Just did a dynotune yesterday, what's your view? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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Just did a dynotune yesterday, what's your view?



This is the graph i got from the dyno guy. It's missing the torque graph though. i'm kinda worried with the AFR. Seems to be on the high lean side. Is it actually safe?

Truth be told i felt no difference before and after in terms of acceleration. According to wikipedia, stock versys max power is 59.4 so the max i got from this dyno 59.75 is hardly an improvement. Kinda felt i've been had.

Bike is with hi-flow air filter, cleaned, and a yoshi trc without db killer. No mod done to the airbox and the rest of the engine is stock.

Current : Maroon 2011.
- Fender Extender - Radiator Guard - 19mm Nissin radial master - Nissin 4-pot caliper - SS brake lines - Osram Hyper 65W both low/high beam - LED 30w aux floodlights & 3w DRLs - Rear Hugger - Givi crash guards - Yoshimura TRC Carbon - Dynojet PC5 - Scottoiler - R1 shock with Ohlins 14.2 kg/mm spring - Imitation Givi Windshield - Rear Givi rack with 24ltr Givi top box - Bosch dual tones - Z800 stock mirrors.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 02:13 AM
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It's also in Km/hr instead of RPM... Which gear was that in?

Not dangerously lean at 14:1 (stoichometric 14.7 ratio is in between max torque and max fuel efficiency)... More tuning time would be needed to make required fuel corrections to have it between targeted 13:1 (dotted line) and 13.2:1 for maximum torque (and HP) acrosse rev range at WOT (100% throttle). You're at about 13.75:1 at max power (~8500 rpm).

Last edited by invader; 06-05-2013 at 02:16 AM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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Yup, i noticed that as well, km/h instead of rpm. I guess he is running it on 6th gear.

The blue curve indicated the mapping done by the previous owner before i took over the bike in november 2011.

Is the previous AFR better? Seeing that it is sticking close to the targetted AFR at speed between 155-160km/h. I often find myself running in that speed range on our freeways.

Current : Maroon 2011.
- Fender Extender - Radiator Guard - 19mm Nissin radial master - Nissin 4-pot caliper - SS brake lines - Osram Hyper 65W both low/high beam - LED 30w aux floodlights & 3w DRLs - Rear Hugger - Givi crash guards - Yoshimura TRC Carbon - Dynojet PC5 - Scottoiler - R1 shock with Ohlins 14.2 kg/mm spring - Imitation Givi Windshield - Rear Givi rack with 24ltr Givi top box - Bosch dual tones - Z800 stock mirrors.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 05:49 PM
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No, that was probably 4th gear (or 3rd ?) which redlines at 162 Km/hr (100 mph).

Original fuel mapping was good ONLY at about 9000 rpm and up, already past usable RPM and maximum HP range.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 06:23 PM
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I've seen the same bike be many HP off depending on time of the day or which dyno it was on.

Did they do a run before tuning it? That would be the real measurement.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Do a run as in running it on the road? Doubt it. The dyno was done at about 6pm, after a whole day taken to service the forks, balancing the throttle body and cleaning up the air box and filter, and i guess the mech is in hurry to end his shift.

A google search show some versys dyno to produce abt 60-70 max hp with just a slip-on.
This is my first dyno and i didnt know what to expect and look out for.

Current : Maroon 2011.
- Fender Extender - Radiator Guard - 19mm Nissin radial master - Nissin 4-pot caliper - SS brake lines - Osram Hyper 65W both low/high beam - LED 30w aux floodlights & 3w DRLs - Rear Hugger - Givi crash guards - Yoshimura TRC Carbon - Dynojet PC5 - Scottoiler - R1 shock with Ohlins 14.2 kg/mm spring - Imitation Givi Windshield - Rear Givi rack with 24ltr Givi top box - Bosch dual tones - Z800 stock mirrors.

Up next :
- Protaper SE ATV Low - PIAA Platinum low
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 11:31 PM
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I meant did they put it on the dyno before they started working on it. If they did you could tell the difference before/after they worked on it.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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Well they must be. That's how we get 2 lines, blue being before and red being after, no?

Current : Maroon 2011.
- Fender Extender - Radiator Guard - 19mm Nissin radial master - Nissin 4-pot caliper - SS brake lines - Osram Hyper 65W both low/high beam - LED 30w aux floodlights & 3w DRLs - Rear Hugger - Givi crash guards - Yoshimura TRC Carbon - Dynojet PC5 - Scottoiler - R1 shock with Ohlins 14.2 kg/mm spring - Imitation Givi Windshield - Rear Givi rack with 24ltr Givi top box - Bosch dual tones - Z800 stock mirrors.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewhtf View Post
Well they must be. That's how we get 2 lines, blue being before and red being after, no?
Not clear as you said the blue line was the mapping done by the previous owner. Is it the same dyno used for the previous owner? Did he change the mapping or just check the mapping. Those two are so close it could have just been different days with different air densities or changes in fuel. Different tires will give you different number too.

Different dyno's will give you different readings, and the same dyno may give you different numbers on different days. The only important numbers are the beginning and the end of your dyno tuning as they show an improvement or not.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 06:22 PM
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Hold on for a second, I think we have strayed.

Anyone else care to comment on the AFR and possible lean condition?

Andrew, I do not know if your bike is tuned the same as ours under EPA approval needed here in the states.
But for the most part, we prolly are lean in most of the curve, that is UNLESS the bikes needs to be quieter through a testing range. Then, the EFI/computer prolly will make an adjustment that allows the engine to be quieter vs. cleaner/leaner. It is a give-and-take kind of relationship.

Now, your engine MIGHT BE tuned to act differently depending on what specific laws Malaysia has for automobiles and motorbikes.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Noticed soot (carbon build-up) on the exhaust hole after a high spirited run last weekend, which usually does not occur prior to my dyno run. However i felt with this new map the bike does run noticeably more responsive. I really dont know whether this new mapping is for the better or not.

Regarding the laws... Umm... To be honest i am not sure our laws that governs emission control and engine modifications are as extensive and/or detailed as what you have in the US, but even if there are, most of the time such laws are ignored due to the lack of enforcement, and i'm sure our local tuner knows that and made adjustments as he deems fit.

Current : Maroon 2011.
- Fender Extender - Radiator Guard - 19mm Nissin radial master - Nissin 4-pot caliper - SS brake lines - Osram Hyper 65W both low/high beam - LED 30w aux floodlights & 3w DRLs - Rear Hugger - Givi crash guards - Yoshimura TRC Carbon - Dynojet PC5 - Scottoiler - R1 shock with Ohlins 14.2 kg/mm spring - Imitation Givi Windshield - Rear Givi rack with 24ltr Givi top box - Bosch dual tones - Z800 stock mirrors.

Up next :
- Protaper SE ATV Low - PIAA Platinum low
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewhtf View Post
The blue curve indicated the mapping done by the previous owner before i took over the bike in november 2011.
Without any Power Commander fuel corrections, air/fuel ratio reaches a lean peak at 2800 rpm (~14.5:1), falls progressively richer to a dip at 4100 rpm (~12.8:1), leans back up (~13.5:1 @ 4500-5000 rpm), then richens considerably to 5500 rpm (~12.2:1) and up to redline (~11.5:1).

Ideally, fuel corrections would yield close to 13.1~13.2:1 air/fuel ratio at WOT across entire rev range.

Original fuel mapping was better, but ONLY at about 9000 rpm and up, already past usable RPM and maximum HP range.

Last edited by invader; 06-20-2013 at 06:33 PM.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks invader. Do you think a second dyno run to get the A/F ratio to be adjusted as close to 13.2 across the whole rev range should be done?

What i know of the riding style of the previous owner is that he does alot of highway interstates for long distance and extended period of time. So it didnt came as surprise for me to see he had the fuel curve adjusted the way it was.

Current : Maroon 2011.
- Fender Extender - Radiator Guard - 19mm Nissin radial master - Nissin 4-pot caliper - SS brake lines - Osram Hyper 65W both low/high beam - LED 30w aux floodlights & 3w DRLs - Rear Hugger - Givi crash guards - Yoshimura TRC Carbon - Dynojet PC5 - Scottoiler - R1 shock with Ohlins 14.2 kg/mm spring - Imitation Givi Windshield - Rear Givi rack with 24ltr Givi top box - Bosch dual tones - Z800 stock mirrors.

Up next :
- Protaper SE ATV Low - PIAA Platinum low
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 03:27 AM
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Yes it should.

It's a very poor fuel curve, for any riding style.

Lots trial and error time to fine tune the fuel corrections at WOT, not even considering fuel adjustments for all throttle opening % ranges. Is there a better proven map you could start with?
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-23-2013, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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sadly, no.

Current : Maroon 2011.
- Fender Extender - Radiator Guard - 19mm Nissin radial master - Nissin 4-pot caliper - SS brake lines - Osram Hyper 65W both low/high beam - LED 30w aux floodlights & 3w DRLs - Rear Hugger - Givi crash guards - Yoshimura TRC Carbon - Dynojet PC5 - Scottoiler - R1 shock with Ohlins 14.2 kg/mm spring - Imitation Givi Windshield - Rear Givi rack with 24ltr Givi top box - Bosch dual tones - Z800 stock mirrors.

Up next :
- Protaper SE ATV Low - PIAA Platinum low
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