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Just bought my Versys

6K views 51 replies 20 participants last post by  Versys206 
#1 ·
My Stator has failed for the second time. The factory unit at 44,000, and now today it's aftermarket replacement at 75,500. What has been the conclusion as to upgrading to the Compufire series R/R. My orig R/R has no signs of heat at any of the connections and when I do the impedance test per the manual I get resistance on way and none the other This tells me it's prolly rectifying from AC to DC, but it does not tell me if it's regulating at a predetermined point, and shunting to ground. Although before the new stator went up in smoke my voltmeter was peaking around 14-1/2 DC.

I'm looking for someone to confirm that the Compufire series RR is a good decision.

{ Onewizard} Caution , for those reading this thread, I COPIED POSTS FROM https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/16774-burnt-stator-stator-testing.html That seemed relevant to the CompuFire Install, much more discussion in that thread .

Also before attempting a install read the testing threads, testing should be done before changing to Series regulator

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...tator-testing-device-load-ratings-2015-a.html

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...-far-can-you-ride-battery-without-stator.html

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...related-those-converted-series-regulator.html
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Polaris Regulator Install 2017 Revised / Brake Trigger

As requested a simplified version of my original Polaris install thread, with 95% install instructions, 5% is explanation!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Revision using Relay / Starter Solenoid Ground

I have come up with a third method of installing a Polaris or Compufire regulator without cutting the headlight relay pin #2 wire or removing the gas tank. That is the good news. You need to access the main fuse / start solenoid area, if you follow my posts with the diode in place photo you will see the diode across a yellow with red tracer wire on the left and a black with yellow tracer on the right. The black yellow needs to be cut and a relay spliced into the circuit, using a normally open contact. The coil circuit needs to be connected to a keyed on circuit, closest is the tail light license plate light, Red wire.

How it works, keying on will energize the tail light, energizing the relay and complete the ground circuit of the start solenoid, which happens to be the ground for the headlight relay , breaking this connection will remove the 38 milliamp relay coil current when keyed off. The difference is this ground carries the coil current of the start solenoid during starting, about 2 amp, and the headlight relay of about 50 milliamp, once started the only current is the 50 milliamp headlight relay. So you could use a Omron relay like the accessories relay, which would be overkill as to current rating. I haven't tried this but according to the drawing it should work.


Someone wants to try this let me know, one thing is you need to be able to solder or have experience in using wire crimps, when I say experience, the level of a good electrician with proper crimping pliers. Not done right your bike won't start and no headlight. This would take me more time in cutting the tape back on the harness to expose 3 inches of conductor than it would to crimp. The coil circuit of the added relay should be soldered to the red tail light wire and the ground of the relay coil circuit could go to frame ground or crimped under the black yellow that is going to frame ground that you just cut, ( in case someone is following this, when I refer to the wire you just cut, not the socket side).


:feedback:
 
#4 · (Edited)
Plug & Play

I have begun reading this thread, but I know that I do not have the time to internalize it all. I have an '08 with just about 30,000 miles on it and I do not want to have it fail due to a bad stator. I would like to put a series R/R on my machine.

Two questions:
1 - Are there any plug-and-play series regulators? By this I mean an R/R that will bolt in and plug in without modification to my Versys, and
Short answer no, fundamentally there is a problem as Furukawa FSW 6-Pin connector is only made in the male configuration http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1103106-post16.html , if a male version was made then it would be a matter of connecting to a Triumph harness T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator $9.27 - 2WheelPros and my latest mod with the solenoid ground.
As to identical footprint , yes to the Polaris and no to the CompuFire , as it is larger and the fins are 90' , also Compufire has a 35 amp output when the stator can only produce 25 amp, so a bit over kill.


2 - What stators are plug-and-play? I see that Ricks sells a stator for the '08 Versys, but I am not sure that it works without modifications to the Versys.

I really would like a quick solution to this problem. I have a lot of faith in my Versys, but I am worried that I will be left stranded by it at some point because of the stator. I do not want to stop using the bike because I am concerned about its reliability.

Thanks for any information.
As to stators, OEM is Delta connected which is a connection used for higher current output, Y or Star connected is designed for higher voltage output and is typically the connection on all aftermarket stators because they cheat and use a single 18 gauge wire, when they should be two 18 gauge. So if you use a stator like RM or other Star connected you need a series regulator http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1349658-post18.html
As to plug and play, all stators sold specifically for the Versys come with the connector in place, however buyer beware,
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/124601-stator-oem-vs-ricks-stator.html
 
#5 ·
Excellent Post

The problem has been solved sort of in a weird outcome. I referred to onewizard's post for testing it all came weirdly consistent. I ended up pretty much checking everything.

Okay so the problem turned out to be really strange. Nothing like this I've seen in my entire life.

So today morning the bike did start but it immediately went off once I wanted to take out for a test spin.

So I opened up the entire thing and checked connections across all points, cleaned up the grounding points. Even the battery would show 12.8V at rest. It even started once like I mentioned.


Checked for continuity across the wires from ignition key, rectifier and what not.


Cleaned up the kill switch as there was dust all over inside and slightly grimy. Used a degreaser and rust remover water soluble. Washed with distilled water and used a blower to dry the switch and then sprayed a little bit of anti rust hydrophobic spray.


This seems to be the main chassis ground and there was plenty of rust around this point. Cleaned and refitted.


BUT TO NO AVAIL. IT WOULDN'T START.

SO what turned out to be the problem ? The battery itself. I took the battery to a battery shop for load testing. The first test cycle it passed as normal. Then when the guy picked the battery to check on another bench it failed. He then took it back to the first bench and it failed again ! I leave the battery with them for further tests as it's oddly defective.

Few hours later I get a call after they opened the battery since it was deemed failed and since it was under warranty an inspection report needs to be made. Turns out the battery has an internal short due to a part broken inside. When the part did not contact anything its not supposed to, the battery would work normally but when it moved due to jerk or vibration it would short out and cause an instant drop causing a total shutdown. Since this battery is an AGM Sealed Battery there is no visual cue from outside like with older batteries in which you need to add electrolyte time to time.

What the actual hell!



So it did turn out to a battery issue with a quirk !

All that effort in opening up the bike and now putting it back :p:p now I have to wait for a 5 days until the new battery is in.
The battery came to mind but because of previous information from you I knew it had been changed. Good thing you have someone with a proper battery load tester .I intend to stick this thread until I figure out where I want to put it. It has become obvious that my Polaris threads are too numerous, and I need to stream line them. Also inline photos. Right now that is time I don't have to spare.
 
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#6 ·
Rectifier Upgrade to fix Stator Coil Issue :

All credit goes to onewizard and others who have successfully retrofitted the Polaris SH775 Series Regulator. There are plenty of texts and posts to read about the matter which can be daunting at first. Piece it all together and the upgrade is clearly beneficial. This post is however working with a Ninja 650 (2012-2016) and the location of the regulator is different. The sockets and wiring are the same however.

A little info
Stator coil seems to be the Achilles Heel in the 650 platform. The OEM Regulator is a shunt type regulator which only works in a rather inefficient way. To put it in simple words the shunt regulator keeps the stator loaded at near maximum at all times during operation. The excess current not needed by the motorcycle after subtracting electrical loads is grounded. This eventually leads to the stator shorting or burning a few poles due to aging of the insulation material due to the heat generated. Its like a dam reservoir is open 100% but only a bucketful of water is taken from the outflow and the rest is wasted downstream.

In retrospect the series regulator varies the output current by referencing the voltage across the load. The series regulator will not draw current if there is no load. If load increases it will react to the change to let in more current until the desired voltage is maintained. Therefore the series regulator is much more efficient and the benefit of this is that it does not unnecessarily load the stator coil to provide current. This results in a much more prolonged life of the stator

This is what the burned out stator will look like, a few poles blackened out.


Brand new coil from a 2016 N650, note that the coil is slightly different and there is no epoxy coat over the poles to dissipate heat better.



Before you begin

- Disconnect and remove the battery from the motorcycle and put it on a battery tender to keep it charged up.

- Tools and misc stuff needed for a neat job :

Air blower (to blow the dust away before you start taking apart the gas tank, airbox)
Sellotape (to cover the exposed throttle body, pcv tube, secondary air valve intake at top of the cylinder head cap, fuel line from dust)

Wire Strippers,
Soldering iron (solder wire, flux paste, de soldering wire etc )
Insulation tape
Heat Shrink tubing
Electrical Insulation spray

Multimeter / Voltmeter (ac/dc)

Components needed to be bought

Polaris SH775BA Series Regulator
IMPORTANT NOTE : Buying used will greatly save cost like I did buying from ebay.com, but make sure that in the product image you can see the SH775BA stamped on the rectifier itself. There are plenty of cheap chinese unbranded regualtors that look the same but will not have this part no stamped on them. Stay away from these as their construction and reliability is completely unknown. Brand new polaris rectifier is around $160 [ part no : REGULATOR-3PH,35A,SERIES,105C (4012941)]



New Stator Coil for the 650 OEM recommended.
The OEM stator is a delta wound stator with much more copper against the aftermarket replacements which use a Y winding pattern to save on copper costs.


Triumph Link Lead
This can be ordered from T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator $10.00 - 2WheelPros , they also ship internationally partnered with a shipping service.


Stator Cover Gasket
Since Kawasaki India pretty much sucks hardcore, they did not have a single gasket in the entire country in stock. So I made my own with laser cutting done on gasket material. The stock gasket is a graphite coated reusable gasket so if you pry off the gasket carefully you will not need a new one. Mine was damaged in removal so needed a new one. This gasket material is normal and not reusable.




I am not covering the stator installation and testing as its completely shown in the workshop manual, along with the ac voltage check across the three pin socket coming from the stator itself.


POLARIS RECTIFIER UPGRADE

On the ninja 650 the rectifier is located in the middle of the chassis directly below the steering lock.
To get to this you will need to remove the gas tank, the airbox, the secondary air valve.

Before you remove the airbox use the blower to blow away any loose dust as the throttle body will be exposed to unwanted matter.
After the airbox is removed, use sellotape to cover the throttle body ports, as well as the tubes connected to the engine and also the secondary air valve intake port on the cylinder head. Also cover the fuel line. I also removed the ECU to avoid dangling it on the side, also covered the ecu socket with sellotape.



After the secondary air valve is removed, it is possible to take out the rectifier. You have two 10mm bolts to loosen to remove the rectifier. There is a clip on each bolt to keep the wiring above the rectifier tidy and in place. Do not forget to install these back during reassembly.


Now remove the stock regulator from the socket, and then cut the female socket on the wiring harness to an approximate length below. This length will allow you to go stock if you want to sell the motorcycle.


Then take the triumph link lead and cut these two connectors off. The postive and negative dc lead each split into two wires which we dont need.



CONNECTING THE NEW SOCKETS
Before joining the wire slide the heat shrink tubes over each wire and push them away as far as possible from the point of wire join as solder heat can cause the heat shrink to.. shrink.

To join the wires I joined them interwoven and soldered them (inline wire splice), then wrapped in electrical tape and then the heat shrink was moved over (shrunk later after testing), the wires from each side had about an inch and half of exposed wire so that the solder and connection is strong enough. While joining the wires please keep some sort of metal sheet below the work area to avoid dropping solder on the motorcycle components. Also make sure to wear safety eyewear and not breath in the solder fumes.

Now take the triumph lead socket with three pins and connect the three black wires to the exposed black three wires from the wiring harness, order is not important.


Then take the other two pin socket of the triumph lead and join the brown wire from the lead to the white wire from the regulator. Both the white wires from the wiring harness end up as one so its okay to join them as one. The black ground of the socket goes to the yellow black wire from the bike.


This is what the new socket setup looks like. I then wrapped all the five wires with an eletrical insulation tape to keep the wires tidy.


Spray the female sockets with an hydrophobic insulation spray like this. Then couple them to the newly installed rectifier.


Now connect the polaris rectifier and install it back. This regulator causes a bit of a problem to slide back due to size of the sockets getting obstructed in the little space in the chassis. Move the rectifier in gently and dont damage the connectors while doing so. Here's what I mean.


After putting back everything together, reinstalling the battery, voila, Success ! 14V on my onboard voltmeter !
 
#7 ·
Polaris regulator install - Gen 3 650s. Revised 2018

A new series regulator has come on the market, very close to the price of the 412941 Polaris before they jacked the price. I have no experience at this time however I am considering buying one in Canada and doing some tests. Since this is a new product made for Polaris, not everyone has stock. I am posting those that have stock and a good price. New number is 4016868

https://www.polarispartshouse.com/oemparts/p/polaris/4016868/regulator-3ph-50a-series-hispd
4016868 Polaris Regulator - 3PH,50A,SERIES,HISPD $85.64 - 2WheelPros
https://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/part-number/4016868

https://www.partzilla.com/product/polaris/4016868 more $$$$
 
#8 ·
Polaris & CompuFire install MK-1 to 3 Updated to 2018

A new series regulator has come on the market, very close to the price of the 412941 Polaris before they jacked the price. I have no experience at this time however I am considering buying one in Canada and doing some tests. Since this is a new product made for Polaris, not everyone has stock. I am posting those that have stock and a good price. New number is 4016868

https://www.polarispartshouse.com/oemparts/p/polaris/4016868/regulator-3ph-50a-series-hispd
4016868 Polaris Regulator - 3PH,50A,SERIES,HISPD $85.64 - 2WheelPros
https://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/part-number/4016868

https://www.partzilla.com/product/polaris/4016868 more $$$$
 
#9 ·
Tools, T&B Crimps/ Crimpers/ Proper Crimp/ 4012941 C/W SEW Wire

The orange / black handle is T&B crimper, my favorite, even though it says non insulated, it works fine.




Various strippers and crimpers, I have several expensive crimpers designed for molex crimps and for the kawasaki crimps,1st is over $200 and 2nd close to $100. The main reason for mentioning cost of crimpers is directly related to the Triumph harness, the T&B sells for around $30-$40 , also shown is the Channel Lock blue handle , which works similar to the T&B, not shown is the Ideal crimper which instead of a indent, it creates a I , compressed crimp,also pictured is the Greenlee stripper crimper ( green handles), which doesn't have the same leverage as the T&B



T&B crimps, yellow is 10 gauge, blue is 14/16 gauge



A trick I use to increase surface area when using a larger gauge crimp with a smaller gauge wire, notice the wire doubled over, strip double the length required and double over, you now insert into the larger gauge crimp, which gives double the copper within the crimp, and more surface area.The orange with black tracer is doubled over. Also the extreme right is a red / pink crimp with a regular striped method as this is a 16 gauge fork crimp, the reason I show different gauges, is sometimes you are needing, 10, 14 and 16 gauge crimps for a single job, buying a single package of just 10 gauge can work using my method of doubling or tripling over the stripped copper.


The blue crimp is the T&B crimp the red / pink is similar to the Ideal and most other crimpers



One of the 4012941 Polaris Regulators with a homemade harness using SEW stranded 200'C wire and red high temperature silicone , included was a length of blue wire and a positap for triggering the headlight relay

 
#11 ·
NO joke. Maybe I am embellishing a bit but I promise it is burning about a pint every 400-600 miles, no smoke, no problems, just took it in for the second oil change a bit ago. I found a better recommended shop I'll have it looked at. Either way could someone fill me in on whether synthetic will hurt my engine like the dealer ja telling me? They are saying i shouldn't use synthetic and that this Bike is prone to burning oil like this because I had them call Kawasaki because I have protection plus warranty and they said Kawasaki said this Bike is known to burn oil like crazy. Like I said I found a recommended shop I'll take it to so they can give me a better idea. Either way if anyone could till me in on whether full synthetic is a good idea and what kind i should use that would be great!
Don't take it the wrong way but, what country are you in, as this post resembles a spammer. The comment about Kawasaki stating it is known to burn oil, seems like a bit of misinformation. Lots of X300 members on here from the very first introduction of the model. So tell us what country and where you are. I am watching closely, a response in less than 48 hours is recommended.
 
#12 ·
Why would I be spamming???? That makes zero sense. You want my social also? Very rude. My username is literally my name I live in Davis California and PCP motorsports in Sacramento that sold me the bike told me that is Exactly what Kawasaki told them, that this bike is prone to burning oil. I seriously just want help understanding my new Bike and also if I should use full synthetic. You can watch this post all you want, I have no idea why someone would waste their time making something up like this, that is silly my friend. I am typing off my phone so I made a few spelling errors big whoop buddy. Goodness gracious

Sincerely,

Max Houben DM if you want my number buddy
 
#13 ·
Good Morning All,

I am checking in from Auburn, AL, and just purchased my '19 650 ABS last week. I took her for her first ride earlier this morning and woah was that different than I am accustomed to. A little background about me - I rode some dirtbike on the local trails and some farms in my teenage years but did not ride for over 20 years after that. Last year I seem to have hit that post-divorce mid-life crisis; I went back to school for a doctorate, got a much younger (12 years) girlfriend :grin2: and bought a Honda Shadow Phantom as my first street bike. Despite being a beautiful bike, the Shadow just did not work for me being 6'2". So I sold it and started scouring the web for a low-mileage, late model street-touring bike. I had my eye on the VStrom, Versys and FJ09. Last week I found a semi-local dealer with 2 new '19 650's at a bargain price so I jumped at it, and drove the hour drive the next day to purchase it.

As I said above, the 650 was a lot different than I am accustomed to. The first mile or two had me really questioning getting a bike I sat upright on. A few miles later and I began to really sink into the bike and started getting a feel for her. I love the increased agility and braking, relative to my former Shadow, and by the time my 30-mile ride was over I had discovered I really like the bike.

Now it's time to start adding this and that to the bike, starting with handlebar risers to get this tall frame in some better angles. I hope to see some of you out on the roads around here but unfortunately, I have only seen two other Versys' in town here. If you're in/around Auburn, chime in or send me a message. I'm ready to have this break-in done so I can really start to enjoy the bike.

TC
 
#34 ·
Hi, and welcome to what I have found to be a very helpful forum, with a great group of people.

I have a 2017 Versys 650, and have swapped out the stock windscreen for a Givi, as well as added SW Motech centerstand and crash bars.

The stock windscreen I suspect is worse than no windscreen at all, at highway speeds - in fact, I wish I had tested mine without a windscreen before putting the Givi on. I like the Givi, but it's pretty big, and if I look at the road in front of the bike, I'm looking through the windscreen. I'd really rather have a smaller windscreen that just directed the air a little better. Just a nitpick, of course - I'm very happy with my current setup.

The centerstand is, to me, an absolute must have, although it does make checking the chain slack a little more difficult.

Oh, I've also put in a USB charger/voltage meter.

I'm a little surprised that you feel the need for risers - I'm also 6'2", and I feel like the bike really fits me, including the height of the bars. To each their own, of course.

Again, welcome, and enjoy that Versys!
 
#14 ·
Best Newbie (To the Versys) Mods

As my introduction post in this forum said, I just got my Versys and took my first ride. I already have my eye on numerous upgrades (crash bars, sliders, grip pads, handlebar risers, tank bag, led lights.....) but I am curious to hear what other new Versys riders found to be the most beneficial immediate upgrades. I am thinking the risers and a tank bag will be my first and most useful upgrades, but I'd love to hear from experience.

TC
 
#16 ·
Probably crash bars or sliders, spools in order to be able to pick up the bike for chain maintenance, heated grips if you have cold weather (in conjunction with handguards) are also game changer. I also installed a tire hugger, but it is not as useful as it seems, but the fender extender really is! . I also use my topcase A LOT. Hope that helps!

As my introduction post in this forum said, I just got my Versys and took my first ride. I already have my eye on numerous upgrades (crash bars, sliders, grip pads, handlebar risers, tank bag, led lights.....) but I am curious to hear what other new Versys riders found to be the most beneficial immediate upgrades. I am thinking the risers and a tank bag will be my first and most useful upgrades, but I'd love to hear from experience.

TC
 
#15 ·
I’ve had my 2019 v650LT for less than 3 months. Have added 1 1/2 inch motowerk risers ,Puig Touring screen,Givi rear rack & Givi 40 liter topcase also put on some Grip Puppies. If you decide to put on risers definitely put on 1 1/2 “ instead of the 1 inches. Once you fully get use to the upright riding position you’ll never want to be in any other position. My other BIKE is a 2017 Z900 & I definitely Refer the Riding in a full upright position that my V650 with the extra added riser height. At first it felt like having mini ape hangers but now it feels natural.
First long week trip planned for mid September fully loaded with camping gear 1000+trip .
Enjoy Your New VERSYS!!!
 
#22 ·
Thanks Modene, those motowerk risers are exactly the style I have been looking for but I have only been able to find (cheap?) Chinese ones on Ebay/Amazon and during my Shadow days I read numerous stories of people stripping out the threads on those. I have also come across the SW-Motech ones, but I do not like how the male indentations are flat which leaves a gap in the bottom of the female recession; that said, they do come in 50mm (~2"). Do you mind if I ask how tall you are to compare if the 1.5" risers will be tall enough for me?

Most of your other upgrades are on my list, except I had never seen the Grip Puppies and now I am intrigued by them.

I sat on a Z900 while shopping and it was far too far forward for me. The MT09 (also a naked street bike) however has an excellent position and was on my list until I saw someone pull 0-60 in under 2.5 (some sites say it's capable of 2.2) mostly on one wheel.

Enjoy that trip in September.
 
#17 ·
I bought my V650 almost a month ago, roughly ~800 miles so far. If you plan to do much highway/higher speed long trips changing the front sprocket from 15T to 16T was a HUGE game changer for me. Raising the gearing just a mere ~400 rpms or so at the 65 mph range has been an unbelievable change for the better, IMO. All goes back to riding style and preference though.
 
#44 ·
Great at sea level, if you live at higher elevation you will want to keep your stock gearing, that little twin needs all the help it can get up here in the rockies.

Definitely ditch the stock tires as soon as convenient, they are awful. I would recommend Michelin Road 5s or Pirelli Angel GTs if you are planning to stay on pavement most of the time, the improvement in handling is night and day vs the crummy dunlops that come on the V650 stock (which is odd because the V1000 comes with Bridgestone T31s which are actually good tires). Also don't forget to set up the suspension, it is firm enough to handle the weight of a larger rider, I'm a big guy myself and actually don't have the preload maxed at either end, despite absolutely wailing on the bike in the canyons.
 
#18 ·
You picked one of the most do-it-all bikes out there.

I’ve got a 17’ Model 650 LT and took it up to Alaska this June (from upstate NY), I’m in the process of moving down to northern Alabama right now.

Having been through faster bikes I’m appreciating the fuel economy and using 87 octane with the 650, it’s got really good touring range as well compared to everything except the GSA/Stelvio and a few others than get over 250 miles to a tank, that’s not a common feature in motorcycles and it was very nice going to Alaska and never worrying about fuel (i didn’t bring any spare can).

If it’s cramped in the knees or the bars are too low it’s easy to add risers or lower the pegs a bit (or highway pegs) to get you in the comfort zone. I rode mine 27 days strait at around 9-10 hours a day.

Power is pretty good but if you came off a 1000cc sport bike then you’ll miss the quick passes a bit. Otherwise it’s quick enough and you gain all the benefits of cheaper chains and longer tire life plus much cheaper insurance. I havn’t not been able to keep up with anything on a twisty road yet.

The FJ09/Tracer 900 was tempting but I won’t even consider a bike that I have to fill up under 200 miles. (Around 180 typical fuel up on that one, 200 to empty but who does that.)

I didn’t mod mine much, puig touring screen which is great for me, i added a blue sea temp gauge in the right punch out and a dual usb voltmeter in the left (Q.C 3.0). I use a QC 25k mah battery pack on trips which soaks up a full charge so i can charge my camera battery’s, headset, flashlight and phone in the tent which is super convienient. I installed the SW motech GPS mount over the display with a Tomtom Rider 550 for GPS.

The Stock luggage and a enduristan Duffel worked great for the long trip. For a weekend the Versys has great luggage space and no problem packing for a weekend camping trip with them. Its got the best luggage I’ve had on any bike to date, nicely integrated too.

I don’t know if they fixed with the the 19 but my stock chain lived a short life (8k miles) so be aware of that if you plan on a longer trip and carry a spare/replace it before hand.
 
#19 ·
#26 ·
Line up the free time and get to Alaska, you won’t regret it. The Versys will do the trip just fine. It’s not a dirtbike but it’ll do gravel at slower speeds ok. I stuck to mostly pavement on my trip. California coastline north through the redwoods is a must see as well. Southern Utah (state route 12) and the black hills are also great destinations, as is Newfoundland if you want to go up to the northeast and the Gaspe peninsula.
 
#33 ·
I took the bike out for the 2nd ride this evening which was cut short by impending rain. The things I learned were: I) I definitely need risers and the additional pullback from fixed risers would be welcomed II) engine braking is new to me coming from cruiser riding. And after reading the forums more III) don't baby it is as much (3k-4k rpm); rev it on up a bit but not for extended periods of time. Ride it a bit more (46 miles on the clock) at alternated revs before that initial oil change, which I planned on doing this week before riding again. I hope to put another 15 miles or so on it this week working from 3k to 6k~7k rpm and then change the oil in conjunction with installing the toy's I ordered today. I will then change the oil again somewhere around 600 mi and then take her for a full service/break in service around 1k mi.
 
#36 ·
The Versys is perfectly happy going right to redline and living at 7-9k RPM if your riding sporty. It hates life at 3k rpm and below, keep it up at 4k and above like 4-6k for just cruising around. This is a Japanese bulletproof engine, fear not the rev’s.

Check out these two videos. Keep in mind they run these engines to redline right off the factory floor in testing. It’s essentially ready to go, but you have to get used to the bike, hence the guidelines in the manual to let you break-in to riding the new bike. Ari Henning broke in two identical engines via the aggressive Motoman method and the factory manual method and it made no difference after they pulled the engines apart for inspection. I think Ryan F9 did a great job explaining in they’re usual high quality video’s.




https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/busting-engine-break-in-myth/
 
#43 ·
Regarding the risers, what do you guys think about the damping option? ROX currently offers a version in ‘17+ but motowerk only has a gen1,gen2 option. Jw if it is something worth paying the extra $100 for. I did the sprocket change for 15t to 16t on the front and the bib at highway speed is wayyyyy less but just wondering what you guys think.
 
#48 ·
Regarding the risers, what do you guys think about the damping option? ROX currently offers a version in ‘17+ but motowerk only has a gen1,gen2 option. Jw if it is something worth paying the extra $100 for....
One of my ROX RISERS has the "damping option", while the other doesn't. Do I notice a difference?

NOPE. (And it's my '08 that has the "damping option".)

>:)
 
#47 ·
...I very rarely use the lock. If someone wants your bike they are going to take it anyways. 2 people and a bar under the triple tree can move a bike any where they want....
I always park my Vs w/ the steering locked as it gives some protection in the event it falls (or gets knocked) over.
 
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