Do you have any pictures of your finished install?
I do. Is there anything in particular you'd like pictures of?
The smudges on the bars are dirt from my feet, not blemishes in the finish.
The instructions are a bit cryptic but actually do include all the info you need except for torque values. The engine mount bolts are 32 ft-lbs. The right footpeg mounting plate is 18 ft-lbs. There are a couple of fairing attach bolts which are snug but not cranked down. I don't recall a torque for those.
Do follow the order of assembly implied by the instructions, start with the left side then finish with the right. I recommend dry fitting everything first, then going back and using Loc-Tite and torquing everything down. Just in case something doesn't fit quite right or needs some jiggling to get into place.
Here are the bars as installed. You can see the bars don't come up as high as the advertising photos trick the eye into thinking they do. They are as the marketing photos show, but I was thinking they would look higher up than they really are.
The lower left bar nicely protects the engine. The bolt it attaches to is the lower engine mount. The kit comes with a new threaded rod and one Ny-Lock nut. You're supposed to re-use the original lock-nut on the other side but the threading was different so I bought a replacement at Home Depot for 50 cents.
The lower right side requires the foot peg plate be removed. No big deal. Do this as you're installing the left side because you can't remove the lower engine mount bolt with the plate installed. Attaching the foot peg plate is the last item on final re-assembly.
Here's the bolt hole I had to enlarge on the lower right mounting plate which attaches under the right foot peg. It just needed a tiny bit more room. The original slot was about 1/4" x 1/2".
The one frustration was fitting locknuts to the upper engine mount bolts. RDMoto supplied Ny-Lock nuts but they didn't fit in the cast slots in the engine casing. This photo is looking from the front. It is under the radiator and on the front of the cylinder casing. The bolt is sticking through but the nut is not yet installed. The recess where the nut sits is visible. The second picture is the other side so it appears reversed left/right from the first picture. This is the nut installed in the recess.
The Ny-Lock is too tall to fit, so I had to grind the top of the nut a little bit. No big deal with a grinding wheel. Alternatively, use a hand file or buy another style of lock nut. I used Loc-Tite on these nuts also.