Break in questions - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Break in questions

Hey all,

Was reading over different break in methods and came across one method advising to take the bike to its limits within first 20 Miles.

Rode it pretty hard yesterday (~60 miles). Now I'm thinking I should change the oil, the method mentioned above said to use 10w 40 car motor oil for 1200 Miles...The guy at the dealership said never to use car motor oil... What do I do?!


Thanks

Stu
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 07:12 PM
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For my first oil change i went with the cheaper stuff.....I want the JASO-2 Rating

First Oil Change 600 miles by weljo2001, on Flickr
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Hupp92 View Post
Hey all,

Was reading over different break in methods and came across one method advising to take the bike to its limits within first 20 Miles.

Rode it pretty hard yesterday (~60 miles). Now I'm thinking I should change the oil, the method mentioned above said to use 10w 40 car motor oil for 1200 Miles...The guy at the dealership said never to use car motor oil... What do I do?!


Thanks

Stu
You will probably get different opinions on this topic. I like to follow the Owner's manual and the advice from the dealership. First oil change @600 miles. It recommends what type of motor oil and what weight in the manual. From there you will get a lot of different opinions on how many miles between changes. Personally, I have decided to change mine every 4k or every 6 months, whichever comes first. I have 2,600 miles on my 2017 V1K that I purchased in January. I just purchased an OEM filter and one gallon of OEM 10-40w oil plus a crush washer for $29 at my local Kawasaki dealership.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hupp92 View Post
Hey all,

Was reading over different break in methods and came across one method advising to take the bike to its limits within first 20 Miles.

Rode it pretty hard yesterday (~60 miles). Now I'm thinking I should change the oil, the method mentioned above said to use 10w 40 car motor oil for 1200 Miles...The guy at the dealership said never to use car motor oil... What do I do?!


Thanks

Stu
You will probably get different opinions on this topic. I like to follow the Owner's manual and the advice from the dealership. First oil change @600 miles. It recommends what type of motor oil and what weight in the manual. From there you will get a lot of different opinions on how many miles between changes. Personally, I have decided to change mine every 4k or every 6 months, whichever comes first. I have 2,600 miles on my 2017 V1K that I purchased in January. I just purchased an OEM filter and one gallon of OEM 10-40w oil plus a crush washer for $29 at my local Kawasaki dealership.
The oil and filter will probably run me close to 60 out here in SF.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 09:40 AM
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You can't go wrong following the owner's manual! Engineers with decades of experience designing and building motorcycle engines and transmissions probably know better than some yahoo on the interwebs.

The famous website recommending break in by running hard is a racer. He has anecdotal evidence at best regarding engine survival over a few races under race conditions. Most of us don't run our bikes like that, and we're looking for decades of reliable mundane performance. He discusses piston ring seating but he doesn't discuss other important engine parts like camshafts or valves. There are many surfaces other than cylinder walls.

In aircraft piston engines the break in consists of high power but low rpm for a few hours. This is to seat the piston rings. Oil consumption can be higher than normal without doing this. So, my opinion is that the motorhead guy's break in does a similar thing, imposing high cylinder pressures which encourage proper piston ring seating. But, he does it at high rpm which is probably harmful to all the other mating surfaces which are not yet polished into each other.

A lower rpm high throttle motorcycle break in may have some merit compared to lower rpm low throttle, and in fact the owner's manual does not prohibit it. Normal riding, though, is difficult that way unless you drag your brakes. I would be shocked if the engineers did not consider piston ring/cylinder wall break in when they developed their recommendations. For some reason, low rpm considerations won out over the balls-to-the-wall break in method.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 10:51 AM
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Always use a JASO approved motorcycle oil. Your clutch is submerged in oil and needs the correct type to work properly. Automotive oils can be too slippery.

Whether to use an expensive synthetic motorcycle oil or a cheaper non-syn oil is a good debate. Most of us change out the oil much more frequently than the limits in the owner's manual. Basically, we don't wear out the oil because we change it so frequently. I found the shifting to be smoother using Mobil 1 Racing 4T synthetic oil than a cheap non-syn oil, but maybe it was my imagination or just the bike getting broken in. For me, the slight added cost of using the synthetic is affordable and I believe the protection could be better especially at cold start up, so I use it. But chances are I won't keep the bike until it is totally worn out, so maybe the expense is not actually getting me anything.

Most important is probably to do several oil and filter changes early on. Something like at 500 miles, 1000 miles, 2000 miles. This is to extract any small metal particles.

Honestly we probably worry too much about the oil. Stay away from the off-brand ultra cheap stuff. Use a good filter every oil change. Be nice to the engine until it is fully warmed up. You should be good to go.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 11:31 AM
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Motoman method

There is a method that is well explained and to me makes sens

Motoman has written a page on the subject

That's the I broke mine


My 2 cents


LOP
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 11:59 AM
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I agree with MotoMan's method of break-in. Problem with the way manufacturers do break in is that it doesn't properly seat the rings. However manufacturers can't tell owners to break in their engines the proper way, that would be a liability or require a dyno and not everyone has access to a dyno to do a 20 mile break in. So the manufactures meet in the middle and recommend owners to do a break-in method that's not the best for your engine unfortunately.

So how do I know that MotoMan's method is the proper method? Because I've been doing it that way for years.... and long before I ever read his article. It's exactly how we break in RC car and airplane engines. I use to race Nitro RC stadium truck semi-professionally, back in the late 90s, early 2000s, and the break in method is almost spot on to MotoMans minus thing like air-fuel mixture and 2-stroke fuel nitro content and all that happy jazz. We did our own porting on engines after break-in, and the condition of the cylinder walls and pistons were amazing. Power was also considerably better using our break-in method than a conventional break in.

I know it's 2-stroke vs 4-stroke, but the mechanics of an IC are all the same.

hey, it's your bike, do what you think is right... it's just that I know what's right as does MotoMan and other motorcycle racers and mechanics who do the same style of break in.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 04:04 PM
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I use and recommend the thanx method, used it on ALL my motorcycles including my "fuel drag-bike" back in the '60s. So far the LONGEST mileage is on my '08 V which has 71,543 MILES (115,137 kms) simply because I sold them to GET a Versys, but NONE of them had any engine issues, including using oil, etc.

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