3100 miles and not ridden in 3 years: good or bad deal? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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3100 miles and not ridden in 3 years: good or bad deal?

Hey all, not a versys owner yet but I'm actively looking. Already garnered a pile of useful information from here, and will be coming back again and again. Thanks all. Jono.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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3100 miles and not ridden in 3 years: good or bad deal?

So I'm looking at a Versys 650 here in Oz. 2014 January delivery, has 3100 miles / 5000km . The owner hasn't ridden it hardly at all in the last three years.
Really keen to know if this is a a great opportunity or on the contrary, anything to be aware of.

Note: bike not damaged, dropped in any way. Just been under a sheet in the guys garage for the last three years.
Questions:
- would you buy a bike that's been mostly dormant for 3 years?
- what kind of things can go 'off' when a bike isn't ridden for a long time?

I'm assuming that I'll change all the fluids first thing.
Keen to hear any advice....

Last edited by Jono_Melb; 01-03-2019 at 10:35 PM. Reason: update
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 10:34 PM
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If the bike had been store well, there should be no problem with bike. Warm it up and hear how it sound.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Fastoman.
I'm wondering if gaskets or other components 'dry out' after continued lack of use.
Be good to hear some other opinions on this.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 07:16 AM
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Just sitting is not that good if it wasn't prepared for sitting.

Even if the fuel had stabilizer in it, I would drain it and put in fresh fuel before starting it up.

If it was prepared for sitting it will just need the routine maintenance caught up.

I bought a 10 year old bike with 3000 miles on it and once I changed fluids and filters it was good to go.

I also bought a 4 year old bike with 3000 miles on it that had a few oil leaks that sorted themselves out once the gaskets got pliable again.

If you get it for a price that includes any surprises you might find, and you are capable of doing your own work then go for it.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 08:22 AM
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Check for dry-rotted/cracked tires, too.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 12:43 PM
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jono_Melb View Post
So I'm looking at a Versys 650 here in Oz. 2014 January delivery, has 3100 miles / 5000km . The owner hasn't ridden it hardly at all in the last three years.
Really keen to know if this is a a great opportunity or on the contrary, anything to be aware of.

Note: bike not damaged, dropped in any way. Just been under a sheet in the guys garage for the last three years.
Questions:
- would you buy a bike that's been mostly dormant for 3 years?
- what kind of things can go 'off' when a bike isn't ridden for a long time?

I'm assuming that I'll change all the fluids first thing.
Keen to hear any advice....
I intend to start looking on Gumtree myself in about 5 months, may be a X300 though. Where about's is it? Also expect to change the brake fluid, I would myself do a valve shim check , as it is possible the stick coils are rusted in, and the air filter may need to be cleaned. While you do this I would bring out the capped vacuum lines, that way a TB sync is easily done later, since a lot of time involved in getting the plastic off. Info c/w photos on DIYS is on this forum in How To.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 12:59 PM
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jono_Melb View Post
Thanks Fastoman.
I'm wondering if gaskets or other components 'dry out' after continued lack of use.
Be good to hear some other opinions on this.
Now that you had all the feed back, get the bike running and see what is missing and you take it form there. Ride the bike and it will come to you. Be safe and enjoy your ride.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Such good info. I'll attmpt to reply to each commenter in turn. Thanks lads, I really appreciate this.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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Onewizard, thanks for the advice. I reckon that I could not be bothered to do a valve shim check for a 5000km bike. However the fluids and filters, yeah for sure.

The bike would not be able to get a cert of roadworthiness with cracked tires but still a very good point.

I plan to do my own valve shim check at about 30,000km and I'll be learning this from here of course.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 05:24 AM Thread Starter
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Twowheeladdict - you sound like a man who knows his stuff. I appreciate this advice, I reckon you're on the money.

I'll see how I get on with this bike. The owner has been very reticent to drop the price and insists it's almost new despite all the points you have alluded to.

Food for thought. Thanks again.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 09:37 AM
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I would be very cautious about a bike that's not been ridden for years unless the owner pickled it or is willing to give a very good price. Hidden problems are more likely with a bike that has just sat unused.

Definitely I would plan on replacing the tires. OEM tires were pretty bad to begin with, but they'll be pretty dried out and hard by now.

Not being smarter, I would worry about internal engine corrosion. Cylinder walls, piston rings, valve train. Any oil on those surfaces has long ago evaporated or dripped off.

Possible blockage of oil passages. Either congealing of the oil or the settling out of particulates.

I was burned on an old bike that the seller had put a lot of care into fixing up for his wife who didn't want it. Then it sat. Fork seals were bad, all the hoses needed to be replaced, and the fuel system was gummed up. New tires, new carb, etc. I put way more into bringing it back to life than it was worth! I could have purchased one new for less than I put into that old bike.

The bike you're looking at is 5 years old, so it is due for all the fluids and hoses to be replaced. Throttle cables and clutch cable probably should be replaced in case there is corrosion hiding. I'd replace the oil before starting the engine, then after running the engine briefly flush it again. Smart money would be to use a pre-oiler electric pump to flush the engine with fresh oil before even starting it, but idk if that is even possible with these engines. I would want to inspect the cylinders with a bore scope before starting it up, to ensure there are no rust spots/pits.

Last edited by Fly-Sig; 01-05-2019 at 09:44 AM.
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