. Am I hurting anything by waiting 1000 miles? Which do you think makes sense? I would like to do it this weekend before school, Monday.
Thank you
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 04:54 PM
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You are not hurting anything by waiting. But others will say different. Ride it and enjoy.....

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by addendum9 View Post
Hi Versys forum. I am glad to be here. I am 17 years old. After I took the Illinois M/C riding course I bought a used EN500 and rode it for a year and recently traded it for a 2015 Versys ABS 650. I live on a farm and commute to school and ride with my Dad sometimes.
My Versys has 72 miles now. I am still breaking it in. I read on your forum that some say I should change the oil now, but the manual says one thousand miles. The dealer and my Dad said follow the manual, but it makes sense that metal particles would have been loosened by now. Am I hurting anything by waiting 1000 miles? Which do you think makes sense? I would like to do it this weekend before school, Monday.
Thank you
I doubt there are many metal particles these days, but even if there were, you have an oil filter to collect such things.

A guy I worked with bought a new pickup truck and claimed the manual said it only needed to be changed every 9k miles, so that's how long he waited before he did the first one. Truck ran fine before and after.

I think the motorcycle keeps this 600-1000 mile new bike checkup practice going, because it is a boon for the dealers. Charge $300 to do an oil change and pretend they are tightening a bunch of bolts that were doused in thread lock at the factory.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 07:26 PM
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I would think that frequent oil changes are never a BAD thing.. But, I did my first one at 300 miles. I did, however, use conventional oil until I reached 1000 miles. For whatever reason, that's the gospel.

Order a magnetic drain bolt and stick some magnets at the end of the filter, they'll help collect some of those little particles. Have fun and ride her!


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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 07:39 PM
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I agree but you don't need to. BUT I did my first change at 100 miles with Shell Rotella T, that's right tractor oil! Works great I use it in my KLR (33,000 trouble free miles) all the time. The Versys only needs a couple of Qts and a bit, I found I use 2.2 or so with a filter. The filter will be the costliest part of the change.

PS I'm a cheap KLR rider and think oil is MUCH cheaper than motors are. So I likely change more than I need to BUT sleep better at night because of it.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 07:41 PM
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You can get a Bosh 3300 oil filter for about 5 bucks at an Auto Parts Store.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 12:48 AM
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Changed it at 200 miles and had a good look at it. Lots of metal particles for sure.

Like Weljo said don't worry if you wait no problem. These V's are awesome!

I waited until after two thousand to put in synthetic oil. This was suggested to me from Kawi for breakin period.

1000's of guys with different breakins and all come out great!





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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 02:27 AM
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 03:56 AM
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

You may as well complete your first break-in phase and change the oil now, to take care of your new engine from the start... Conventional 10W-40 motorcycle oil for the first change, then synthetic. I gave it a good gradual break-in over the first riding day, doing acceleration runs at wide open throttle up to redline by the end of the day, and changed the oil at 140 miles.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-...e-Oil/16879749

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-...10W40/16777818

Walmart USA now sells only Bosch's premium Distance Plus oil filter, which is a great choice. Available in the taller (3.25" instead of 2.5") size.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bosch-Dist...lters/17243918

http://www.walmart.com/ip/FRAM-Xtend...ilter/16878930

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 07:32 AM
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In an an alum alloy engine with hardened alum cylinder walls there are not many steel particles to be attracted to a magnetic drain plug.

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 08:03 AM
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I did my first oil change with the 600 mile first service, and switched over to full synthetic at that point.

It's awesome that you are into the sport and can ride with your Dad! Welcome to the forum!! Also glad you took the rider training!

And that link Invader posted - that's how I've broken in my bikes, once I learned of it. My gsxr was mostly broken in on the racetrack.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 12:08 PM
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Why not change it? You'd be doing the best possible for the engine whether it helps it or not. You are looking at probabilities, and since you have the chance now, do you feel lucky? Well do you? Ha ha, I'd do it if I had a chance.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Versys Forum. Dad and I rode to town (~12 miles) to Walmart, but they only had synthetic oil and none of the motorcycle filters recommended on the forum. Then we rode to Oreilly Auto store and they only had synthetic oil, so we bought 10W40 ATV petroleum oil JASO-rated and a WIX 51358 filter that my Dad uses in his VN900 ($22 total).
After we got home, I changed the oil and filter while Dad watched. I used his filter wrench that fits on the end of the filter can. Had to use a long wrench to break loose the factory filter, but it slowly backed out and wasn’t too bad.
After 102 miles, the old oil was brown with sudsy swirls and light streaks. It was not clear – more of a chocolate syrup. I didn’t see any metal particles, though. I plan to do it again at 600 miles and then use synthetic after one thousand miles.
I have a Kawasaki warrantee, but no service agreement, so I want to do as much stuff as I can at home. Thanks for all your good responses. It really gave me the confidence to tell the clerks what I wanted for my bike. And, I will really feel good riding to school tomorrow morning.
By the way, Dad says it was a whole lot easier than his Vulcan.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 05:50 PM
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Good job, learning to take care of your bike is the best thing you can do. I almost never take a bike to the shop unless it's cheaper than me buying special tools to do a job.

A trick that was pass down to me on this board is to make a little chute cover for the header pipes out of tin foil so the oil that pours out of the filter will drain into the pan and not all over them and stink like an oil fire for a week!

One other thing you can do that's very easy but can save you a bundle is to lube the clutch cable and ferrell (the end of the cable). I simply loosen the cable and pop it out and then drip a few drops of 3 in 1 oil down the inner cable to lube the cable itself. When I put it back together I dab a little grease on the ferrell before I slip it back in the clutch lever to keep it free. Look and you'll see how many cables break right at the end there because they were never greased and the ferrell froze in the lever.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 06:18 PM
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 05:01 AM
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Awesome! Great job starting out learning maintenance procedures. You'll save yourself a ton of money and have the satisfaction of learning about your machine. Other things to start with would be chain clean/lube/adjustment, and when it's needed (once a year) brake fluid flush. Get yourself the service manual. I think it may be available for downloading online. It'll have everything in it you need for maintenance and repairs, all torque specs, etc.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 07:20 AM
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 12:13 PM
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Most people don't keep a bike long enough or put enough miles on it for this to really matter. You can find 30 year old bikes with 20,000 miles on them every day.

I change my oil every 5000 miles because it is easy to remember. Sometimes sooner because the shifting gets a little stiff. Of course, for those that don't ride 5000 miles a year, changing before putting it in storage is a good idea.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 03:53 PM
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I agree but you don't need to. BUT I did my first change at 100 miles with Shell Rotella T, that's right tractor oil! Works great I use it in my KLR (33,000 trouble free miles) all the time....


The Rotella "tractor oil" is PERFECT for KLRs, because KLRs ARE tractors!




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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 03:57 PM
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The Rotella "tractor oil" is PERFECT for KLRs, because KLRs ARE tractors!



I once told a friend, after he said my KLR sounded like his lawnmower, that if his lawnmower sounds like my KLR he needs to get it to the shop...FAST.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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