Reducing the Side to Side Movement in Sloppy/Wiggly Shifters - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Reducing the Side to Side Movement in Sloppy/Wiggly Shifters

In 2017, a few good tips by Motorboy about chain adjustments and sloppy shifters caught my attention.

Chain Adjustment

Shim washer

I took note of his comments figuring that I would eventually examine the shifter on my 2015 Versys 650 to see if it had similar side to side movements

While tinkering on the foot-pegs and also installing a centre stand, I decided to examine the side to side slop and wiggle on my bike’s shifter.



I was surprised to see that the side to side movement was the same as on Motorboy’s bike; i.e.: a clearance of about 20 thousands of an inch (.020 inch or 0.508 mm).

After removing the shifter mounting back plate, I tried to remove the bolt that holds the shifter foot-peg. It was definitely too soft and too tight. Although I used heat, the Allen bolt head simply destroyed itself.



I used a cut-off wheel on my angle grinder to cut off the head of the Allen bolt.



Look at the amount of red Loctite in the following pic! No wonder it wouldn’t move.

Note: I could have used more heat … but I didn’t want to damage the black paint on the shifter mounting back plate.



With lots of heat and a pair of vice grips, the bolt was removed from the foot-peg mount. The threads inside the foot-peg mount were then cleaned to permit inserting a new M10 bolt.



Items involved: shifter, shifter mounting back plate, foot-peg step holder. The threaded portion of the OEM bolt will be replaced with a new one.



Instead of looking for a 15 thousandth of an inch shim (.015 inch or .381 mm), I decided to use my benchtop belt/disc sander to slowly remove material from the inside tip of the peg holder.

Easy does it … I didn’t want to go too far. I was eventually able to remove close to .015 inch from the end of the peg holder.



While I had the shifter in hand, I decided to add a straight grease fitting (¼ inch x 28) towards the rear of the shifter assembly.



A Class 8.8 bolt (M10 – 1.25 x 25 mm) will replace the Allen bolt that was destroyed.
A small amount of blue Loctite and a lock washer (overkill … I know) will ensure that the foot peg does not easily loosen itself.



The inside of the shifter assembly was filled with Bel-Ray waterproof grease before final assembly.



Measuring the gap or side movement of the shifter assembly now shows approximately 5 thousands of an inch (.005 inch or .127 mm).

The modified shifter has been used for all of the 2019 riding season.

IMHO it now operates more smoothly than before.

I can now easily grease the shifter through the grease fitting.

If the shifter assembly ever needs to be removed, it will be much easier to loosen the newly installed M10 hex bolt than to struggle with that cheap soft OEM Allen bolt.
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I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019, 01:58 PM
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Rubber Mount Side Plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by quexpress View Post
In 2017, a few good tips by Motorboy about chain adjustments and sloppy shifters caught my attention.

Chain Adjustment

Shim washer

I took note of his comments figuring that I would eventually examine the shifter on my 2015 Versys 650 to see if it had similar side to side movements

While tinkering on the foot-pegs and also installing a centre stand, I decided to examine the side to side slop and wiggle on my bike’s shifter.



I was surprised to see that the side to side movement was the same as on Motorboy’s bike; i.e.: a clearance of about 20 thousands of an inch (.020 inch or 0.508 mm).

After removing the shifter mounting back plate, I tried to remove the bolt that holds the shifter foot-peg. It was definitely too soft and too tight. Although I used heat, the Allen bolt head simply destroyed itself.



I used a cut-off wheel on my angle grinder to cut off the head of the Allen bolt.



Look at the amount of red Loctite in the following pic! No wonder it wouldn’t move.

Note: I could have used more heat … but I didn’t want to damage the black paint on the shifter mounting back plate.



With lots of heat and a pair of vice grips, the bolt was removed from the foot-peg mount. The threads inside the foot-peg mount were then cleaned to permit inserting a new M10 bolt.



Items involved: shifter, shifter mounting back plate, foot-peg step holder. The threaded portion of the OEM bolt will be replaced with a new one.



Instead of looking for a 15 thousandth of an inch shim (.015 inch or .381 mm), I decided to use my benchtop belt/disc sander to slowly remove material from the inside tip of the peg holder.

Easy does it … I didn’t want to go too far. I was eventually able to remove close to .015 inch from the end of the peg holder.



While I had the shifter in hand, I decided to add a straight grease fitting (¼ inch x 28) towards the rear of the shifter assembly.



A Class 8.8 bolt (M10 – 1.25 x 25 mm) will replace the Allen bolt that was destroyed.
A small amount of blue Loctite and a lock washer (overkill … I know) will ensure that the foot peg does not easily loosen itself.



The inside of the shifter assembly was filled with Bel-Ray waterproof grease before final assembly.



Measuring the gap or side movement of the shifter assembly now shows approximately 5 thousands of an inch (.005 inch or .127 mm).

The modified shifter has been used for all of the 2019 riding season.

IMHO it now operates more smoothly than before.

I can now easily grease the shifter through the grease fitting.

If the shifter assembly ever needs to be removed, it will be much easier to loosen the newly installed M10 hex bolt than to struggle with that cheap soft OEM Allen bolt.
I need to ask, in 2018 I was riding heading for Creemore , I was halfway there when i discovered that I couldn't get past 3 gear anymore. I pulled over and proceeded to view why. Up-shifting requires the pushing forward of the actual linkage , using the foot-peg as a fulcrum, I discovered that if I pushed forward on my foot-peg while up-shifting, I could get to sixth gear, I had WD 40 with me , but after discovering this, I decided to abandon my ride and head home. FYI I have between size 12 and 13 boots, I have that shifter as far out as I can get it and that is with lowering pegs. I looked at that flexing back then and yes , got lucky , got all the red loctite off and also found the shifting linkage was mounted incorrectly.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019, 01:58 PM
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the red 'loctite'

I've removed those plates on my '15 (and I believe also on the '09 some years back), but didn't have as much of a problem as you did. I figure that the red stuff is NOT actually 'loctite', but some other stuff that just happens to be red.

GREAT write-up!

-
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I've removed those plates on my '15 (and I believe also on the '09 some years back), but didn't have as much of a problem as you did. I figure that the red stuff is NOT actually 'loctite', but some other stuff that just happens to be red.

GREAT write-up!

-
Motorboy also had trouble with that red "stuff". I therefore "presumed" that it "must" be red "loctite".


Thanks!

I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 06:05 AM
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I recommend you post separately the bit about the grease nob, it's a good mod.
The long story just gets in the way of that gem.

The slack is not only from the large space but I suspect from wear too.
I changed the seals and greased, but I like the large space as chain lube can get in there.
I don't think most riders know they have to grease that lever about every oil change.

I actually removed the peg on site, 6mm allen key does get there to crack it loose, but a hex bit and a ratchet wrench can save you much time.

I could live with my current lubing method (1" flatten straw epoxied to a lube tube will bring the lube deeper down), but a grease nob is a great idea.
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