Easter Beaver PC8 Install - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-09-2009, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Easter Beaver PC8 Install

Being a frakle hound I plan to add a bunch of gadgets and gizmos. Because of this I decided to add an Eastern Beaver PC8 fuse panel. This is a brand new part from Eastern Beaver, I was actually pre-order #1! It provides 8 fused circuits, 6 that are switched via a relay and 2 that are always on.

Well I recently installed it and thought others might like to see my install. When I do my installations I like to do as little that is permanent, so I can easily return it to factor spec if needed. Also I did not want to install it under the seat. Although it is much more convenient to install it under the seat if you blow a fuse, I wanted room for other things, and found a good place, behind the side panel near the radiator fluid reservoir. This location also has the advantage of being close to the gauges where most of my electrical doodads will be installed; meaning shorter cable runs.

Because of this the standard cabling that Jim at Eastern Beaver provides is not the right length, I contacted him and he made me a custom cable for me for the same price as his normal 48" harness! Jim runs a great business and he is very responsive and helpful; even for a non Versys owner!

Here is what a normal lead looks like, with the custom lengths listed next to the wires. Note that the switching lead needs a red, not blue connector. My custom size places the relay close to the fuse panel, and away from the battery leads.


Total time for this install is about an hour. This includes removal and reinstall of body panels.

Step 1: Remove the side pod (6 bolts, 4mm Hex Wrench) and black side (1 Bolt, 4mm Hex) cover:

I have to remove my Cee Baily wind screen as well, not sure if you need to with other screens.

Step 2: Enlarge the whole on the relay, and remove the mounting bolt (10mm I think) from the radiator fluid reservoir, mount the relay to the bolt, tilting it up slightly so that the side pod can clear it:



Step 3: Mount the PC8 to the side of the gas tank using 3M Dual Lock Strips (also sold by Eastern Beaver). Make sure you leave clearance for wires, don't mount it too high.


Step 4: Attach the switching lead from the relay to the right side maker light wires. Zip tie it to the frame.


Step 5: Run the main battery leads along the side of the tank, under the black side cover and under the tank mounting brace. You will have to remove the fuse cover to get this under the tank.




Step 6: Attach battery leads to the battery:


Step 6: Install fuses and reinstall the body panels and your done! When putting on the body panels I recommend using a socket wrench to make sure you get them tight, otherwise you will get buzzing from them.

Steve
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonerockz View Post
....Install fuses and reinstall the body panels and your done! When putting on the body panels I recommend using a socket wrench to make sure you get them tight, otherwise you will get buzzing from them.

Steve
if you do choose to use a socket to tighten then body panel screws then make sure you don't over tighten. Ideally use a torque wrench set to the appropriate value. Ive yet to have a problem with a "quarter turn" on the allen/hex key.

I'm also surprised that you decided to stick a fuse panel behind the bodywork as it makes checking thise auxillary fuses a pain having to remove the bolt. But as you are providing power to seconday items I suppose its no biggie if a fuse blows. If you have room then under the seat makes a better location in my books.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 06:48 AM
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Nice write up, thanks.

Great idea putting the fuse panel up front, it's almost like the V put that area there so you can wire all your crap right there by your handle bars insead of having to string every wire back to the seat

fitz
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 09:21 AM
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Super. I've been contemplating the FuzeBlock http://www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php

But I like this better. Can you give me specifics as to your harness? I'd like to mount mine just as you did yours..

Thanks!
Jim
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Hedlam, you are correct that checking fuses is a lot easier under the seat, but I have other plans for any space where this would fit. It is a pain to have to take off the panels, but I need the space.

MackDaddy, if you contact Jim at Eastern Beaver he will make one for you. The first pic shows the modified dimensions that I chose. Basically:

PC8 <-> Relay 12"
Relay <-> Battery 36"
Relay <-> switch lead 24"
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2009, 05:36 AM
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Thanks Steven. I didn't realize you posted the specs of your harness in the first post!

Take care,
Jim

Edit: Just sent an email to Jim with a link to this thread. Thanks again!!

Last edited by MackDaddy; 05-13-2009 at 05:51 AM.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 09:45 AM
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Can someone tell me which kit to get if I'm installing the Eastern Beaver PC-8 under the seat?

Thanks!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 11:23 PM
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Fyi

I wrote to Jim and asked about the setup described here. This is his response:

That was a custom order. However, I'm very sorry to say I no longer have time
for such orders. I'm sure you can fit one of my stock PC-8 Kits that are online.
A 48 inch kit should work fine. Switching leads are 24" normally. The only
difference will be the location of the relay. On stock kit's it's closer to the
battery rather than his custom location which is nearer the front.

Also, you can make the Kit yourself, as I sell all the items you'll need to
make one exactly like the one you see online.


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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 12:33 AM
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Making your own harness should be very simple so if you want to copy JDRocks harness just get the parts and go for it.

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SWM Engine Guard; Windscreen de Jour on a MadStad bracket; Motowerk Peg Lowering kit & Stand Big Foot; ProTaper ATV Low bars; Stebel horn; KTM Duals Rear Rack; Coocase 36L topcase...and more to come


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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 07:29 AM
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What happens when you get caught in the rain? Your bike, your call, but I'd never mount a fuse panel in that location. Eastern Beaver makes quality stuff but "splashproof" won't keep out water when gravity and the path of least resistance do their thing. What are you planning to put under the seat that matters more than dry electricals?


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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 07:30 AM
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If you can go for the under-the-seat install, the PC8 - 18 kit works great.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 06:39 PM
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Thanks!

Thanks, you guys!

I agree that under the seat looks like the best strategy. If I decide to do my own harness, do I want just the fuse panel, or do I need a relay kit, too? Positaps?


Cat

Last edited by CopyCat; 05-04-2011 at 05:19 PM.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 06:28 AM
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Fuzeblock is not the least expensive of the bunch, but it has the relay built in. Also, you can choose whether any of 6 connections are hot or switched, it's compact and well built, uses mini fuses you can find at any auto parts store, and fits perfectly in the space immediately aft of the battery. The guy who designed it and owns the company (Curt Gran) is a serious long distance rider and a nice guy, so I'm glad to give him my business.

Posi-taps are a good choice, as are Posi-locks. Napa usually stocks them, although there are usually package deals through internet sources where you can buy a whole box of them for a much better price per item. Search posi-taps or posi-locks with Google Shopping to find the best deal, then find a buddy who wants some and split an order.


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Last edited by Bones; 03-02-2011 at 06:30 AM.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 10:28 AM
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You do need the relay, this lets the the sources be switched, but the power is taken from the battery via a nice fat wire. PC-8 is a quality set-up.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
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You do need the relay, this lets the the sources be switched, but the power is taken from the battery via a nice fat wire. PC-8 is a quality set-up.
via a nice fat wire...with an inline fuse between the battery and the auxiliary fuse box.


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