Versys x300 - Sprockets/Re-gearing Causes Engine Fault Light - Page 11 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #201 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-15-2020, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyLee11 View Post
This may have already been addressed but, if a fault code appears because of a gearing change is there anyway to reprogram the ECU to accept the change and the code disappear? Does this occur on Non ABS machines?
Yes it also occurs on non ABS machines.
You are correct though that an appropriate flash of the ECU would solve the issue. Good luck getting your Kawasaki Dealer to help you on that one. When I tried I got this long winded reply back about how "Kawasaki has worked out the appropriate gearing for the motorcycle, and does not recommend any changes from OEM gearing".
We all use our bikes in different ways and at different locations, but Kawasaki's gearing is apparently appropriate for all situations all of the time. A cop out.

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #202 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-15-2020, 10:02 AM
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IMO the best cure was suggested by Rkturbo in his Post #171 where he said:
"I disconnected the wire from the switch on the clutch lever, plugged a wire into each side of the connector so it always appeared to the electronics that the clutch lever was being pulled. I havenít had time to dig into the wiring harness more, but I think if you place a diode in the line that goes from the clutch switch system and the ECU so power can only flow towards the ECU, and then a diode that sends power from the wire powering that switch system to between that other diode and the ECU, the ECU should always see that the clutch switch is closed (pulled) but should allow the rest of the engine lockout features to still work and not backfeed power into those lines. Again, itís only an untested thought at this point, but maybe work exploring for someone who has a service manual wiring diagram and doesnít mine cutting into the harness to get readings and attaching diodes."

Does anyone know of an electronics guru who might be interested in advising on such a project? Its beyond my expertise.

2017 Kawasaki Versys-X 300; 2010 Suzuki V-Strom 650; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100J
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post #203 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-15-2020, 03:06 PM
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I wonder if the ECU from the Ninja 300 would sort it?
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post #204 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-15-2020, 09:05 PM
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Electrical 101

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rkturbo View Post
I can say with certainty that it's 100% for the Ninja (2018 400 at least, theoretically should work on any Kawasaki getting this code with a similar sensor and ecu setup). I've put on at least 500 miles with it, varying conditions and speeds. During my testing, I could reliably get it to trigger on demand at high speeds, but with it jumpered, I've thrown everything I could at it and still don't get a code.
So browsing through this forum, came across what I deem dangerous but a possible solution. One hour later here goes:
First drawing 16-50 is the simplified version of the starter circuit, the lockout switch at the clutch is in series with the side stand which in turn is in series with frame ground #13. Having the lockout switch active as if the clutch was pulled in ( contacts closed ) ( the switch is normally closed held open) we have a path to ground, next see the relay box

Drawing 16-85 of the service manual the relay box, notice pin #15 which is light green has a diode connected to the start relay coil circuit ground side, this wire goes to the ECU. So if you wanted to duplicate the bypassing of the lockout switch but still have all the safety features as before, this is what you do;
Go to the relay box, the largest connector is the one to pull ( 10 pin) cut the wire pin #15, tape the end at the socket, the other end connect to to the nearest ground Black with yellow tracer, Pin # 4 or #5 for the ECU, one of them should be BK/Y. That is it!!


For those trying to follow this using the service manual electrical drawing
Pin # 16 is the positive from the start button and connected to the anode of the diode .Those numbers exist in real life, you may need a magnifying glass but molded in the plastic of the connector For those trying to follow this drawing then going to the electrical drawing. Pay attention, my intent is to identify the wires with the diode in place, in the electrical drawing.The negative side of the control / coil circuit of the start relay ( this powers the start solenoid) goes to pin #12 also to the cathode through to pin #13, pin #13 is tapped with a second diode using the cathode again connected to pin #14 ( so pin #14 has two diodes in series ). Last is pin #15 it is the only circuit connected to the negative side of the coil control circuit of the start relay and connected by the anode, that is how you find it in the electrical drawing. I disregarded both the ABS and non ABS as the end result is the same, I assume that circuit is to allow the actual speed to enter rather than the gearing ratio, reset ?? who knows. I use what information was provided by the turning the lock out switch upside down.


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Last edited by onewizard; 03-01-2020 at 02:06 AM.
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post #205 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-15-2020, 09:34 PM
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Thanks Brockie. Yes, I would change both the front and rear tires, but wouldn't want to go any wider on the front to get the extra height as I think going wider would affect steering response negatively..so I would likely just make the rear taller. Seem to recall reading somewhere that another Versys 300 owner had put a 140/80 on the rear, with no major issues. I thought the 130/90 would be a better idea. If the speed sensor is on the rear wheel hub, the speedo would be off as the rear wheel would show a slower speed than the bike is actually going, essentially 'fooling' the sensor. If so, I'm not sure I understand why the code would pop up.
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post #206 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 07:46 AM
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Here's what I've done: Unscrewed the clutch switch ( see my earlier posts) put a 16t on the front , still have 46t on the back. Cut the cover over the front sprocket so it
does not touch the sprocket. I've done over 250 miles already, no error codes, gear indicator still works. It great in traffic. 70mph/ 7100 rpm
Great mileage too.
That's my 5c worth.
Done the mod on both mine and my wife's bike.
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post #207 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 08:11 AM
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My 1996 BMW 3 series convertible didn’t have a clutch safety switch. When I first bought it I almost jumped a curb when I tried to start it. My son was trying to listen to the radio, turned it one click too far and slammed the car in front of him, causing thousands of dollar in damage to both cars. That switch is there for a reason.

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post #208 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 08:29 AM
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I'm old school ( riding 52 years) I never start my bike without pulling the clutch in, take care.
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post #209 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by HKSY View Post
I'm old school ( riding 52 years) I never start my bike without pulling the clutch in, take care.
Same here + I always start and leave a bike in neutral (unless parked on a hill). Iíve only been riding 48 years.
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post #210 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 09:23 AM
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Wiring change

Quote:
Originally Posted by HKSY View Post
Here's what I've done: Unscrewed the clutch switch ( see my earlier posts) put a 16t on the front , still have 46t on the back. Cut the cover over the front sprocket so it
does not touch the sprocket. I've done over 250 miles already, no error codes, gear indicator still works. It great in traffic. 70mph/ 7100 rpm
Great mileage too.
That's my 5c worth.
Done the mod on both mine and my wife's bike.
No response to my wiring change?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jspringator View Post
My 1996 BMW 3 series convertible didn’t have a clutch safety switch. When I first bought it I almost jumped a curb when I tried to start it. My son was trying to listen to the radio, turned it one click too far and slammed the car in front of him, causing thousands of dollar in damage to both cars. That switch is there for a reason.
I spent a couple hours and in my view, you can have both the safety back and no codes
Quote:
Originally Posted by whisperquiet View Post
Same here + I always start and leave a bike in neutral (unless parked on a hill). I’ve only been riding 48 years.
Again , I don't own a X300, but have been involved in the electrical field for over 40 years, side stand and clutch switch are safety features that could save your life. The mention of turning the lock out switch around, stating this way produces no codes. I used the PDF manual and went through the starter drawing and electrical drawing. My suggestion of cutting one wire and grounding the end to the ECU, is extremely simple , if you want to add a diode , no worries but I see no reason to add one.This wire is easily found at the relay box. Someone need more help just ask. No response to this post, I will start ignoring this section of the forum.
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Last edited by onewizard; 02-18-2020 at 09:27 AM.
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post #211 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 10:19 AM
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If you have the wire diagram and MOD , I'd like to see it if that is OK with you. Thanks
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post #212 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 10:38 AM
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If you have the wire diagram and MOD , I'd like to see it if that is OK with you. Thanks
If you are referring to my post, look for a PM, I have updated my former post, allowing anyone to follow this wiring diagram. FYI the wiring diagram of the relay box never matches with the wiring diagram, that is, the numbers shown in the relay box are colours only in the diagram. The diode configuration is drawn differently, you need to follow the relay drawing from the coil to the anode of the diode, the wire colour is Light Green

I added the diode symbol to my earlier post.Also added how to trace this using the diode symbol

Last edited by onewizard; 02-18-2020 at 08:49 PM.
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post #213 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 11:43 AM
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Same here + I always start and leave a bike in neutral (unless parked on a hill). Iíve only been riding 48 years.
I've ONLY been riding about 56 years, and I ALWAYS shut-down my V650s in gear, by holding the clutch-lever IN while putting the side-stand DOWN, thus acting as a parking-brake!... then selecting neutral as I start it again.
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post #214 of 216 (permalink) Old 02-18-2020, 07:56 PM
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I could change my habits in the next eight riding years, but I doubt it👍🏍
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post #215 of 216 (permalink) Old 05-03-2020, 02:39 PM
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Great thread!

Just read every post on all 11 pages.

Bought a 2020 last Tuesday and want to change gearing before too long so this is a huge help. Thanks to everybody.

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post #216 of 216 (permalink) Old 05-28-2020, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
So browsing through this forum, came across what I deem dangerous but a possible solution. One hour later here goes:
First drawing 16-50 is the simplified version of the starter circuit, the lockout switch at the clutch is in series with the side stand which in turn is in series with frame ground #13. Having the lockout switch active as if the clutch was pulled in ( contacts closed ) ( the switch is normally closed held open) we have a path to ground, next see the relay box

Drawing 16-85 of the service manual the relay box, notice pin #15 which is light green has a diode connected to the start relay coil circuit ground side, this wire goes to the ECU. So if you wanted to duplicate the bypassing of the lockout switch but still have all the safety features as before, this is what you do;
Go to the relay box, the largest connector is the one to pull ( 10 pin) cut the wire pin #15, tape the end at the socket, the other end connect to to the nearest ground Black with yellow tracer, Pin # 4 or #5 for the ECU, one of them should be BK/Y. That is it!!
Amazing find, and agree much better than removing all safeties. I'll be using this for my upcoming regearing, when sprockets arrive.

'19 Versys-X 300 with no trimmings, I'm working on it!
From Perth, Western Australia, with love.
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