Onewizard must get a kick out of following along with all us backyard electricians!Im with him,you need a dual power switch and use the low setting for running lights.Minimal power draw,daytime running lights.These LEDs last a long time especially at low setting,no heat.I wired mine in to the aux.circuit with the wires provided stock for the OEM aux. lights on the bike.Mine are 18 watt,3600 Lumen per side.On full will blind oncoming drivers and give LED a bad name.I save the full power setting as a treat for bad drivers and night driving on totally dark roads.Or setting up my camping gear in the dark with the bike off.I made my own dual power switch with a $1 resistor.I also use LED turn signals and introduced a low level current to the fronts via a resistor so they are amber running lights,ala Honda.Lights are there,use them.Light up the face of your bike,might keep you from getting hit!And Ive grown to love the simplicity of the one headlight low beam system,thats Kawi.Got to get in there and crank the adjustment settings.
Actually I used a single pole single throw waterproof switch that came with the Denali lights, changed the pin configuration, I don't like throwing away perfectly good parts and buying a 2pdt, maintained waterproof switch. I had the DENALI 2.0 DataDim Dual Intensity Controller, plug and play, I reconfigured the pins so low beam is connected to the switched power and high beam is the included illuminated switch.
illuminated switch is the Denali high beam "on" , located beside the Oxford controller, very easy to find in the dark to turn off, directly above my OEM high beam. Frequently I am running the Denali on high at night in all traffic, as they are both set as spots, focused on the center right and far right ( ditch) to give advanced warning of Moose or Deer. Since they are mounted slightly lower than the headlight, they act also as fog lights. I have never had anyone flash their lights on approach at night with the Denali , I struggled to justify the expense $$$$$, I am going to say, well worth it!! I have roughly 200 hours on them now.
One other thing, in this day of electronics and China, a resistor is now a expensive and crude way of going, you can buy a PWM ( pulse width modulated )switch for $3 to $5
a adjustable 3 wire electronic flasher for $3 from China. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CF14-3-Pin-...0AAOSwA1pavL9p
illuminated switch is the Denali high beam "on" , located beside the Oxford controller