Painting? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-11-2008, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Painting?

I am determined to repaint some of the smaller parts/accessories on my new V but have no previous experience. Do I need an air gun/compressor, or will auto quality spray paint work? Do I need to sand off the old paint first, or can I just primer over it? Any recommended paint brands? I'm looking at painting a front fender extender, and other simple plastic parts/metal parts. Thanks!
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-11-2008, 09:42 PM
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What he said.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-12-2008, 07:55 PM
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If you're patient canned spray paint will work. The major brands such as Krylon and DupliColor work very well. Just put on three to five very light layers. You'll need 320 or 400 grit wet/dry sand paper to sand each part before painting. Sand it using running water so the paint or other material washes away as you're sanding. Right before painting wipe it down with alcohol or other solvent to make sure all of the oil from your skin is removed. Wear latex gloves (non-powdered). The biggest challenge I've found is keeping dust, bugs etc out of the paint while it's drying. You can build a paint booth out of plastic drop cloths, but if you do make sure you wear a respirator type mask.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-12-2008, 08:12 PM
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The best thing to do is to send it to me.

































But you can do it yourself.


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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-12-2008, 09:03 PM
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Question - if i buy from Color Rite. All i need is the Paint, Base, Clear Coat and Primer? I don't need the Reducer do i?
If i sand it down like 'lanesplitter' explained. All should be good, huh?
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-12-2008, 09:09 PM
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You will have to reduce the basecoat. Some clears have to be reduced and if it is a 2k clear it will have to be activated. Textured parts are hard to paint. You will need a good adhesive promoter. They never do look perfect but with a little care they will be okay.


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2008, 07:20 PM
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You will have to reduce the basecoat. Some clears have to be reduced and if it is a 2k clear it will have to be activated. Textured parts are hard to paint. You will need a good adhesive promoter. They never do look perfect but with a little care they will be okay.
I am looking at buying all the Color Rite in aerosol cans. So do i still need the reducer?? I am just looking at painting the trellis under the rear seat and the ground effects around the bottom of the engine.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2008, 07:43 PM
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I am looking at buying all the Color Rite in aerosol cans. So do i still need the reducer?? I am just looking at painting the trellis under the rear seat and the ground effects around the bottom of the engine.

If you use spray cans you will not need any reducer. I would still use plastic promoter on the textured parts. You cannot sand textured parts without doing some harm to them. The promoter softens the parts up a little so the paint will stick. You can buy it at any auto parts store that sells paint supplies. It also comes in a spray can.


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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2008, 08:06 PM
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Plastic promoter, got it. Hey thanks mountainrider. Gotta love this forum.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2008, 08:10 PM
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It is nice to be able to help people work on their vehicles.


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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-14-2008, 05:33 PM
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I just finished painting the lower engine fairings on my V with PPG paint and clear coat. It's the OEM passion red color. I used the Preval sprayer mentioned on other posts, which worked very well. Here's the bottom line. It turned out okay. A paint shop quoted me $130 to paint both parts. I ended up paying about $120 for paint, clear coat/hardener, plastic and sprayer. I built my own paint booth out of the plastic. I had to sand out several runs after spraying the base coat, and ended up with a couple of runs with the clear coat, which I hope I can sand and buff out. If I had to do it over again I would pay the paint guy and I am very much a DIY kind of guy, because, I hate letting anyone else work on my stuff.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-14-2008, 06:34 PM
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Hmm - that's what is worrying me. I too am a DIY kind of guy, but don't know about my skills with a paint gun.
If anyone wants to send me their lower fairings, i could practice on them first.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-14-2008, 06:56 PM
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Basecoat clearcoat systems are easy to use. If you do get a run or have some trash you can most likely sand them out. I sand the runs out with 1000 grit sandpaper and then go back over it with 2000 grit before buffing. No matter how good you are you will get a run every now and then. The best thing to do is to get a piece of metal or plastic and pratice for a while. You do not have to use high price paint to do this. Learn where you need the gun adjusted ,every painter is different. I have done it so long that I can adjust myself to the gun. The distance from the surface and the speed you travel will affect how the paint job comes out. You can make the paint lighter or darker with speed and distance. I hope this helps.


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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-14-2008, 10:17 PM
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Mountainrider - thanks for the tip on the sandpaper. I'll try it on my "runs" this weekend. I guess if I had a real paint gun it might have been a little different...maybe next time.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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This might sound horrible, but I REALLY want the foot stay and radiator covers painted black. Do I absolutely have to sand them down? Or can I just spray over them, and use a clear protection coat afterwards? I will of course wash with soap to remove oils etc, but is the sanding really necessary? Also, I have used a lot of spray paint in my time, and am VERY good at doing light multiple coats. However, I have never painted automotive plastics...
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 07:36 PM
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Finally got around to fixing the run using Mountainrider's suggestion. Worked like a charm except I used a file to knock down one of the runs because it so large. Kinda looked like a wart.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 11:01 PM
 
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OK Mr. Mountainrider ,
Considering the fact that you put your appreciated kowledge out here , I am looking at painting my lower engine fairings red . So I am to assume that the ... UH.... UH... , Oh yeah , promoter will get me prep'd ?
Any idea on what Brand of paint and what color that brand calls their color that will most closely match my passion red machine ? Oh , and should I use some sort of primer or just shoot directly onto the black . I am thinking directly onto the black will make my red to dark . Am I right , or am I wrong ? LOL
Whew , is that allot of questions or what ?

Last edited by PO-SLOKE; 09-02-2008 at 11:07 PM.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 05:57 AM
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OK Mr. Mountainrider ,
Considering the fact that you put your appreciated kowledge out here , I am looking at painting my lower engine fairings red . So I am to assume that the ... UH.... UH... , Oh yeah , promoter will get me prep'd ?
Any idea on what Brand of paint and what color that brand calls their color that will most closely match my passion red machine ? Oh , and should I use some sort of primer or just shoot directly onto the black . I am thinking directly onto the black will make my red to dark . Am I right , or am I wrong ? LOL
Whew , is that allot of questions or what ?
I used PPG Passion Red. If you go to a PPG automotive paint retailer I can give you the paint formula. You can get sealers in different colors and we always seal our parts before painting them.


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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 08:29 AM
 
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Mountainrider ,

Sounds good but I was hoping to use the slackers method and go the rattle can route . Unless of course the rattle can paint is found to NOT be holding .I had rather keep the black than have long term maintnenance on the paint job .
I am one to like quick , easy and relatively inexpensive farkling . LOL . But of course , I always want the impossible perect professional hard to accomplish look . LOL/LOL

I know , I know , I prolly sound like one of your cutomers now huh ? LOL
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-10-2008, 12:28 PM
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I painted my radiator and frame/foot cover about 3 weeks ago and they still look awesome. I went black, and whenever I paint something plastic I using rattlecan, I use Krylon Fusion. Fusion is what it says, it fuses to plastic with no primer neccesary. Just be careful to use multiple light coats to avoid runs.
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