19" Wire Wheels Installed - Juice Box - 20 Mods! - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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19" Wire Wheels Installed - Juice Box - 20 Mods!

A few pics of my 2011 VS. I picked up last month from a dealer Macon, GA. Drove 5 hours to purchase for 30% off list. Was still in the crate, zero miles, only 270 miles now. Probably won't be lucky again for 10 years.

Ok, comments on my mods.

1) Yoshimura Carbon Exhaust
Perfect sound with the DB insert, way too load otherwise. By the way, this is not a ‘slip on’ meaning for many other bikes the catalytic is retained when adding new exhaust, not with the VS. You will need to add more fuel in all RPM ranges with a Juice Box or Power Commander. Also, and is not in the instructions, if you use the DB, you need to remove the bolt hole ‘tang’ before inserting the DB plug.

2) Two Bro’s Juice Box
You will learn much about your bike installing this mod. Watch YouTube videos. You will make mistakes if you do not.

3) A/C Adapter
Great for powering GPS or Cell.

4) Nelson-Rigg Touring Saddle Bags
Tried Givi’s and just ridiculous to position correctly. Returned same day. The Nelson’s fit perfect and for half the $.

5) Kawasaki Tail Bag
Looks cool and holds a 6 pack.

6) Fork Sliders
Like the look.

7) Frame Sliders
Like the look. Watching them closely though as become the new motor mount bolts.

8) Rear Axle Spools
A must for working on the bike. So much easier with a front and rear lift.

9) Yoshimura Bar Ends
Light weight and still no ‘buzz’.

10) Vario Touring Screen
Worth every penney. Only wind is at top of shoulders/face. I am 6”.

11) Galfer Stainless Brake Lines
Not sure I can recommend these over stock lines. Installed all three and a few weeks later, all were sweating, the front right actually dripping. I re-torqued but the right front is still an issue. Look great though.

12) Yoshimura Fender Eliminator
A much cleaner look.

13) Super Sprox 44t
Except for the rims, this is my favorite mod. The bike is so much easier to ride, minimizes the off/on abrupt throttle response, first gear is actually useable, and only 4k RPM at 55-60. Cannot recommend more.

14) Puig Carbon Hugger
Keeps the electrics and shock much cleaner after a ride.

15) Carbon Front Fender Extender
Keeps headers and engine cleaner and protects radiator.

16) Sig Sauer 9mm P938 under Seat
Will sleep better when camping.

17) Shinko 705 Dual Sport Tires
Love them.

18) Woody’s (RADS) Aluminum Hubs
Needed for #19.

19) Excel 17” Rear | 19” Front
Completely changes the look and demeanor of the bike. Personally, this is how Kawasaki should offer the bike stock. However, the riding style is altered. The ‘turn in’ is at first somewhat slower but for me, is perfect. Before, I found I was always sliding on the seat towards the tank and now the bike feels so much taller even though is only an inch higher from the ground. Of course is not a true dual sport bike but handles superbly on fire roads and to remote camp spots along the river.

However, not an expensive mod at $1800 without tires.

20) Front Fender Riser (Homemade- Polished Aluminum Stock)



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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014, 08:27 PM
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"However, not an expensive mod at $1800 without tires."

I don't know about anyone else but $1800 to me IS PRETTY EXPENSIVE for a mod. Must be nice.


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014, 08:39 PM
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Nice!! Didn't waste any time getting to the mods

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaJeff View Post
"However, not an expensive mod at $1800 without tires."

I don't know about anyone else but $1800 to me IS PRETTY EXPENSIVE for a mod. Must be nice.
Think he meant ( AN EXPENSIVE MOD ).





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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2014, 08:30 AM
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I thought klr is the dual sport model, no need to mod the rims if you choose it

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2014, 09:09 AM
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Nice! So your exhaust is a full system? Replaced the headers?

If they're quality frame sliders, no worries on those bolts being the new motor mounts. I've installed frame sliders on all my sportbikes, no worries. One recommendation would be to put a dab of anti-seize on, then torque to mfr spec.

Ah, installing brake lines. I like my SS lines, they, along with Vesrah pads, improved braking. Sometimes they seep until they're fully tightened. I just do a little at at time, being very careful not to over torque and snap the banjo bolt (don't ask me how I know). After a few little snugs, I've always gotten the seeping to stop. I always think I have them as tight as I dare, but sometimes they need just a tiny, tiny bit more.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2014, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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My error, I meant "not an inexpensive mod". Was not easy to justify and used my total budget for the bike.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2014, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MTS View Post
Think he meant ( AN EXPENSIVE MOD ).
Yes, exactly, thanks!
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2014, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HondaGalToo View Post
Nice! So your exhaust is a full system? Replaced the headers?

If they're quality frame sliders, no worries on those bolts being the new motor mounts. I've installed frame sliders on all my sportbikes, no worries. One recommendation would be to put a dab of anti-seize on, then torque to mfr spec.

Ah, installing brake lines. I like my SS lines, they, along with Vesrah pads, improved braking. Sometimes they seep until they're fully tightened. I just do a little at at time, being very careful not to over torque and snap the banjo bolt (don't ask me how I know). After a few little snugs, I've always gotten the seeping to stop. I always think I have them as tight as I dare, but sometimes they need just a tiny, tiny bit more.
That is where I was initially confused, maybe still am, but when I removed the cat/exhaust, that is all that is left are headers, they just go straight through, no restriction in the remaining pipes. Other bikes have a cat and then slip on exhaust separate. I even called 2 Bros and they said if a cat is still remaining, no need for a fuel module but if cat is removed, very recommended.

Thanks for the info on the sliders, I do check them after every few rides though. And also for the SS line advice. Yes, I did the same and the rear and left front stopped leaking but the right front is about as tight as I dare go. I am thinking of a 2nd washer? Maybe not the best idea........
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-22-2014, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by krispradez View Post
I thought klr is the dual sport model, no need to mod the rims if you choose it
Totally right, the V cannot compete with the KLR in the rough stuff, and I would never try. But I like the extra 30hp so will stay on smooth fire roads
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 03:39 PM
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REALLY keep an eye on your tire 'blocks'. I (and many others) had tread separations w/ 705s, on the rear. Check your tire temps (w/ your hand) after about 25 miles - my F was OK, my R was VERY hot!


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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bmacneil2008 View Post
...
10) Vario Touring Screen
Worth every penney. Only wind is at top of shoulders/face. I am 6”.
...

I'm confused... I thought the Vario Screen was supposed to throw the air stream over you head!

I have the Kawasaki/MRA High Screen which is basically your screen without the Vario Touring add on Screen.
You are shorter than me so you should have better air flow over your head not into your shoulders.
I'm 6'4" and no matter what setting I put my screen at the wind stream is hitting me square in the Visor, and this caused me very annoying buffeting like some one is hand drumming onto top of the helmet

I have been looking at getting another Taller Screen either Givi or CalSci, but in the interim I have raised the Screen by 70mm which has reduced significantly the buffeting drummer on my head, but I have notice more the wind noise as there is now a bit of side turbulance (probably due to the narrow screen width).

Last edited by Gigitt; 02-24-2014 at 06:18 PM.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I may need to try different angles for the mini tilt screen but with my current setup, the wind starts just at the top of my shoulders and on up. Much better than stock but could be I need to spend more time in adjusting. Glad you posted otherwise I would have just lived with it.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
REALLY keep an eye on your tire 'blocks'. I (and many others) had tread separations w/ 705s, on the rear. Check your tire temps (w/ your hand) after about 25 miles - my F was OK, my R was VERY hot!

Yes, I think I read the same. Thanks for the reminder. So far the ties have been great.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-01-2014, 10:02 AM
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Nice build bmacneil2008. I have a question for you on how you set your map up for your Yoshi exhaust, would you post the #s you used to set you fuel levels for your Yoshi. I have the same set up and set it to the stock map that came with my juice box. I do have an alternative map that I'm going to try but it's always good to have real world advice if something works better. My bike runs so much better with the settings I have now. Peace
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-01-2014, 10:06 AM
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Just caught your added item #16, I'm the same with my PX4 Beretta. For extra measure did my state CHL also, received about a month ago.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-01-2014, 11:01 AM
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19 inch, juice box, two bros, wire wheels, woody's

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