R1 Shock Spring Dimensions - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-21-2015, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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R1 Shock Spring Dimensions

Hey folks, I'm trying to be another R1 shock convert. I've got it figured that I need about a 875 lb/in spring for my fat 260 lb ass. But after combing over the internet for three hours tonight, I cannot find spring dimensions for the R1 shock. Can anyone help me with the spring I.D. and static height? I'm trying to order one without having the Ebay shock in my hand yet.

Thanks a million for any information,
John
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MrTripwire View Post
Hey folks, I'm trying to be another R1 shock convert. I've got it figured that I need about a 875 lb/in spring for my fat 260 lb ass. But after combing over the internet for three hours tonight, I cannot find spring dimensions for the R1 shock. Can anyone help me with the spring I.D. and static height?
I think I found it here originally. Though I can't guarantee it would be easy to find in 3hrs right now.

Id is 55mm.

I think I used a 7" x 2.25" spring from here:
http://www.hrpworld.com/store/defaul...5-inch-id.html

The ID of that spring measured 58mm. Fits fine. Some other springs people use (racetech?) need an adapter. Cost more too.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you davidg. I thought I had read it either here or at the UK site and it was 2.25" or 2.50". I would think 2.25" is close enough to 55 mm that a plate should not be needed. So, not to doubt, but are you reasonably sure 7" was what you used? I have no clue without the shock being here and I would like to get a spring coming as the impatient person I am.

Thanks,
John
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 01:50 PM
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Some have used the spring from a cruiser (Yammie?). Check the "R1 SPRING" thread.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 02:27 PM
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Just looked up the receipt to check. Yes, it's 2.25" ID, 7" free length
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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THANK YOU! That's what I needed to know. It looks like I need a 850# or 900# spring from here. http://www.hrpworld.com/store/defaul...inch-id-2.html

I didn't get any "Your Crazy" comments on my choice of spring rates per my 260 lbs plus aluminum side panniers,so I'll take it that I'm in the ball park.

Thanks again, any input welcome.
John
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2015, 12:08 PM
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Latest info I read on "ADVrider" is that the stock V shock-spring is almost exactly the same size as the R1 spring, but about 16kg/mm.


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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2015, 10:51 PM
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Fastoman (or was it 2damax?) used stock V spring in his R1 shock.

Current : Maroon 2011.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-06-2015, 04:26 AM
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JDrocks is da man that will have answers...

He just posted tHis yesterday about using a stock Versys spring in his R1 shock over on ADVrider:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....postcount=3132

Last edited by Gigitt; 03-06-2015 at 04:28 AM.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I got my shock off of a 07 R1 with a stated 11,000 miles on it. A 900 lb/in 2.25"X 7" spring, and two 55mm to 2.25" spring collar adapters. I think I miscalculated my spring rate. The 900 lb spring may be a little light for my weight, but with the two added spring collar adopters it might be alright. Maybe.

As for the opening up the hardened bushing or bearing race, it's been a problem. Holding it in a pair of bronze jaw inserts under a drill press has been difficult at best. I bought a 31/64" carbide bit from Fastenal and pretty much smoked it while hardly scratching the bushing. This thing must be a 65 Rockwell or greater. I spent a considerable amount of time adapting a .50" annular cutter somebody had in a tool box to the drill press. No good. It was either too soft or already too dull to cut it. It wobbled anyway. I was going to try a carbide die drill, (that has to be ordered) but now I'm thinking to hell with D.I.Y. It's off to a machine shop tomorrow and be done with it.

Why am I writing about this? I don't know. Maybe looking for someone to be empathetic about all these trials and tribulations. My girlfriend here could care less. I thought I'd be done by now!

John
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 05:41 PM
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I bought my FIRST R1 shock already set-up (from an inmate here) for my '08, but when I got my second (for my '09), I got a machine-shop to make two bushings to replace the one that "pops" out (the hardened one?), the extra as a spare, then opened up the other bushing on my drill press, increasing the bit size by 64s till it was done. Took awhile, but worked out fine.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I bought my FIRST R1 shock already set-up (from an inmate here) for my '08, but when I got my second (for my '09), I got a machine-shop to make two bushings to replace the one that "pops" out (the hardened one?), the extra as a spare, then opened up the other bushing on my drill press, increasing the bit size by 64s till it was done. Took awhile, but worked out fine.
I'm curious now. Why the decision to make a whole new bushing? Was is not feasible to bore the original, or was it just easier for him to make a new one and get the right length to boot?

John
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 08:38 PM
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I'm curious now. Why the decision to make a whole new bushing? Was is not feasible to bore the original, or was it just easier for him to make a new one and get the right length to boot?

John
just bore the bushing. to my knowledge, no one has ever drilled this hardened SS bushing. the conventional bushing can be carefully drilled, it's just mild steel. the trick is to maintain a new concentric 12mm ID, or you can use the needle bearing/bushing from your Versys shock. takes a little additional work on the R1, but it's the method i use now, OEM replacement parts available for both ends of the R1.

there's a little writeup on shock prep in the build thread here.

your 900# spring is the same as the OEM 16kg/mm Versys spring, and it's what i run.

Last edited by jdrocks; 03-08-2015 at 08:45 PM.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewhtf View Post
Fastoman (or was it 2damax?) used stock V spring in his R1 shock.
Yeap! its me , I used the original V spring and its works just fine.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 12:14 PM
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I'm curious now. Why the decision to make a whole new bushing? Was is not feasible to bore the original, or was it just easier for him to make a new one and get the right length to boot?

John
The machine shop told me they could NOT bore that bushing, so I told them to make new ones.

"jdrocks" solution is probably better...!

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-10-2015, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got it done. It's on and all shimmed up. The machinist happened to have some special end mill the right size from another job. He had to go half way through it, then flip it and do the other end. He's bringing me a window motor to put in his wife's Nissan tomorrow. Fair enough trade. I win he wins.

I did some preliminary adjustments before I left the shop this afternoon. I cranked down on the rebound damper as it was noticeably bouncier than my old shock. It's about one turn out from bottom now and feels pretty good. I left the compression alone for now. I've never had a shock with any compression adjustments so I don't really know what to do with it. I drove home in a driving rain, mostly hwy so it was hard to tell much other than it absorbs bumps better and makes my front feel harsh now. I guess that's a good thing.

Thanks for the help,
John
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 03:09 PM
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I had the same sense after installing my R1 shock, then I changed over to Walmart ATF which made my forks feel MUCH more 'plush'. Another inmate here has also done that w/ the same results.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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I had the same sense after installing my R1 shock, then I changed over to Walmart ATF which made my forks feel MUCH more 'plush'. Another inmate here has also done that w/ the same results.
I know it goes against wisdom, but I have never had good luck with fork oil. ATF seems to work better. My 07 KLR always had a fork stiction problem, even with new bushings. With a service using fork oil the problem would go away for a couple of weeks then return. With ATF the problem would not return for months. Switching back and fourth between the two always produced consistent results. My last service I used straight 10w Rotella with an ounce of Miltech in each leg. It's been over a year and I have no stiction what so ever. I am inclined to try the same on the V.

I also installed Gold Valves in my KLR and it made a phenomenal difference, along with a Moab shock. I wonder how well the Gold Valves or valve work in the V. Do you use one or two on the V? Seeing how one leg is a so called "dead leg", with no innards. Maybe a dumb question, but I really don't know.

John
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-13-2015, 05:18 PM
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Both legs have springs in them. Only one leg has rebound and damping

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