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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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Hi from Greece

I own a Versys (2009) and in search of a problem i came upon this fantastic forum

Greeitngs to all
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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And i m hoping to find some answers that i can t find elsewhere
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 06:49 AM
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What are you having difficulties with?
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 09:35 AM
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Welcome From Canada

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ber-intro.html

I did a double take on the join date of May 2018, I guess you joined and never posted. This is your thread, post away, however it will be 51 hours from your last post to full membership.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 12:57 PM
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 02:14 PM
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 01:46 AM
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Post your problem when you are ready.,
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 08:43 PM
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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thank you all for your warm welcome.
10 years and 122000 km after i purchased my versys all mechanical things work great. The electrical system seems to fail the last 8 months. changed my stator coil twice, my regulator twice, main fuse box once. i think it all started from a chinese battery my mechanic put on. i changed it now to a yuasa but all the info i found in here helped me to decide many things.
today it wouldn t start with my 10 days old battery. i think something is eating up voltages while the bike is off. i noticed few days ago that the abs light and the bottom half of my dashboard were lit without the key on. i think that this is what is eating up my battery.
faulty cabling i t hink or the heavy rain might caused the problem...
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 02:25 AM
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If it heavy rain, then you need to check all electrical fuse blocks. You may have intermittent connections which might be draining your battery. Check for any sign of wet areas in the wiring system , which can be your start to detecting your problem.

don't worry as other member will definitely chip in..
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by achkap View Post
thank you all for your warm welcome.
10 years and 122000 km after i purchased my versys all mechanical things work great. The electrical system seems to fail the last 8 months. changed my stator coil twice, my regulator twice, main fuse box once. i think it all started from a chinese battery my mechanic put on. i changed it now to a yuasa but all the info i found in here helped me to decide many things.
today it wouldn t start with my 10 days old battery. i think something is eating up voltages while the bike is off. i noticed few days ago that the abs light and the bottom half of my dashboard were lit without the key on. i think that this is what is eating up my battery.
faulty cabling i t hink or the heavy rain might caused the problem...
The first thing is likely your relay box, also your regulator, if you have been using info I saved in How To Forum, you fill realize that any after market stator will continue to fail unless you go to a series regulator such as the 4012941 Polaris. For the lights you describe coming on, that would need to be either a combination key switch failure linked with the ecu relay. I highly doubt the ECU relay has failed on it's own. There is a remote possibility the headlight relay diode has failed shorted, this would get complicated. To start, you need a reliable volt meter and one that can measure possibly 2 amp DC . My first suggestion would be to disconnect one post of your battery and fully charge it. Once charged , hook you current meter in series with the battery post and disconnected wire, note the current , do not turn on the key
. Report back if you measure any current, please make sure to post the exact current measured. 0.036 Amp is close to the current draw of the headlight relay, measured current normal is around 0.0025 to 0.005 Amp, it will pulse from 0.00 Amp to either of these values, some is for the clock, and other ECU loads strictly for memory retention.

There are many ways to trouble shoot this, since this isn't a 2015 or newer , consideration that the gas tank is a PITA to remove with possible damage to the fuel bung as it is plastic. I am busy today, if interested, post back.
Another less intrusive method would require for me to know what current you measured and then let you pull certain fuses. I would need to dig into the electrical drawings and tell you what fuses to pull then need the results from you with possibly further fuses to pull.
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achkap View Post
thank you all for your warm welcome.
10 years and 122000 km after i purchased my versys all mechanical things work great. The electrical system seems to fail the last 8 months. changed my stator coil twice, my regulator twice, main fuse box once. i think it all started from a chinese battery my mechanic put on. i changed it now to a yuasa but all the info i found in here helped me to decide many things.
today it wouldn t start with my 10 days old battery. i think something is eating up voltages while the bike is off. i noticed few days ago that the abs light and the bottom half of my dashboard were lit without the key on. i think that this is what is eating up my battery.
faulty cabling i t hink or the heavy rain might caused the problem...
The first thing is likely your relay box, also your regulator, if you have been using info I saved in How To Forum, you fill realize that any after market stator will continue to fail unless you go to a series regulator such as the 4012941 Polaris. For the lights you describe coming on, that would need to be either a combination key switch failure linked with the ecu relay. I highly doubt the ECU relay has failed on it's own. There is a remote possibility the headlight relay diode has failed shorted, this would get complicated. To start, you need a reliable volt meter and one that can measure possibly 2 amp DC . My first suggestion would be to disconnect one post of your battery and fully charge it. Once charged , hook you current meter in series with the battery post and disconnected wire, note the current , do not turn on the key
. Report back if you measure any current, please make sure to post the exact current measured. 0.036 Amp is close to the current draw of the headlight relay, measured current normal is around 0.0025 to 0.005 Amp, it will pulse from 0.00 Amp to either of these values, some is for the clock, and other ECU loads strictly for memory retention.

There are many ways to trouble shoot this, since this isn't a 2015 or newer , consideration that the gas tank is a PITA to remove with possible damage to the fuel bung as it is plastic. I am busy today, if interested, post back.
Another less intrusive method would require for me to know what current you measured and then let you pull certain fuses. I would need to dig into the electrical drawings and tell you what fuses to pull then need the results from you with possibly further fuses to pull.
You are very thorough and I think that you covered many things that I should check but unfortunately I don't have neither the tools not the technical knowledge to do then. In addition I am on vacation (yes, my bike failed me during my trip) so I don't also have the time to read and follow the -very complete- how to list. A mechanic I took my versys told me that after some measurements he did the problem seems to be the ECU that open all circuits after the key is turned off. So we re going with that and change possibly the ECU. I will know more tomorrow.
The serial regulator draw my attention after doing some reading in this forum and definitely will be my next choice after the one I have (which is new) fails. I hope I can find one here in Greece.
Thank you all for your responses and I m very happy I found a place I can refer to, since the Greek versys forum seems to be out.
Thanks again and happy New year to all!
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 03:49 PM
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Quick temporary fix

I looked at the drawing, if your bike runs once the battery is charged, I doubt it is the ECU, a quick fix would be to pull the 15 amp ECU fuse when you park your bike.
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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I looked at the drawing, if your bike runs once the battery is charged, I doubt it is the ECU, a quick fix would be to pull the 15 amp ECU fuse when you park your bike.
Really? So the current leak must be somewhere else? Before i was thinking then same you told me, a worn out cable. I will go there now and later i will tell you what the mechanic said..
Thanks again
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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What he did was to clean contacts check some cables remove dirt and stuff like that. He said that I have to test for a couple of days to see if the problem is fixed. If not I must take the bike back and check some other stuff which he didn't tell me when they are. Because I don't have any more days I hope it is fixed otherwise I will remove the fuse when I leave it over the night. It is a little trouble to do that every night but I think your advise is very good and thank you again.
And I have one more question. My regulator that broke twice have broken at the same pin both times. I had a Chinese no good battery. Could it be because of the battery? The same pin. As you look at it the upper left pin (or bottom right depending on how you look at it). If not the battery what else could it be?
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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I looked at the drawing, if your bike runs once the battery is charged, I doubt it is the ECU, a quick fix would be to pull the 15 amp ECU fuse when you park your bike.
And another question if you can answer me. I ve replaced my ignition coils because they were broken with 2 used ones, because the new ones are a bit expensive for my current financial statement. It seems though that when I drive under heavy rain, water can reach into them with a result to not work as they should. Apart from buying new coils is there something I could do?
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 10:05 AM
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And another question if you can answer me. I ve replaced my ignition coils because they were broken with 2 used ones, because the new ones are a bit expensive for my current financial statement. It seems though that when I drive under heavy rain, water can reach into them with a result to not work as they should. Apart from buying new coils is there something I could do?
First, you have a lot of KM on your bike, who did the valve shim? I know it isn't related to your problem, but when doing the valve shim, my post I explain to coat horizontally around the stick coils and to also use a good non conductive grease, very lightly on the spark plug boot of the stick coil, both areas prevent / reduce condensation and moisture. Once you have high voltage tracking occur, it is not reversible, it will carbon track into the porcelain of the plug. Adding the wrong conductive grease or adding too much grease will cause the same problem.

To answer your question about the regulator, sounds like you are using OEM, the pin you describe is it one of 3 ??
If so you should be checking the plug near the stator, as it sounds like you have a single phase condition, which will burn out any stator you install.
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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First, you have a lot of KM on your bike, who did the valve shim? I know it isn't related to your problem, but when doing the valve shim, my post I explain to coat horizontally around the stick coils and to also use a good non conductive grease, very lightly on the spark plug boot of the stick coil, both areas prevent / reduce condensation and moisture. Once you have high voltage tracking occur, it is not reversible, it will carbon track into the porcelain of the plug. Adding the wrong conductive grease or adding too much grease will cause the same problem.

To answer your question about the regulator, sounds like you are using OEM, the pin you describe is it one of 3 ??
If so you should be checking the plug near the stator, as it sounds like you have a single phase condition, which will burn out any stator you install.
The single phase condition is caused by what? And how can I check this? And what can I do about that?
The valve shim was done by someone that proved to be very untrustworthy so now you have me thinking that he made so terrible job that this is causing the problem. Is it possible that the sealing was so bad that water can go through? For the grease I'm not sure if he used any....
Sorry to bomb you with so many questions but I'm getting tired with so many electrical problems that not only have left me hanging 3 times during a trip but has costed me 2,000 Euros in six months.
Tonight my light beam doesn't turn on and It has a new lamp and that worries me that may be something more complicated than a lamp.
So I really am sorry to ask you so many questions and take up your time... I m just trying to figure out what is going on with my minimum knowledge about these stuff.
And thank you for your time again
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 02:18 PM
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The single phase condition is caused by what? And how can I check this? And what can I do about that?
The valve shim was done by someone that proved to be very untrustworthy so now you have me thinking that he made so terrible job that this is causing the problem. Is it possible that the sealing was so bad that water can go through? For the grease I'm not sure if he used any....
Sorry to bomb you with so many questions but I'm getting tired with so many electrical problems that not only have left me hanging 3 times during a trip but has costed me 2,000 Euros in six months.
Tonight my light beam doesn't turn on and It has a new lamp and that worries me that may be something more complicated than a lamp.
So I really am sorry to ask you so many questions and take up your time... I m just trying to figure out what is going on with my minimum knowledge about these stuff.
And thank you for your time again
Normally I restrict myself to once a day unless I am killing time waiting at the computer at night,except when I see something like your post.
The very first place to look is that 3 phase connector about 30 CM from your stator, look for a burnt connection. The next is to test your stator using my test method https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...t=stator+toast

There is a quick way to prove if it is the headlight relay or stator is going, I added / copied posts from another thread, see post 37;38;39. Very simply turning the key to run, without starting and applying 12 VDC to each of 3 pins going into the harness, not the stator side, 1 of those wires triggers the relay. When you find which one key off several times and repeat, if each time the headlight relay comes on, try plugging it back together. One point why not to start the bike, listen closely when testing the plug with the 12 volts, you may hear a single click but no light, this is a indication of contact failure .
My first guess is you have a damaged wire harness or damaged 3 phase plug, leading to the failures of your stators, and very likely a burnt stator.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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Normally I restrict myself to once a day unless I am killing time waiting at the computer at night,except when I see something like your post.
The very first place to look is that 3 phase connector about 30 CM from your stator, look for a burnt connection. The next is to test your stator using my test method https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...t=stator+toast

There is a quick way to prove if it is the headlight relay or stator is going, I added / copied posts from another thread, see post 37;38;39. Very simply turning the key to run, without starting and applying 12 VDC to each of 3 pins going into the harness, not the stator side, 1 of those wires triggers the relay. When you find which one key off several times and repeat, if each time the headlight relay comes on, try plugging it back together. One point why not to start the bike, listen closely when testing the plug with the 12 volts, you may hear a single click but no light, this is a indication of contact failure .
My first guess is you have a damaged wire harness or damaged 3 phase plug, leading to the failures of your stators, and very likely a burnt stator.

i am very frustrated, diassapointed and tired... I have a bike that mechanically has no problem but the electric system is failing constantly. I didn t have the time nor the tools to check my stator and the three phase plug but i will do it during the weekend with the help of a friend of mine.
Yesterday i found out that my battery doesn t charge again and probably is the regulator again.
My frustration comes from the fact that my electrician told me that he can t help me because he doesn t know what might be the problem and he doesn t know where or what to look for. When i showed him your stator test and the 3 phase plug he told me that if a phase were out it wouldn t mess my regulator it would just wont charge my battery.
And there is no other electrician where i live!!!

So, hoping that this would be your once in a day look at the forum, i would like to write the sequence of my electrical failures in case that your expertise will point to a direction of solving the problem.

02/16/2018: Battery change (HAIJIU htx12-bs) 111600 km
04/16/2018: Regulator (put the original kawasaki regulator) 112700 km
06/15/2018: multi - relay (the black box under the seat that one of the jobs is to control the lights) (replaced with a used one) 115000 km
07/18/2018: burnt stator coils (replaced them by rewiring the coils) 116400 km
08/29/2018: burnt stator coils (replaced them with new tourmax stator coils, bought from greece) 117700 km
11/22/218: broken ignition coils (replaced them with used ones) 121500 km
12/06/2018: regulator (same pin as the first regulator broken) (replaced with japanese sun regulator) 121800 km
12/12/2018: new battery yuasa ytx12-bs (probably the taiwan model) 122100 km
12/20/2018: empty battery because when i turn off the bike the bottom half of my dashboard and the ABS light were on 122000 km
12/26/2018: broken ignition coils (replaced them with used ones) 122200
12/27/2018: empty battery for the same reason as above, this time i couldn t tell that there was a current leak because i didn t see the ABS light was on 122200 km
01/03/2019: same symptoms as faulty ignition coils after driving under heavy rain. After 50-60 kilometers (without rain) the symptoms stopped and reappeared after another rainy day 122600km
01/14/2019: empty battery but this time it was because it isn t charging and i bet that it is the regulator again at the same pin. At the same time my headlight burst resulting that i do not have lights only the big ones. 123100 km


So... that s it.
I hope that you can share something with me and advise me for my next steps.
I know that there isn t much you can do from far away but ANY advice would help.
There is no rush because i have decided that until i found someone who knows what he is doing i wont fix anything else. the last thing i want is to replace my regulator every month.
thank you again for your time

at the photo are my previous regulators and the same upper left corner pin was broken at the first one and ready to brake at the second
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