engine guards / frame sliders - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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engine guards / frame sliders

What is the best tip over / crash protection for the versys. Looking for engine bars and or frame slider pictures and sources plus your recommendations.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 06:10 PM
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I like the SW Motech bars.

81 Honda CB750F with Jupiter sidecar, 82 Honda CB750F, 86 Yamaha Radian, 87 BMW K100RS, 2002 Honda XR 200R, 2007 Suzuki Bandit 1250, 2009 Green Versys, 2010 Kawasaki Vukcan 900 Custom
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 07:08 PM
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I have LSL sliders but now wish I had SW bars. There seem to be a lot of evidence that SW bars work. I wounder if anyone out there had a fall and experienced how effective LSL sliders work to protect the bike??
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-23-2010, 09:22 PM
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Hepco and Becker guards with One industries swing arm sliders.


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Fishing and riding,doesn't get any better!!


2009 Lime green Versys
Baldwin reg. saddle w/lime grn. thread and gel insert
Hepco & Becker crash bars
Givi side carriers w/ E21's
Fenda Extenda
Motowerk foot peg lowering blocks & mirror extenders
cut tail fender
black lower panels
Mikesshields Gran Touring, clear
Alaskan Leather Pillion 1 buttpad (trip use only)
Sw-Motech 20mm riser

Versys gone..replace with Victory Hammer
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-23-2010, 10:36 PM
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good question, i'm wondering myself. i picked up a used VS a couple of weeks ago. i was surprised to learn that frame sliders cost nearly as much as crash bars, so i guess expense doesn't really favor one over the other (although style might). will crash bars fold and cause damage?
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 02:39 PM
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Most crash bars are designed to withstand free standing drops and some low sides. I have seen pics where people have low sided and the bars saved the motor. The sliders have less surface area to contact and can tend to dig in instead of slide as much, but the contact points of sliders can be replaced. The crash bars would probably have to be replaced or repainted after ground contact- but if they kept your damage down, they have paid for themselves!
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Fishing and riding,doesn't get any better!!


2009 Lime green Versys
Baldwin reg. saddle w/lime grn. thread and gel insert
Hepco & Becker crash bars
Givi side carriers w/ E21's
Fenda Extenda
Motowerk foot peg lowering blocks & mirror extenders
cut tail fender
black lower panels
Mikesshields Gran Touring, clear
Alaskan Leather Pillion 1 buttpad (trip use only)
Sw-Motech 20mm riser

Versys gone..replace with Victory Hammer
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-30-2010, 09:39 PM
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sliders and crash gaurds

Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
What is the best tip over / crash protection for the versys. Looking for engine bars and or frame slider pictures and sources plus your recommendations.
I'm probably going to get the Hepko & Becker crash gaurds for the V. There are two other models, it's a personal opinion I guess.
As for sliders, here's a link for that as well from this forum. The sliders for ninja should work ( so I hear ), sliders for the V specificly are pricy.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ead.php?t=4139

Another tip, go to the top of the page and do a search, I used the word Hepko and it brought up a lot of threads

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Last edited by Andreas; 01-30-2010 at 09:44 PM. Reason: added info
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miker4055 View Post
I have LSL sliders but now wish I had SW bars. There seem to be a lot of evidence that SW bars work. I wounder if anyone out there had a fall and experienced how effective LSL sliders work to protect the bike??
I have the LSLs. They will keep the frame and cowlings off the ground if the bike goes down on a relatively level/smooth surface, i.e., not fire/gravel roads. Their only real advantage is that they are inconspicuous - if that's really an advantage.

I will be switching to SW-Motech bars for some gravel road adventures this summer.

I put the LSLs on my bike as soon as I got it, and they protected it perfectly the two times it has been down; the first time I was practicing a bunch of low speed technical maneuvering getting used to the height of the bike; the second time was when someone/something knocked my bike over in my apartment parking lot.

Note, I didn't have any lever damage in either instance, because I also installed bar guards. They also help keep the cowlings/frame from contacting the ground in a fall.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ednukey View Post
I have the LSLs. They will keep the frame and cowlings off the ground if the bike goes down on a relatively level/smooth surface, i.e., not fire/gravel roads. Their only real advantage is that they are inconspicuous - if that's really an advantage.

I will be switching to SW-Motech bars for some gravel road adventures this summer.

I put the LSLs on my bike as soon as I got it, and they protected it perfectly the two times it has been down; the first time I was practicing a bunch of low speed technical maneuvering getting used to the height of the bike; the second time was when someone/something knocked my bike over in my apartment parking lot.

Note, I didn't have any lever damage in either instance, because I also installed bar guards. They also help keep the cowlings/frame from contacting the ground in a fall.

Where exactly do the LSL bolts mount to/into? Most importantly, are any of the bolts mounted into the engine casing?

I'm thinking about buying a set, because my riding is 99.9% street, but I don't want to buy any if the bolts go into the engine case.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 01:28 AM
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Sike,

I researched all the different sliders that were available at the time and the LSLs seemed to have the best overall design.

I will attempt to textually describe how they mount:
The sliders use a supplied forged aluminum "tab" that mounts to the frame tabe - the one the front engine bolts are secured to. The LSL "tab" is secured to the bike's frame tab with two bolts - one of which is a bolt provided to replace the factory engine case-to-frame tab mounting bolt. The slider then mounts to the LSL "tab" with a large single bolt. So, nothing mounts to the engine casing.

Basically, the LSLs use the same mounting point as both the SW-Motech and H&B crash bars do (at that frame contact point), but they add a "tab" that the actual puck assemblies mount to.

Sorry if the desciption is not very clear. If you dig around online you can find some images - particularly if you look under LSL sliders for the ER-6n
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 03:01 AM
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Anyone have oppinion of these on ebay?




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 09:55 AM
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H&B and sliders coming

So I am done window shopping (screen shopping), here's what I got for the wifes V





Hepko & Becker with shipping $186.59 she's gonna shot me. heehee
then the two types of sliders, thought I'd give it a shot. The longer carbon looking one I'll probably try to mount lower somewhere ( $15.00 + s/h) , the shorter ones should fit up there by the tank faiting ( $20.00 + s/h) - both at the same dealer for $45.72.
Good thing we have seperate accounts

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I'm here for my wife's V . She lets me Farkle her Ride. No Diamonds for her, but shiney stuff for the bike is Okay
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 10:55 AM
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HB and shogun sliders also look good.

http://www.kneedraggers.com/catalog/...nd-Bar-Sliders


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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ednukey View Post
Sike,

I researched all the different sliders that were available at the time and the LSLs seemed to have the best overall design.

I will attempt to textually describe how they mount:
The sliders use a supplied forged aluminum "tab" that mounts to the frame tabe - the one the front engine bolts are secured to. The LSL "tab" is secured to the bike's frame tab with two bolts - one of which is a bolt provided to replace the factory engine case-to-frame tab mounting bolt. The slider then mounts to the LSL "tab" with a large single bolt. So, nothing mounts to the engine casing.

Basically, the LSLs use the same mounting point as both the SW-Motech and H&B crash bars do (at that frame contact point), but they add a "tab" that the actual puck assemblies mount to.

Sorry if the desciption is not very clear. If you dig around online you can find some images - particularly if you look under LSL sliders for the ER-6n
Thanks for the write-up. I have looked for pictures and from the pictures and your description, I'm still a little concerned about the bolt running from the plate to the engine. I have seen engine cases ripped open with the bolts that run directly, but this should spread the force, should....
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 01:46 PM
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depends ho low speed yur drop is
Ive done it 3 times, and so far there is no damage to the panels, the engine bars did their job
So I'd say use the engine bars, my preference is for H&B's, others differ
if you want belt and braces then consider putting soem sliders on one of the bolts on the tank.

fwiw
drop #1, was off bike helping to shut a gate, bike rolled forward topped over onto its side... one of the allow bolts on the H&B stand popped.. not sign of damage
drop #2, was going up hill on a farm track, slid off on some wet grass, about 5 mph.. no sign of damage
drop #3. hit some ice, reckon about 10..15 mph, fell over with my leg trapped between the bike and the road/ice..... engine bars scraped, bit of bruising no tears in the gear. few scratches on the handguards (KTM) look like they saved the handlebars and probably the clutch lever)
..so the engine bars worked

whether the H&B bars would do a good job on a higher speed accident I don't know, and I don't want to find out. by my reckonings the Engine bars are now breaking even

There 3 (mebbe more) makes of enigne bar H&B, SW Motech and Renntec.. mebbe others. Renntec don't fit all models, IIRC the SW Motech are placed a little lower, and I thing don't have the tie bar between the outer frames. ultimately yer pays yer money yer takes your choice
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 05:33 PM
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As many others on this site, I have the V35 Givi hardbags. From my experience the end of the handlebar takes most of the impact because it sticks out the furthest but then what about the bags? If I purchased the H & B bars would they protect the bags too? If not then buying the bars defeats the purpose. Does anybody know if the bags become the sacrificial part on a "fall over" whether you have engine bars or not? I don't think the bars enhance the look of the bike so unless they actually protect the body parts too the engine is nicely tucked into the frame and therefore shouldn't need protecting anyway. I'm open to comments. The only real test I suppose is to gently lie the bike down on both it's sides to see what parts would be affected in a tip over.

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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 09:16 PM
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Had a zero speed side trip at the driveway.
Having HB 40L bag, my V rested on the bags first and didn't touch the HB bars.
Few stratches on the base of the bag but not noticeable.
The HB bags wing span is close to 38 inches. (same as the mirrors end to end).



but , (better this than the V's paintwork)

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phdmam View Post
Anyone have oppinion of these on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
I've looked at those, and they LOOK good, they would probably also double well as Highway pegs because they stick out so far, but my fear is exactly that; that they stick out so far. I don't know much about how frame sliders work, I've never used them before, so take this with a grain of salt;

It seems to me that because it sticks out so far it would be useful in a parking lot drop, but potentially hazardous if you went down going any faster. I also try to look for the weakest link - any system is only as strong as its weakest link - and while the sliders themselves look really beefy, the bolt that ultimately holds them onto the bike doesn't.

I'm leaning towards these;
http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=862
Even though I will have to remove or modify my front radiator cowl; the design of these seems to me (again, take this with a big grain of salt) to be more robust; the bolts and connectors are sturdier, and connect more directly to the frame itself. They also won't contact the road until they are really needed.

I did find these on the Project D site, though, and I think they look really good for front axle protection if you are looking to do that as well...
http://projektd.com/product_info.php...52d56b07ac8519

I must say though; by the time you buy a pair of front wheel sliders, frame sliders, & swingarm sliders, you'd be spending more money than on the H&B or SWMotech bars. Hmmmm.....

Last edited by doink1968; 02-01-2010 at 12:58 PM.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-04-2010, 09:55 PM
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Got the Crash gaurds in yesterday and they are on the bike. Took maybe an hour even with instructions. Then again I glanced at them
A few things I noticed that would help the next person, The plastic housing does not need to be removed like mention in the forum, however the lower bolts need to be removed so that you can move the plastic a little.
This is the right side. All bolts on the crash gaurds should only hold the bars in place until you can get the cross member attached !! Very little space to put the washer and nut on. Maybe someone might try just screwing the gaurd on into the plastic area ( furthest from the front), this would maybe let the gaurds down further so that the cross member could be easily attached. Once that is hand tight then continue with the major bolts.
The right side has a sleeve for that longer main bolt

Be careful please, the nuts are not welded in place and I almost lost one today. The nuts are not normal thicknes !!!
I also mounted the black frame slider I had posted earlier, just couldn't find a place for the larger sliders. Need to sell them I guess. But I will order two more sets of the small black ones, I think they will fit on the OEM lower covers and not get in the way.

DONE


There are a few more pic's in the album if you are interested.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...hp?albumid=105

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I'm here for my wife's V . She lets me Farkle her Ride. No Diamonds for her, but shiney stuff for the bike is Okay
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-05-2010, 06:48 PM
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recommend get the Slider bars too!

Hi All... we had the unfortunate situation where my son Dion had dropped my bike in the rain two weeks ago and had damaged the larger front screen - Air panel/radiator bottle cover along side of the right side of the tank - radiator shroud, blinker body and the bottom dress panel also was scratched and some very fine scrathes on the engine covers... but overall nothing really bad just semi deep scratches as it was a slow speed fall (thankfully he's okay too) however - I wanted to buy the engine sliders before but decided to wait and maybe make them my self (being a metal worker) The total cost of replacing the above said panels comes to some $663.00AU my daughter Sian works for Peter Stevens Harley Heaven and they own the Kawasaki dealership here in Adelaide South Australia and got all the bits for just on $300.00AU (of course @ trade price) but -I NOW! have spent my $80US and put the engine sliders on and that would've save us that some 250.00AU or 570.00 over the counter cost. My advise is - get what you can afford cause it CAN!!! save you in the end! [I got the rear wheel & engine sliders off eBay and they are EXCELLENT!!! in quality and manufacture] p.s. with the handle bar slider, rear wheel slider, the foot peg, all took the brunt of the fall - with the engine slider fitted the damage would've been just the sliders themselves!

Last edited by Andreas56; 02-05-2010 at 06:52 PM.
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