I can say with certainty that it's 100% for the Ninja (2018 400 at least, theoretically should work on any Kawasaki getting this code with a similar sensor and ecu setup). I've put on at least 500 miles with it, varying conditions and speeds. During my testing, I could reliably get it to trigger on demand at high speeds, but with it jumpered, I've thrown everything I could at it and still don't get a code.
So browsing through this forum, came across what I deem dangerous but a possible solution. One hour later here goes:
First drawing 16-50 is the simplified version of the starter circuit, the lockout switch at the clutch is in series with the side stand which in turn is in series with frame ground #13. Having the lockout switch active as if the clutch was pulled in ( contacts closed ) ( the switch is normally closed held open) we have a path to ground, next see the relay box
Drawing 16-85 of the service manual the relay box, notice pin #15 which is light green
has a diode connected to the start relay coil circuit ground side, this wire goes to the ECU. So if you wanted to duplicate the bypassing of the lockout switch but still have all the safety features as before, this is what you do;
Go to the relay box, the largest connector is the one to pull ( 10 pin) cut the wire pin #15, tape the end at the socket, the other end connect to to the nearest ground Black with yellow tracer, Pin # 4 or #5 for the ECU, one of them should be BK/Y. That is it!!
For those trying to follow this using the service manual electrical drawing
Pin # 16 is the positive from the start button and connected to the anode of the diode .Those numbers exist in real life, you may need a magnifying glass but molded in the plastic of the connector
For those trying to follow this drawing then going to the electrical drawing. Pay attention, my intent is to identify the wires with the diode in place, in the electrical drawing.The negative side of the control / coil circuit of the start relay
( this powers the start solenoid) goes to pin #12 also to the cathode through to pin #13, pin #13 is tapped with a second diode using the cathode again connected to pin #14 ( so pin #14 has two diodes in series ). Last is pin #15 it is the only circuit connected to the negative side of the coil control circuit of the start relay and connected by the anode
, that is how you find it in the electrical drawing. I disregarded both the ABS and non ABS as the end result is the same, I assume that circuit is to allow the actual speed to enter rather than the gearing ratio, reset ?? who knows. I use what information was provided by the turning the lock out switch upside down.