farkel update and questions for help... - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2011, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation farkel update and questions for help...

HI all here are some recent pics of the status of her journey getting ready for that ride down to Panama and Colombia, albeit from Costa Rica...

now have my Givi rack on (top only), ready to decide on E50, 52 or 55.
KTM guards, Evo rad guard, flat foot, new vibration free cheap mirrors and extenders, CF rear hugger, 2 Bros slip on Vale exhaust...

left to install are:

44T rear sprocket, HID kit for low beam (but now i am thinking about a KT kit with angel eyes using a Bi Xenon projector (like my audi quattro), grip puppies, throttle rocker, LED turn signals or LED bulbs for existing, soft side bags, and lastly SS brake lines F/R and new pads got of this forum.

Dilema is the seat want Gel but don't want to spend a fortune on Kawa gel seat as its 65% more here then US, so thinking to look for shop her to redo existing with new cover and gel inserts better foam.

First question is the exhaust is very loud and kind of annoying at low rpms (idle to 3K, i see many other taking about baffles but mine did not come with any got it at pipe city. it is just a straight thru unit and quit loud. ideas??

Next help on deciding about LED new turn signals from EBAY or D2 Moto or just SMD bulbs, and confirm anyone that tried either. seems all the aftermarket ones are smaller then stock.

Seems the group is spilt on conversion to HID using bulbs only and existing housing. some like other no? why? due to old stye High beam? I was thinking to use the large KT kit with 3" projector bi xenon in the low beam position and using an LED multi seg bulb in High location as second running light. thoughts?

thanks to every one here for the great input and ideas to improve a great moto.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2011, 08:01 PM
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Don't forget the kitchen sink


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2011, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Don't forget the kitchen sink
ah i see your from Iowa, not much to do there i guess that explains your comment.

thanks
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2011, 09:42 PM
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Rick,

I have a Two Brothers slip-on also and, yes, it's noisy. I notice that yours has the gold insert - that's supposed to be the clever device that reduces noise somewhat. I guess the emphasis is on "somewhat." I haven't removed the ring but I'd hate to think what it sounds like without it.

I think you'll find that Grip Puppies are the best $10 or so you'll ever spend. Regarding sprockets, I finally went with a SunStar steel 43 tooth and am pleased that I did. It suits my riding style perfectly and (I guess I can be fussy) the GPS and speedometer now register exactly the same. That makes me happy.

I'd forget the kitchen sink. Must be more popular in Iowa, eh?

Very nice looking bike (and Audi and home as well). Enjoy your trip and ride safely.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2011, 10:16 PM
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ah i see your from Iowa, not much to do there i guess that explains your comment.

thanks
Was than an insult? I was kidding dude, I have just about everything you can bolt on a V on my bike


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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2011, 10:45 PM
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If you do LED turn signals, you will probably need to add an in-line resistor because there won't be enough load on the flasher relay to make them blink. A potentiometer is an easy way to find what size you need (put it in, turn on blinker, turn knob until they blink at the right rate, measure resistance with a digital multi-meter), then you can get a fixed resistance ceramic resistor and solder it in. Both components are less than a dollar each at any electronics store (Radioshack)


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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 01:26 AM
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An in-line resistor would offset any energy saving gains when using a LED, according to one of my friend who does this kind of electrical thinggies. It's best to switch to a LED flash relay.

For sound attenuation, you could try something like the akrapovic dB killer. It's an insert which goes into the tail pipe but on the other end, there is a circular plate, pretty much the size of the insert pipe diameter, and is welded to the insert pipe via 4 narrow 'legs'. The legs are about an inch long, so the rectangular 'holes' are about an inch long. The exhaust gasses are forced to go around the plate, thus breaking down some of the noisy sound waves.

My friend who got a Jardine system, modified its dB killer to that of the Akrapovic method and manage to achieved some sound attenuation. He went one step further by drilling holes into the circular plate to increase the flow.

I don't have a kitchen sink farkle but got a square mesh plastic strainer as the radiator guard. That's the closest to the Iowa kitchen sink usage I can think off.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 11:25 AM
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An in-line resistor would offset any energy saving gains when using a LED, according to one of my friend who does this kind of electrical thinggies. It's best to switch to a LED flash relay.
Changing to LED blinker lights won't save you that much energy. Unless you drive with them on all the time.


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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Motopsycho View Post
Changing to LED blinker lights won't save you that much energy. Unless you drive with them on all the time.
wasn't changing to LED blinkers and running lights to save energy but to hopefully not lose a light while on extended trip. even if one LED goes out the blinkers have like 11 more...plus they seem much brighter to me...safety issue too....

thanks for the comments from all, any thoughts on the seat?
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 09:39 PM
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I find the existing seats to be ok, coming from a Ninja 250R for my previous bike.

Present Ride: Yamaha Super Tenere 2012
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2011 to 2015 2011 Versys Spark BlackKawasaki Ninja 2010 to 2011 250R 2008 Plasma Blue
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 09:42 PM
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Changing to LED blinker lights won't save you that much energy. Unless you drive with them on all the time.
Yes, agreed. Most of the bikers I know tend to make their signal lamps to be the running lights. My assumptions were wrong and they look pretty nice actually.

I'm kind of thinking of adding additional running lights, LED type.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 11:18 PM
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Rickescazu, Great to have a fun rides always .

44T will make your V freer at speeds.

Yes, the Kawi gel seat is a bomb. Gel inserts would be a cheaper option.

I think the newer V have put the turn signals at a height which better to be seen. Making them running light/turn signal gives some nice aura at night.

Also prefer additional lights than putting in a HID. It makes one's bike distinctive.

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Ride safe,
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 11:33 PM
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thanks for the comments from all, any thoughts on the seat?
http://www.beadrider.com/

Cheap option, I love it. Will fit on your other bikes too if you have any other ones. I got one that fits my RD400 and V


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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, agreed. Most of the bikers I know tend to make their signal lamps to be the running lights. My assumptions were wrong and they look pretty nice actually.

I'm kind of thinking of adding additional running lights, LED type.
Interesting idea, so they make the turn signals light all the time, but do they still flash for turns? i can put in LED lamps, amber but not sure how to rewire so that works, as the flasher seems to work the opposite, would need to interrupt the circuit when turning otherwise on. anyone done this know how??

Problem so far with the aftermarket LED signals is all are 1-2.5 inches shorter and will not protrude out from the front cowling mounting points to see them up front. in back no problem.

thanks
rick
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 02:28 AM
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The way I understand how the running cum signal lights work is that when you need to use the indicator, the running lights turn off and the flashing takes place. The moment you shut down the indicator, the running lights come on again.

I do not know the wiring details but probably a relay is used. The shop wanted USD40 from me to convert to running lights but I can get it cheaper like USD20 somewhere else.

For the short LED indicator lamps, you may need to use a spacer, or bend a sheet metal member into a c-shape profile, drill 2 holes for the bolts on the shorter members. May not look that great unless you can find some nice material to cover them up.

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