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TPMS - a useful gadget to monitor tyre pressure

11K views 43 replies 17 participants last post by  _Big_Mac_ 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello Friends,

A year back I had installed a TPMS (tyre pressure monitoring system) on my motorcycle. I have found it quite useful - in real-time keep a watch over tyre pressure.

I prefer a dedicated console unit (connected to the tyre sensors). Few options have better locking mechanisms (or you find a hack!) if you feel theft of that unit.

There are few options wherein the tyre sensors would transmit data to a Bluetooth connected phone - but I find that inconvenient because of the dependency on phone.

I have made a detailed video here:


hope you like it.

regards,
Pranav
 
#2 ·
Thanks for the video. I had thought about those, especially because my Honda is hard to get the pressure gauge on, and of course you sometimes have to move the bike to get the tire in the right place to get at it. I had been looking at one unit where they had a great price for 4 sensors and the pressure was read on a key fob. Thought that would be handy to put 2 each on both my bikes to check tire pressures easily in the morning. Those did require you move the wheel a little to get them to read. Do yours need that?
 
#4 ·
Those did require you move the wheel a little to get them to read. Do yours need that?
I'm using the same TPMS as OP:
The sensors are activated by wheel motion, so the pressures will be updated only after you start riding. When inspecting the bike in the morning, the LCD will show you the last recorded yesterday's pressures.

Still, a very useful farkle, I've since installed it on both my bikes.
 
#3 ·
Wireless TPMS System

Thanks for the video!
This is quite a coincidence for me. I installed the same unit (from Aliexpress) yesterday.
I will test it on the road tomorrow. :)
 
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#6 ·
I saw a warning on one of the many TPMS pages on amazon that said not to use these with rubber valve stems. does anyone know what this means and why it is an issue? It seems like there is always air pressure in the valve stem regardless of whether or not the TPMS is attached?@!?!?!?!

These type of outer TPMS is not recommended for rubber stems. They will increase the pressure in the stems, so can cause the failure of the stems. You can use the inner tire type, such as Sykik SRTP400
 
#7 ·
I've heard people comment on the mass of the sensor on the rubber valve during high speeds. That said, I've heard of people using them without issue. Not sure on the facts.
 
#10 · (Edited)
90' Valve stems

Just looked closer, good idea however it won't work for my 90' valve stems.



 
#11 · (Edited)
Looks like it will fit fine, the screw-on sensor isn't that big. Here it is compared to an ordinary valve cap. You'd need around 4 millimeters of extra radius between the edge of your valve cap and the wheel, looks like you've got that.

I can also attest that there's no problem with air leaking, nor with using it on stock Versys valves. I've ridden in pouring rain, summer heat (not Indian heat, but still), etc. Haven't tried it in freezing temperatures yet, not sure if I will ;) Hasn't failed me yet.

The battery in the LCD unit lasts for around 2-3 months with my usage, I recharge it while riding via a micro-USB charger. The batteries in the valve sensors have yet to run out (according to the retailer, they should last roughly a season of riding).

I've begun trusting those sensors enough to not take an analog pressure gauge with me on my last 3000+ km Eurotrip.
 

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#19 ·
This TPMS pack comes with anti-theft nuts (like washers) and a small wrench. The anti-theft needs to first screwed over the valve, then screw the sensor; now the nut needs to be screwed-up tight (use that wrench) against the sensor. Its kinda low-level anti-theft, with bare hands it maybe difficult to remove the sensor. However, such wrench is easily available for one to take off the sensors and even remove the Console from handlebar.
Initially, I did fit as per books - i.e. put those anti-theft nuts. But when going for air filling, one needs to carry that wrench and loosen down the nut first, then unscrew the sensor! Its such a pain. Lateron I just removed those "anti-theft" nuts, and directly installed the sensors. Now its easy to get the air filled at the bunk, but the straight valve still remains an issue at most places because of the space/angle limitation. Maybe later I will get a "L" angled valve.

Another thing, the air pressure meter at many bunks is not very accurate. So once air is filled, I adjust the pressure by using the sensor - remove and re-check way. This TPMS is near to accurate!
 
#20 ·
Ah yes, I ditched the anti-theft washers after like the third time I had to undo them at a gas station. Not worth the trouble, not likely that someone would actually:
1) notice the sensors
2) figure out what they're for
3) decide that the $40-when-new farkle is worth stealing

And even if, I'd just be back to manual pressure checks. Not like I'd be grounded.
 
#23 ·
Hello Friends,

A year back I had installed a TPMS (tyre pressure monitoring system) on my motorcycle. I have found it quite useful - in real-time keep a watch over tyre pressure.

I prefer a dedicated console unit (connected to the tyre sensors). Few options have better locking mechanisms (or you find a hack!) if you feel theft of that unit.

There are few options wherein the tyre sensors would transmit data to a Bluetooth connected phone - but I find that inconvenient because of the dependency on phone.

I have made a detailed video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-arN1ARWapM

hope you like it.

regards,
Pranav
i could use this. the interesting thing for me is if you follow the link to purchase from youtube the product has thumbnails which depict my aprilia mana with no tail pipe. hmmm...
 
#24 ·
My post has a link to AlliExpress, I got it air mail in less than 2 weeks at a price better than anything I have seen in North America. I think something like $35 US including shipping.
 
#28 ·
See Post #10


Those are my aluminum 90' , taken before I added the TPMS , like I said earlier, I was concerned about the balance by adding the sending unit on the end of that 90' valve, let me assure you, I have over 4000 KM on those, the sending unit weighs next to nothing.I did use the locking nut that came with them, and put the wrench into my bike tools ( inside of of my Trekker cases)
My initial thought was I would have been better off with the original valve stems, however with the CNC stems, they have a lower profile and 80% easier to add air, the front disc brakes make adding air difficult period. The bonus as I said previously, I no longer add air, 95 times out of 100, I would lose air using my tire pressure gauge, and it is a right angle gauge , so many times once I got a valid reading I was 2 or 3 pounds low, that was done using a office chair, as getting down that low and close enough to make sure the gauge was going on square***********well I have trifocals and and astigmatism , so everything is rotated clockwise up close. As a side note, my astigmatism is one prime reason nobody wanted me bending conduit, or mounting electrical boxes, my glasses only corrected beyond 4 feet, so what looks vertical to me, isn't really vertical using a level. And that is why I ended up using my brain fixing inverters and working on drives, basically anything that uses a form of electricity.:surprise:
 
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#32 ·
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#33 ·
Anyone have any experience with the FOBO brand?
 
#34 ·
a Little Update

On March 24th I was prepping the bike for a ride. I had been working on it for over a week. The TPMS turns on automatically from just a slight vibration, so bump the seat or handlebars and on it comes. So March 24th I notice nothing, WTF it has been showing me I am low about 5 LBs front and rear. Turns out a charge is only good for about 7 months, yes hard to believe, but true. Next time I intend to charge it at six months whether it likes it or not>:). I had to do a partial reprogram , and naturally this thing has a mind of it's own. No worries getting the front but after many tries I was about to give up, then magically the rear started flashing and we were good to go:thanx::yeahsmile::yeahsmile::yeahsmile:
That was the very best $$ I ever spent, even better than the neat little voltmeter .
 
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#35 ·
When the central unit turns itself off due to low battery (or you turn it off by pressing and holding the arrow button for a couple of seconds), after turning it back on it will show "--" as the pressures for front and rear. This does not mean its lost programming, it just lost the last known snapshot, so it has nothing to show until the wheels start turning and sending updates.

So, when this happens, just take the bike for a ride and see if the problem doesn't fix itself.

Having said that, it's possible that yours DID lose programming, who knows what gremlins lurk in that Chinese software ;)
 
#40 ·
Never heard of that 10% rule but it sounds reasonable. It's much easier to experiment with a real-time TPMS :)

That rule doesn't seem to work well for my rear tire. My front pressure, when inflated to what Kawi says, goes up around 10% when hot, but my rear goes higher (15%). According to the rule, I should increase the rear pressure, but then it starts sliding a lot when I'm trail braking.

It might depend on tires (also running Road 5s) or the style of riding. But it's still just a guideline, you have to adjust it to your experience.
 
#42 ·
What pressure are you running? I also have road 5's
 
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