TPMS - a useful gadget to monitor tyre pressure - Page 2 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 03:56 PM
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I like to know my tire pressure as I'm riding but am much more concerned about knowing if one of my tires has a leak.

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I ALWAYS check my tires before EVERY ride - the same way truckers do - by "thumping" the tires w/ a mallet, and every few weeks I'll check them w/ a gauge and re-fill as necessary (which AIN'T often...!).
I should have said "knowing if one of my tires has developed a leak during a ride". I "used" to check my tires before each ride. I now simply glance at the TPMS.
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post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 04:40 PM
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Quick update

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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
Yup , getting lazy, last 2 times I let more air out of the tires just checking the pressure, I am pretty sure they were within a pound before I got screwing around, plus my bicycle pump has a quick / lever connect so it also lets some air out.Wasn't starting the compressor for 4 pounds of air. So ordered the https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3305...21072e0eMyGa4S
Note I quoted myself, as the link of the seller, first I got it faster than most packages from the USA. The price was awesome.
So the very first thing, this gauge installed I no longer bother checking pressure, just a light bump to the bike turns it on. I can see / read it in bright sunshine. The photo shows pressure higher than actual, within 100 feet traveled it reads actual pressure. I am truly amazed at how long it lasts on a charge, so far no idea, as I have over 15 hours on it and it shows full battery.FYI read post #11, two to 3 months on a charge
Thanks to all that posted, to me this is one really valuable extra, the location I picked is directly above the Speedo, usually I use my GPS for speed but very easy to glance down to the speedo and note the pressures. @quexpress

I had a aluminum small box lid, I cut it out and bolted it to the opening of the left windshield bracket. Just something lying around.


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Last edited by onewizard; 10-22-2019 at 09:26 PM.
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post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by pcpranav View Post
Hello Friends,

A year back I had installed a TPMS (tyre pressure monitoring system) on my motorcycle. I have found it quite useful - in real-time keep a watch over tyre pressure.

I prefer a dedicated console unit (connected to the tyre sensors). Few options have better locking mechanisms (or you find a hack!) if you feel theft of that unit.

There are few options wherein the tyre sensors would transmit data to a Bluetooth connected phone - but I find that inconvenient because of the dependency on phone.

I have made a detailed video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-arN1ARWapM

hope you like it.

regards,
Pranav
i could use this. the interesting thing for me is if you follow the link to purchase from youtube the product has thumbnails which depict my aprilia mana with no tail pipe. hmmm...

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0 miles- 8/15/19


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post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 09:23 PM
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i could use this. the interesting thing for me is if you follow the link to purchase from youtube the product has thumbnails which depict my aprilia mana with no tail pipe. hmmm...
My post has a link to AlliExpress, I got it air mail in less than 2 weeks at a price better than anything I have seen in North America. I think something like $35 US including shipping.
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post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Fly-Sig View Post
Has anyone used a system with the sensors inside the wheel the way they are on automobiles?

https://sykik.com/collections/wirele...essure-monitor




Jeff Bezos proposes it with 90░ valves (also on Ebay):


No, so far.
Interesting option, pros would be the anti-theft and built-in aspect, cons would be the need to remove the tire when a sensor's battery is low.
Just my opinion, I would rather go for pcpranav version, aiming at more versatility.


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post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 04:54 PM
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90' Valve stems

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Originally Posted by Elcodigo View Post




Jeff Bezos proposes it with 90░ valves (also on Ebay):


No, so far.
Interesting option, pros would be the anti-theft and built-in aspect, cons would be the need to remove the tire when a sensor's battery is low.
Just my opinion, I would rather go for pcpranav version, aiming at more versatility.
Just a FYI ( I have those 90' valves as in the above photo), I had my rear sensor stop working a month ago while riding on our 401 highway, it was late at night and many drivers were over 135 KM/HR, very hard to distinguish whether the lane to my right is free to move into with numerous headlights. I was at 140 KM/HR and my rear sensor went out for a good 10 minutes, when I returned to below 130 KM/HR , it started transmitting again. My concern about internal would be what if it won't pair or stops working, is it possible to remove that part externally something to ask the manufacturer.

I should also say, that is one of my favorite purchases of 2019 and would include it in a added safety device, unless you were to have a blow out, this gauge gives sufficient warning to make a safe stop. Twice I have hit something while riding at or above 100 KM/HR , both times I glanced several times at my TPMS , this is even visible in bright sunlight, believe it or not.

Last edited by onewizard; 11-29-2019 at 05:01 PM.
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post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 05:54 AM
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Onewizard,
are you using the stock rubber nipples or did you upgrade to the metal nipples?
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post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 11:27 AM
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See Post #10

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Onewizard,
are you using the stock rubber nipples or did you upgrade to the metal nipples?
Those are my aluminum 90' , taken before I added the TPMS , like I said earlier, I was concerned about the balance by adding the sending unit on the end of that 90' valve, let me assure you, I have over 4000 KM on those, the sending unit weighs next to nothing.I did use the locking nut that came with them, and put the wrench into my bike tools ( inside of of my Trekker cases)
My initial thought was I would have been better off with the original valve stems, however with the CNC stems, they have a lower profile and 80% easier to add air, the front disc brakes make adding air difficult period. The bonus as I said previously, I no longer add air, 95 times out of 100, I would lose air using my tire pressure gauge, and it is a right angle gauge , so many times once I got a valid reading I was 2 or 3 pounds low, that was done using a office chair, as getting down that low and close enough to make sure the gauge was going on square***********well I have trifocals and and astigmatism , so everything is rotated clockwise up close. As a side note, my astigmatism is one prime reason nobody wanted me bending conduit, or mounting electrical boxes, my glasses only corrected beyond 4 feet, so what looks vertical to me, isn't really vertical using a level. And that is why I ended up using my brain fixing inverters and working on drives, basically anything that uses a form of electricity.
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post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-26-2020, 11:12 AM
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I got the same one, have it on for over a month and so far no complaints
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post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-30-2020, 01:35 PM
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Those are my aluminum 90' , taken before I added the TPMS , like I said earlier, I was concerned about the balance by adding the sending unit on the end of that 90' valve, let me assure you, I have over 4000 KM on those, the sending unit weighs next to nothing.I did use the locking nut that came with them, and put the wrench into my bike tools ( inside of of my Trekker cases)

My initial thought was I would have been better off with the original valve stems, however with the CNC stems, they have a lower profile and 80% easier to add air, the front disc brakes make adding air difficult period. The bonus as I said previously, I no longer add air, 95 times out of 100, I would lose air using my tire pressure gauge, and it is a right angle gauge , so many times once I got a valid reading I was 2 or 3 pounds low, that was done using a office chair, as getting down that low and close enough to make sure the gauge was going on square***********well I have trifocals and and astigmatism , so everything is rotated clockwise up close. As a side note, my astigmatism is one prime reason nobody wanted me bending conduit, or mounting electrical boxes, my glasses only corrected beyond 4 feet, so what looks vertical to me, isn't really vertical using a level. And that is why I ended up using my brain fixing inverters and working on drives, basically anything that uses a form of electricity.


Whatĺs the diameter of the metal angles valve stem? I would like a set for my 2015 model, but quick eBay search showed multiple sizes and am not sure which one would fit the Versys


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post #31 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-31-2020, 01:45 PM
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Bought mine from China thru EBAY, and just measured my 'spare' one at 10.2mm//.402" at the threaded portion, so PROBABLY 10mm// .4". Hope this helps.

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post #32 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-31-2020, 06:43 PM
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post #33 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-23-2020, 07:39 PM
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Anyone have any experience with the FOBO brand?
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post #34 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-27-2020, 04:02 PM
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a Little Update

On March 24th I was prepping the bike for a ride. I had been working on it for over a week. The TPMS turns on automatically from just a slight vibration, so bump the seat or handlebars and on it comes. So March 24th I notice nothing, WTF it has been showing me I am low about 5 LBs front and rear. Turns out a charge is only good for about 7 months, yes hard to believe, but true. Next time I intend to charge it at six months whether it likes it or not. I had to do a partial reprogram , and naturally this thing has a mind of it's own. No worries getting the front but after many tries I was about to give up, then magically the rear started flashing and we were good to go
That was the very best $$ I ever spent, even better than the neat little voltmeter .
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post #35 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 02:15 AM
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When the central unit turns itself off due to low battery (or you turn it off by pressing and holding the arrow button for a couple of seconds), after turning it back on it will show "--" as the pressures for front and rear. This does not mean its lost programming, it just lost the last known snapshot, so it has nothing to show until the wheels start turning and sending updates.

So, when this happens, just take the bike for a ride and see if the problem doesn't fix itself.

Having said that, it's possible that yours DID lose programming, who knows what gremlins lurk in that Chinese software
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post #36 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 09:53 AM
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When the central unit turns itself off due to low battery (or you turn it off by pressing and holding the arrow button for a couple of seconds), after turning it back on it will show "--" as the pressures for front and rear. This does not mean its lost programming, it just lost the last known snapshot, so it has nothing to show until the wheels start turning and sending updates.

So, when this happens, just take the bike for a ride and see if the problem doesn't fix itself.

Having said that, it's possible that yours DID lose programming, who knows what gremlins lurk in that Chinese software
Mine functions exactly as you have mentioned. It does not lose its programming after having being recharged.
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post #37 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 09:58 AM
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Okay/ Learned Something NEW Again!!

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Mine functions exactly as you have mentioned. It does not lose its programming after having being recharged.
Guilty , on the positive side, those instructions suck. Yes I saw that tiny symbol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Big_Mac_ View Post
When the central unit turns itself off due to low battery (or you turn it off by pressing and holding the arrow button for a couple of seconds), after turning it back on it will show "--" as the pressures for front and rear. This does not mean its lost programming, it just lost the last known snapshot, so it has nothing to show until the wheels start turning and sending updates.

So, when this happens, just take the bike for a ride and see if the problem doesn't fix itself.

Having said that, it's possible that yours DID lose programming, who knows what gremlins lurk in that Chinese software
And that folks explains why my tire pressure limits were already set. So I have a question, my front ire says 13'C and my rear 23'C , same garage floor and it shows 41 PSI front and 46PSI rear, are these the last readings? My settings are 38 front and 42 rear. Pilot road 5's

And thank you both, obviously I don't know everything,that TPM is the greatest thing since sliced bread. I still find it hard to believe it can last that long on a charge, in my opinion, a extremely well engineered device. I can't think of one possible improvement that could be made. Well bluetooth alarm to a headset. But I wear earplugs and need hearing aids, maybe a app that activates your deaf flashing light module
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Last edited by onewizard; 03-29-2020 at 10:03 AM.
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post #38 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 12:02 PM
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. So I have a question, my front ire says 13'C and my rear 23'C , same garage floor and it shows 41 PSI front and 46PSI rear, are these the last readings?
Yep, I'm getting the same thing in the mornings. Once you start rolling, after a couple hundred meters you should see current values.

The last snapshot memory can be confusing, but it makes sense, technically speaking. If the central unit were to send a "I woke up, please send current readings" to the wheel sensors, the wheel sensors would need to be capable of receiving radio signals. It's probably cheaper to make them so they just broadcast every minute after they've sensed movement, transmit-only and non-interactive. Also makes them smaller and the battery lasts longer, since it doesn't need to be on alert for incoming signals.

The central unit probably doesn't discern between being put to sleep for a minute (filling up at a gas station, the last snapshot is probably still accurate) or an entire night (tires have cooled down, readings inaccurate), so they decided it would always shows the last snapshot if they have one. Simple and works fine in most cases. In order for it to know the difference and show "--" in the morning, they'd need to put a clock in there and a bunch of extra code. More expensive, more complicated, for little gain.

It does know when it's been turned off completely, because its snapshot memory is wiped, so then it shows "--".

At least that's how I think it works, as a software engineer
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post #39 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 02:12 PM
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Thumbs up How to ensure your tires are properly inflated

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So I have a question, my front ire says 13'C and my rear 23'C , same garage floor and it shows 41 PSI front and 46PSI rear, are these the last readings? My settings are 38 front and 42 rear. Pilot road 5's
On my previous bike (Honda Valkyrie ... 6 cyl) the pressures were 40 front and 42 rear.
For my Versys 650, the settings are 34 lbs front and 38 lbs rear .... Dunlop Roadsmart 3.

I know that many people like higher pressures than that. That's OK.

I, on the other hand, have been a believer in the "10% rule" for quite a few years. There are many descriptions on the net ... this is an abbreviated one.
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Last edited by quexpress; 03-29-2020 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Typo: 36 should have read 34 lbs
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post #40 of 44 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 02:47 AM
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Never heard of that 10% rule but it sounds reasonable. It's much easier to experiment with a real-time TPMS

That rule doesn't seem to work well for my rear tire. My front pressure, when inflated to what Kawi says, goes up around 10% when hot, but my rear goes higher (15%). According to the rule, I should increase the rear pressure, but then it starts sliding a lot when I'm trail braking.

It might depend on tires (also running Road 5s) or the style of riding. But it's still just a guideline, you have to adjust it to your experience.

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