Sproket Change Question - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Sproket Change Question

Hey everyone! The V was my first street bike about a year and a half ago, and ever since about a month in I felt like 1st gear was a bit short, but 2nd was/is a bit long. I'm planning on getting a 43 or 44 rear sprocket soon to remedy the issue. My question: do I have to change out the chain for a different size when changing the tooth number in the rear, or can I simply pull the rear wheel off and stick it on? I've changed sprockets before, but always stuck with stock settings on my ATV's and dirty bikes. I'm mainly looking to free up the motor a bit. The speeds I tend to travel at keep the revs a bit high for my taste, as a number of other members have mentioned.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 10:09 PM
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No need to replace or shorten the chain... Go with a 44T (+4.545%) which you should find to be just perfect overall. The 43T (+6.977%) is a bit overkill.

Last edited by invader; 02-03-2012 at 10:18 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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No need to replace or shorten the chain... Go with a 44T (+4.545%) which you should find to be just perfect overall. The 43T (+6.977%) is a bit overkill.
That's what I was leaning toward. I think I'll take your advice and do just that. Most people seem to like the 44T on here. Thanks for the info!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 10:31 PM
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Actually, how many miles are on your original chain and counteshaft sprocket? Does the chain tension vary as you rotate rear wheel?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot one more thing: would getting a light aluminum Renthal sprocket be worth the loss in durability/longevity? I know they cost a good bit more than say a Vortex, but money isn't really a concern; I work for a motorcycle parts dealer and we can get most anything wholesale.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Actually, how many miles are on your original chain and counteshaft sprocket? Does the chain tension vary as you rotate rear wheel?
Only about 3.5k. They should still be good right? I'm dreading replacing that front sprocket based upon how ridiculously tight everyone says it is. I may just let the shop do that one when the time comes.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 10:56 PM
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It should be ok at only 3.5K... Does your chain tension vary at all as you rotate rear wheel?
Front sprocket is really no big deal if you're good with tools. I just went ahead and loosened that front sprocket in a snap without making a big fuss about it. The sprocket lock trick helps a lot. Some simply opted for a strong enough impact wrench.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Toxigenegoober View Post
Only about 3.5k. They should still be good right? I'm dreading replacing that front sprocket based upon how ridiculously tight everyone says it is. I may just let the shop do that one when the time comes.
I don't know where you are located, but if you are in the Dallas area, drop by my place and well put that sucker up on the lift, put the impact wrench on that stubborn nut and be done with it.

Lot's of experience with that.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 03:34 PM
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My experience with changing gear ratios is don't do it unless you have some pretty unique requirements like only driving on the 4 lane or never driving at highway speeds. It is hard to improve on what the engineers came up with after they matched the final drive ratio with the individual gear ratios and the engine's power and torque. A longer final drive ratio may overload the engine in 6th and make 6th gear unusable for highway cruising. A lower ratio will mean more shifting and more buzz at highway speeds as well as increased engine wear and fuel usage.

Last edited by Sprocket; 02-04-2012 at 03:41 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know where you are located, but if you are in the Dallas area, drop by my place and well put that sucker up on the lift, put the impact wrench on that stubborn nut and be done with it.

Lot's of experience with that.
Man, I wish I lived closer. I would take you up on that offer. I live in Baton Rouge, LA; it's a good 800+ miles away.

I ended up getting a Sunstar Alloy 44T. They didn't have steel in any of the brands we can get in that tooth number. If it wears quick I'll just get another. It's going to be almost a third of the retail price anyway. I know it will change the characteristics of the bike, but I think it will overall be an improvement. I don't mind feathering the clutch off of stop more if it means I can reach the other side of the intersection before having to shift. I feel like I'm driving a semi tractor now shifting all the time. The engine has more than enough torque to handle dropping only a couple of teeth and retain the punch we all love. It won't be enough additional clutching to warrant worrying about wearing it out significantly faster. So, I just can't wait now for it to come in. Should be in the store Wednesday or Thursday. I'll update what I think when I get some time to pull the rear wheel off.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 05:57 AM
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Here is a link to a how-to rear sprocket change thread I did a while back. Maybe this will help.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=15684

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a link to a how-to rear sprocket change thread I did a while back. Maybe this will help.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=15684
Thanks for the step by step! I'm not very experienced working on bikes and love thorough explanations when attempting something new. The color of the bike and the number of teeth are even the same as mine. It's like you showed me on my own bike!
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-06-2012, 10:54 AM
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A longer final drive ratio may overload the engine in 6th and make 6th gear unusable for highway cruising.
You must be a big feller!

Y'all can always just shift down to fifth if you're lacking the torques, you know.

The way I look at is this. You've got a motor with a long, flat torque curve and you've got a close-ratio transmission. . . . What's wrong with this picture?

But each to his own, I guess. . . .

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