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SWMOTECH crash bars installed

67K views 150 replies 87 participants last post by  dspark52 
#1 ·
As with everything I have purchased from SWMOTECH the fit and finish is beyond perfect. :clap: The mounting kit (hardware) is OEM quality or better. My son and I spent maybe 30 to 45 minutes installing them last night. There is one minor tight fit and that is because of the California Emissions canister that’s on the left side of the bike (do non-Ca models have this?). In the area of the red circle the clamp is a very tight fit with the canister cover but it can be done. :thumb:
 

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#3 · (Edited)
I was worried about the same thing until they showed up. The tab that bolts to the front is 1/4" steel (or close to it). They are VERY sturdy, if you crash hard enough to bend them there will be way more to worry about than radiator damage. I am very happy with my choice of crash bars. :D:thumb:
 
#7 ·
I put a set of the SW-Motech crash bars on mine too. Very impressed with the quality and workmanship. I don't see a problem with the crash bars not connecting to each other. The front mounting tab is close to the front of the bars.

I chose the SW-Motech's over the HB because I liked the way they looked on the bike. I felt the SW-Motechs were more streamline and kept with the lines of the bike. Yes, you do have less top protection than the HBs so I fixed that by putting frame sliders on the fairings.


For the CA riders - notice no emissions canister.
 
#9 ·
i love theses...slipped on some broken glass backing out of a spot once and dropped the machine. all i got was a 4 inch scratch on the bottom of the bars, barely noticeable, and a small scrape on the end of the handle bars. theses saved my baby from horrible disfigurement.
 
#16 ·
I installed the SW Motech Crash Bars. They pit perfect and I also don't see a need to connect them in front of the radiator. They serve the purpose of protecting the engine and can"t see a problem damaging the radiator. I think if the radiator gets damaged you will probably have worse things to worry about. I purchased mine through Twisted Throttle and everything went well except the huge brokerage fees from UPS. Use USPS or Air freight ALWAYS when shipping to Canada, I was warned but now I know.
 
#21 ·
red, where did you get thoses sliders?
 
#23 ·
It took me 35 mins

Here's the photoblog

Here's the kit


Rear lower engine mount nut is on the Right.


Out comes the rear engine mount on the left


Upper Left mount was next, Warning remove all the plastic I was being lazy, you have to in the end.


A better look at the instructions, quite easy to follow.


Frame Protector for the U-Bolt


Don't forget to put the cap on!


Set came with the warning label "Use the longer bolt supplied"
Don't forget the spacer between the engine and the guard.


Front mount is next


Then the U bolt around the frame




Torque Wrench is required for this job.
Recommend Fronts Left & Right first then the Rear Engine Mount
Then the u-bolts


Plastic off the right side


Rear right side spacer


Right side on.


My build out so far.




Chris
 
#28 ·
Engine bars are the one thing really causing me a headache. H&B or SWMotech. I've read all the posts but just can't decide which ones.

I'm leaning towards the motech ones, i think they look tidier but are they too low? and is the fact they don't meet in the centre a problem?
 
#31 ·
My son and I spent maybe 30 to 45 minutes installing them last night. There is one minor tight fit and that is because of the California Emissions canister that’s on the left side of the bike. In the area of the red circle the clamp is a very tight fit with the canister cover but it can be done.
I bought a set and there appears to be clearance issues with the right-side (as you sit on the bike) contacting/covering one of the bolts of the clutch cover? Does it just sit on top of one of the clutch cover's bolts.

Additionally, was there any trimming for the emissions canister? Any more info. you can give me before I start the dis-assembly for that left side?
 

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#32 ·
I bought a set and there appears to be clearance issues with the right-side (as you sit on the bike) contacting/covering one of the bolts of the clutch cover? Does it just sit on top of one of the clutch cover's bolts.
I don't have any guidance for you on the evap cannister, but there is about 3/8" clearance between the guard and the clutch cover bolt after assembly.

 
#34 ·
From what I've been able to gather from the forum, both the H&B and SWMotech are effective at protecting the V from a drop. Am I right about that? Do either interfere with lean angle/cornering clearance? Are there any other options, or is it just these two to choose from?
I'm leaning to the H&B, but might just go with cheapest...
 
#35 ·
Either will do you just fine. Go with what you like:)
 
#39 ·
My read on engine guards/ crash bars...Not a farkle at all...But a huge wallet protection device...You drop the V without them and you gonna be weepin...Replacing fairing, rad covers etc, is going to make your farkle fund look like chump change...Get either, but get them...Both great products and my H&B's are tested and proven to save major mulla...
 
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