Brakes system - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-19-2010, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Brakes system

Hey anybody done any brake work to their Versys?

I like the stock brakes but I noticed when I start on it pretty good the brakes fade.....

I seen on ebay wave "braking" rotors for VERY inexpensive compared to like the Galfer wave rotors. Has anyone tried them?

how about upgraded brake lines:
what did you go with and how do you like them?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-19-2010, 10:06 PM
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you're sure that it's not your brake fluid causing the fade?

In a world full of people, only some want to ride. Isn't that crazy?
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-19-2010, 10:16 PM
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WeekendWarrior

Are you refering to the back brakes. If it's the back brake then it is normal on the V, but the front is pretty good. Did some service on the back brake and replace with SUS braided line. So far good with Original V brakes.
Try bleeding the brake lines.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-19-2010, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry I was referring to the front brakes. I dont think its the fuild bike only has 600 miles.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-19-2010, 11:38 PM
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Some of us on the forums replace the front pads to EBC HP pads. There were quite a few tread talking about this.

After I replaced the pad, my brake is now way better!

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-20-2010, 12:10 AM
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My fronts came with air in the front brake circuit. Still could stand bleeding.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-20-2010, 03:54 AM
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Sorry I was referring to the front brakes. I dont think its the fuild bike only has 600 miles.
Doesn,t matter weather its 600miles or New. Just bleed the brake and you got nothing to lose. The front on the V is really good. I just finger them and have installed TCB system one unit on the master.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-20-2010, 07:52 AM
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Replaced pads (Ferodo) and changed lines to braided stainless steel (Goodridge 2 full length front/rear) and took the time to bleed correctly. After that, there is no fade and the front brake lever feel is improved. I had an issue last year where I had to come to a panic (?) stop and my two little fingers were bruised by the lever because of the lines bulging. This is no longer the case. I very much recommend this upgrade. I find it amazing that ppl will buy pipes, windshields, seats, panniers, but won't upgrade brakes or add brake light modulators. I say safety first!

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-20-2010, 08:14 AM
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+1 on the ss lines and aftermarket pads up front. Two finger stopping with great feel and practically no fade. The original rotors seem to work fine (when you keep the bobbins lubed....).

Ride To Live, Live To Ride....no, really!
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-20-2010, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StonedGP View Post
I find it amazing that ppl will buy pipes, windshields, seats, panniers, but won't upgrade brakes or add brake light modulators. I say safety first!

I agree about the upgrading parts if you are experiencing a problem...but if it aint broke why fix it....
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-20-2010, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeekendWarrior View Post
Hey anybody done any brake work to their Versys?

I like the stock brakes but I noticed when I start on it pretty good the brakes fade.....

I seen on ebay wave "braking" rotors ...
how about upgraded brake lines:...
FWIW, I haven’t done any track type braking with dozens of back-to-back very hard stops... but I have done a few semi-aggressive `laps’ on the back roads with a fair amount of pretty hard braking & not much time between the corners and I haven’t experienced any noticeable fade whatsoever. I also haven’t seen any issues with the stock lines, in fact this thing stops so well that I’m afraid to use more than 2 fingers.

I’d bleed the brakes thoroughly with fresh fluid to make sure there’s no air and/or moisture in the system before I’d start changing pads, etc.

[PS Edit]
I’m specifically talking about the front brake. My rear does feel a little mushy but I haven’t bled it yet so I don’t know if it’s air, line expansion or what...
.

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Last edited by Hardware; 05-20-2010 at 09:30 AM.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-20-2010, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotav899 View Post
I agree about the upgrading parts if you are experiencing a problem...but if it aint broke why fix it....
Quote:
Originally Posted by StonedGP
I find it amazing that ppl will buy pipes, windshields, seats, panniers, but won't upgrade brakes or add brake light modulators. I say safety first!




+1 on that, but its not abount not wanting to upgarde the brake system, its also the ablity to handle the upgrade.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-20-2010, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StonedGP
I find it amazing that ppl will buy pipes, windshields, seats, panniers, but won't upgrade brakes or add brake light modulators. I say safety first!




+1 on that, but its not abount not wanting to upgarde the brake system, its also the ablity to handle the upgrade.

I hear yah...some ppl don't have a garage or the tools or the knowledge/confidence to do it. But I'm here to tell yah...it's much easier than it may seem. I did it in my drive way in about an hour. Bleeding the brakes took the lions share of the time. VERY worth it. The front brakes are no longer a weakness of this bike after the upgrade. Did my first "stoppie" the other day after my son told me I rode like an old fart. He was right to a certain extent...but a safe fart I shall be

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-21-2010, 07:54 AM
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Where can I get s/s rear brake line ? t/y Cb
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-21-2010, 01:00 PM
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Where can I get s/s rear brake line ? t/y Cb
I have a Goodridge SS line for the rear that i didn't use. PM me if u r interested.

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-22-2010, 04:54 AM
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Remove the cap from the Master Cylinder & fill with Dot 3.
Crack the bleeder on the wheel you were working on. Place a container to catch the fluid. Allow to drip until no air is visible. Do the same to the other side until fluid runs clear.


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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-22-2010, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
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dot 3 or 4?

i will check before i do it but i think motos are dot 4
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-22-2010, 06:56 AM
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DOT 3 and DOT 4 are functionally very similar. 4 has a higher boiling
point, but motorcycle brake systems don't generate the kind of pressure and
temperatures that need it on the street, in general, although it certainly
won't hurt your system to put it in.

DOT 5 is very different--it's silicone based, doesn't absorb water, isn't
corrosive, is bad for some seals, is hard to bleed, and is not miscible
with 3 or 4. Stay away from it--it needs a system designed for it. And it
comes as stock item in Harley's, so it must be terrible. :->

DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 3 & DOT 4 (If I ever get hold of the
bonehead who named DOT 5.1...)

Here's more detail than you really want:

DOT3 is an aliphatic polyether.
DOT4 is borate ester based.
DOT5 is polydimethylsiloxane (silicone based).
DOT5.1 is borate ester based, thus its compatibility with DOT3 and
DOT4.

More information can be obtained from the following standards documents:

DOT3: SAE J1703
DOT4: FMVSS 116; proposed SAE standard J1704
DOT5: SAE J1705
DOT5.1: No SAE spec

If you are interested in obtaining copies of these standards documents, you
may order them directly from SAE at
http://www.sae.org/PRODSERV/STANDARD/gv/179.htm

According to DOT Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards specification
49CFR571.116 (which refers to SAE documents J1703, J1704, J1705), the
minimum equilibrium reflux boiling point requirement in deg C for each is:

DOT 3 205
DOT 4 230
DOT 5 260
DOT 5.1 260

This shows that, all else remaining the same, DOT 5.1 has a significant
advantage in heat capacity over DOT 4. Note that these specifications are
for completely dry (no H2O content) brake fluid.

Of course, all else does not remain the same and other than boiling points
and H2O content (which is very detailed in itself), most other properties
were beyond the scope of testing/interest of my friend. Any other
information should be gained from SAE, DOT or other authority.

In other words....we should use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 NOT DOT 5!!!

Integrity is doing the right thing, even if nobody is watching.

Last edited by StonedGP; 05-22-2010 at 06:59 AM.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-22-2010, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
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Remove the cap from the Master Cylinder & fill with Dot 3.
Crack the bleeder on the wheel you were working on. Place a container to catch the fluid. Allow to drip until no air is visible. Do the same to the other side until fluid runs clear.
You’ll never get the air out of the lines this way – it needs to be pumped thru – and you also don’t want to leave the master cylinder open for an extended period of time because (pre DOT 5) brake fluid absorbs moisture at a voracious rate. See the service manual for the proper procedure.

~~ Live Like You're Dying ~~

Last edited by Hardware; 05-22-2010 at 10:52 AM.
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