V35 AdMore Lighting (part 1) - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 1 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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V35 AdMore Lighting (part 1)

Hoy all! Finally, enough time to finish my post on my installation of the V35 kit from AdMore Lighting. Since itís long winded, itís going to be a two-part post, due to the amount of photos attached. So part one will deal with the case installation, and part two will deal with the under seat harness installation.

After reading the instructions, and then thinking out how to better install the V35 lighting kit from AdMore Lighting < http://www.admorelighting.com/ >, I came up with these ideas. Thought Iíd passíem along for yíall.
Lights: I started backwards, from the lights to the wiring harness connect. I incorporated someoneís idea of reflective tape on the insert behind the lens. But just on the side, to stay in compliance with regs on the reflectors.



I stuck both to some DOT C2 tape I had plenty of, and then cut them out with an X-Acto knife.





I found it difficult to keep the lights in place, so I used a piece of tape to do so.



Retro thinking, I should have put a strip of the reflective tape between the rows of LEDs. Now that I have them installed, it would be tricky.





Wiring cases: Since we must drill holes into the cases, my main priority was to have as few entry points for water to get in. For the LED wires on the outer shell half, I chose to drill the hole in the seal channel.





The seal is displaced a little, but Iím sure it wonít interfere with its task.



Onto the inner shell half. To make the transition between the two halves, I studied this carefully. And this is the solution I came up with. Thereís a section of the inner half that has a double wall. To help keep the wire in place, I found the depth of the space between the walls to drill a hole for the wire to come up through.



The hole is 1 3/8Ē deep from the inner lip. Any deeper will result in not being able to feed the wire sheath through.



I also made a divot in the lip of the case, so the wires wouldnít get smashed when the case was closed.



Ok now, here is where I made a big mistake. I chose this location for the case harness because of the flat surface it provides and its easily accessible on the external side. A pilot hole was drilled in the center of the casting bung, and then the supplied bit was used.



PLEASE NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE CASE HARNESS. In the picture below, I have the harness wires facing down. DONíT DO THIS! The result may break the case harness as I found out the hard way. On seeing if my helmet would still fit, you guessed it. We wonít go into how I broke the otherÖ Well, if you must know, I stepped on it by accident. DíOH!



AdMore said I was the first person to break the 90į case harness, and I jokingly said, ďI get the bonehead award eh!Ē Once the replacement harnesses arrived, I thought long and hard about what I was going to do. I thought about relocating the case harnesses, but then Iíd have drill another hole. Just something I try avoid if possible. Here was my solution. As you can see in the pic below, the threaded portion of the case harness has a flange.



So in order to give the body of the case harness more stability, I glued a piece of single strength Plexiglas to the back. I purposely left the piece long to engage the rise in the molded area inside the case.







Some careful shaving (with a Dremmel) of the exposed edge of the plexi was necessary to get the harness to sit flush on the flange. I feel confident Iíll have no more problems with breakage, since I made sure my helmet fit.
To get the wiring to stay in one place, I used the supplied clips.

"I read somewhere that 77 per cent of all the mentally ill live in poverty. Actually, I'm more intrigued by the 23 per cent who are apparently doing quite well for themselves." -- Jerry Garcia
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