Handlebar replacement - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Handlebar replacement

Some time ago in a brain-dead moment I was moving things around in the garage. So I back the Jeep out, then move the V to the driveway, put the kickstand down, and walk back into the garage. Then I hear the sound we all dread- crash! as the Versys hit the pavement.
So the handlebars are bent on the impact side. How hard are they to replace? Does it just entail removing everything then reinstalling on the new bars?
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:40 AM
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:50 AM
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I like the bend of the stock handlebars. What are the closest aftermarket bars? I can't use the fat bars because I want to keep the KTM handguards.
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:26 AM
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You might be able to keep the KTM handguards and use tapered bars (but I certainly don't know for sure). I had Barkbusters on my Tag Metals T2 bars. I use a Rox riser to adapt to the fat lower part of the tapered bars.

But they don't have the same bend as the stock bars.

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Old 09-27-2011, 12:16 PM
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Wow sorry to hear that! Why do you think your bike fell if the kick stand was on concrete?? Wind?





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Old 09-27-2011, 04:52 PM
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While we are on the subject, other than Rox, does anybody else have risers or adapters to go from 7/8" bars to fat bars? I really don't need a 2" rise that the Rox riser/adapters offer. Sadly, since the bar clamp holes on V are slightly offset, 'generic and/or universal' type adapters won't work.
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:37 PM
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I just got done replacing my handlebars with Protaper SE ATV hi's. I had to drill 4 holes in them (two for the throttle body and the signal cluster locators and two for cable management). I removed the crossbar. The SE (Seven Eights) bars don't need any adapters, they fit right in where the factory handlebars go.
It looks good and it feels a bit upright just sitting on the bike. The mirrors are higher, so hopefully that means I can see better. I am hoping I don't get more vibration as the handlebar end weights are off right now.

I will post more once I ride the bike.

PS - I rode about 200 miles with the bent handlebars - no adverse effects.
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Old 11-03-2011, 09:29 PM
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Looking at Renthal as easier to be found here having OEM size 7/8" bars.
Tag Metal or Pro Taper shipping here sure is a deal killer.
Putting a 1 1/8" would require a rox riser which shipping would also not be cheap.

Looking at renthal HONDA TRX250R (FOURTRAX)
http://www.renthal.com/File/apps1.as...del=&bikedate=


Versys OEM handlebar dimensions:

Width 775 mm
Rise 140mm
Sweep 90 mm
Pullback 60 mm

Appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

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Old 11-10-2011, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlee29 View Post
Looking at Renthal as easier to be found here having OEM size 7/8" bars.
Tag Metal or Pro Taper shipping here sure is a deal killer.
Putting a 1 1/8" would require a rox riser which shipping would also not be cheap.

Looking at renthal HONDA TRX250R (FOURTRAX)
http://www.renthal.com/File/apps1.as...del=&bikedate=


Versys OEM handlebar dimensions:

Width 775 mm
Rise 140mm
Sweep 90 mm
Pullback 60 mm

Appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
Thanks for posting the stock dimensions. I threw my Versys down the road last month, and one of the damages was a slightly bent handlebar, so I'm looking for aftermarket suggestions too.

Kurt


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Old 11-10-2011, 07:55 PM
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G'Day Kurt,

Please see http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...449#post177449.

Thanks.

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Old 11-11-2011, 04:18 PM
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Those numbers on the OEM bar didn't look quite right to me so I just got back from pulling the bar off my '08 on doing my own measurements.

Now, based on ProTaper's description of Height, Width, Rise & Sweep, these are my numbers:



A = 760
B = 130
C = 75

D = 190 (center to center where the OE bars are knurled = 85)
E = 90

All measurements were made as close as possible from center to center. So, depending on how you measured, the numbers may/will be different.

Some of my pictures - it doesn't work well since pictures are not 3D and what your eyes see vs. what the camera sees is pretty different.

Width










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Old 12-06-2011, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stallhorn View Post
I just got done replacing my handlebars with Protaper SE ATV hi's. I had to drill 4 holes in them (two for the throttle body and the signal cluster locators and two for cable management). I removed the crossbar. The SE (Seven Eights) bars don't need any adapters, they fit right in where the factory handlebars go.
It looks good and it feels a bit upright just sitting on the bike. The mirrors are higher, so hopefully that means I can see better. I am hoping I don't get more vibration as the handlebar end weights are off right now.

I will post more once I ride the bike.

PS - I rode about 200 miles with the bent handlebars - no adverse effects.
I have been looking at replacing my bars as well but. I dont want to use an adapter but I dont like cross bars. Stallhorn, any problems removing the crossbar on the Pro Tapers? I dont plan on off roading at all, only sport touring really. Will the bars be strong enough without the cross bar. If so I will order ASAP
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:00 AM
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Cross-bar on pro-tapers comes right off. I have CR-Hi Pro Taper and have had the bar on and the bar off.

You do not have to drill the bar as the original has been drilled. Just dremel the little plastic post off the inside of the assembly you are mounting and put a couple wraps of friction tape or electrical tape on the bar (not my invention...this trick has been around for a longggg time). The bar makers will all tell you that drilling the bar significantly weakens it. Whether this is something to worry about, or not, is open to debate.

2009 Kawasaki Versys
SWM Engine Guard; Windscreen de Jour on a MadStad bracket; Motowerk Peg Lowering kit & Stand Big Foot; ProTaper ATV Low bars; Stebel horn; KTM Duals Rear Rack; Coocase 36L topcase...and more to come


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Old 12-07-2011, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kimel View Post
Cross-bar on pro-tapers comes right off. I have CR-Hi Pro Taper and have had the bar on and the bar off.

You do not have to drill the bar as the original has been drilled. Just dremel the little plastic post off the inside of the assembly you are mounting and put a couple wraps of friction tape or electrical tape on the bar (not my invention...this trick has been around for a longggg time). The bar makers will all tell you that drilling the bar significantly weakens it. Whether this is something to worry about, or not, is open to debate.
Cool, thanks. How does the CR hi work for you. Any problems with the fairing? I was looking at the KX high, I already have a SW Motech 20 mm riser that I planned to leave on. I just wanted something a little sportier looking I guess
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Old 12-08-2011, 01:37 AM
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I have mine on 2" Rox risers so that changes things up a bunch over the stock position.. Someone here is riding CR Highs w/out risers but I don't recall who...so it must work. With your riser they should work just fine. Had to play a bit to make it work with the Givi screen but wasn't a big deal.

The change in bars with the risers really changed th bike for me. Although now it kind of feels like a big dirt bike but that is way more comfortable for me.

I got my bars new on sale for $45. It's an easy swap so give it a try and see what you think.

2009 Kawasaki Versys
SWM Engine Guard; Windscreen de Jour on a MadStad bracket; Motowerk Peg Lowering kit & Stand Big Foot; ProTaper ATV Low bars; Stebel horn; KTM Duals Rear Rack; Coocase 36L topcase...and more to come


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Last edited by kimel; 12-08-2011 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:27 AM
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I would like to mount an aftermarket handlebars on the Versys 650.
Original costs 90 €.
You can link me one from ebay?
thanks
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