Moto Werk 1" handlebar risers (2015+) install Q - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Moto Werk 1" handlebar risers (2015+) install Q

So I ordered the 1" risers from Moto Werk.

I followed the install instructions but noticed something concerning the top clamp.

Should there be this much of a gap between the top clamp and the riser?

Thanks.


2017 Versys 650 LT -- Titanium
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 02:09 PM
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Is that gap from AFTER you tightened the front bolts (to 'snug'), then finished by torquing the rear bolts to 18'/#?
(Looks to me that it is....)

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, that is after tightening per the instructions.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Gap is in the front if I get the back part of the top clamp touching the riser.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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So I "split the difference". The front and back have roughly the same gap between the top clamp and riser. (No picture.)

All torqued to 18 ft/lb.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/11...57159767210442

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 08:25 PM
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The reason the instructions say to tighten the top bolts first is because the gap is suppose to be at the bottom. Same way on my 09 V-650 and my V-1000

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 09:36 PM
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I think You have the top bridge on backwards-lay it on a flat surface you will see one side is flat on the table the other has the gap-no gap goes to the front of the bar- tighten the front two first than snug the rear two

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 11:45 PM
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You can't install it backwards. Without the gap, you cannot tighten. If there is no gap, it will be loose! You are good as long as the tops are even and the bottoms are evenly gapped.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys.

Back to the way it was in my first post.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebel13 View Post
You can't install it backwards. Without the gap, you cannot tighten. If there is no gap, it will be loose! You are good as long as the tops are even and the bottoms are evenly gapped.
Service manual section 14-11 14-12

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weljo2001 View Post
The reason the instructions say to tighten the top bolts first is because the gap is suppose to be at the bottom. Same way on my 09 V-650 and my V-1000....
What Joe says.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motorboy View Post
I think You have the top bridge on backwards-lay it on a flat surface you will see one side is flat on the table the other has the gap-no gap goes to the front of the bar- tighten the front two first than snug the rear two
ALSO - what motorboy said.

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Originally Posted by Rebel13 View Post
You can't install it backwards. Without the gap, you cannot tighten. If there is no gap, it will be loose! You are good as long as the tops are even and the bottoms are evenly gapped.
Manual says to have the FRONT snugged to NO GAP and the gap at the REAR when torqued to 18'/#.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weljo2001 View Post
The reason the instructions say to tighten the top bolts first is because the gap is suppose to be at the bottom. Same way on my 09 V-650 and my V-1000....
What Joe says.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motorboy View Post
I think You have the top bridge on backwards-lay it on a flat surface you will see one side is flat on the table the other has the gap-no gap goes to the front of the bar- tighten the front two first than snug the rear two
ALSO - what motorboy said.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel13 View Post
...You are good as long as the tops are even and the bottoms are evenly gapped.
Manual says to have the FRONT snugged to NO GAP and the gap at the REAR when torqued to 18'/#.

Ed
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Manual says to have the FRONT snugged to NO GAP and the gap at the REAR when torqued to 18'/#.
It really doesn't matter as long as it is tourqued and gapped evenly side to side. The reason the manual says that is so that you have a base alignment(a cheater) at all four points when aligning the first two instead of actually using a gauge for accuracy..
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 12:56 PM
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I am glad this thread popped up as I am about to order the 1 inch risers. Two questions: 1) Weljo, did you have to do anything to carry you RAM ball mount over to use after the risers? Seems like it would require a longer bolt than supplied with risers? 2) Do you have to do anything with the cables with 1 inch risers? I know some other/higher risers require taking the cables out of the holders down near the shock tubes. I am the least mechanical here-what does it take to get the cables out of those loops? Fairing off or can you just reach down in there and set them free? Thanks for your help, and my back and hands will thank you if this is an easy mod.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cjcintucson View Post
I am glad this thread popped up as I am about to order the 1 inch risers. Two questions: 1) Weljo, did you have to do anything to carry you RAM ball mount over to use after the risers? Seems like it would require a longer bolt than supplied with risers? 2) Do you have to do anything with the cables with 1 inch risers? I know some other/higher risers require taking the cables out of the holders down near the shock tubes. I am the least mechanical here-what does it take to get the cables out of those loops? Fairing off or can you just reach down in there and set them free? Thanks for your help, and my back and hands will thank you if this is an easy mod.


On my 650 this is all i needed...https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Motorcy...ram+ball+mount .Can't remember what length bolt i used but it was one of the three that came with the ball mount. On the 1000 I wanted the bolt to match the stainless Steel ones that came with the risers so i went to a hardware store and picked one up. Again i can't remember the length i had it written down but lost it. On the 650 and 1000 the cables were fine didn't have to do anything with them. Just put a towel on the tank so you won't get a paint chip in it like i did mine when dropped a socket wrench....

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 03:20 PM
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Thanks Weljo. My 2011 came to me used with those RAM balls already mounted on the two upper bolt points. If the current bolts aren't long enough (probably won't be) I will just head to the hardware store. I plan to only use one ball for the present time on the riser install for my GPS.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your help, and my back and hands will thank you if this is an easy mod.
Install should take less than 15 minutes.

And as written above, you do not need to do anything with the cables.

.

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 10:30 PM
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It really doesn't matter as long as it is tourqued and gapped evenly side to side. The reason the manual says that is so that you have a base alignment(a cheater) at all four points when aligning the first two instead of actually using a gauge for accuracy..
Nope-WE just went over this- the reason the manual says to do it that way is so the bars will not fall off-anyone on this site that thinks they are smarter than Kawasaki rise your hand if so you need to call Yoshinori Kanehana at 011-081-673-8666 and ask for a job
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Last edited by motorboy; 10-17-2017 at 11:16 PM. Reason: joke
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 06:44 AM
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Nope-WE just went over this- the reason the manual says to do it that way is so the bars will not fall off-anyone on this site that thinks they are smarter than Kawasaki rise your hand if so you need to call Yoshinori Kanehana at 011-081-673-8666 and ask for a job
Um, yes! The service manual is just a factory guide! There is often more than one way to do things. Learning about engineering and punctuation helps!

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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 10:13 AM
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I'm at a lost for words over your last statement so I will not comment further-on my lack of punctuation to a layperson it would seem so-but I'm sure there are a few on this site that understand my style-hint- it's called no emotion reporting and I used it for so many years I have forgot all other ways

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