Thanks to Photobucket, the links to the pictures in my original post have gone bye-bye. Finally found another posting site so I can now restore the pics. Unfortunately, I can’t edit my original post so thought I'd just redo it:
Did a little farkling over the weekend on my new 650LT with the goal of adding a switched, 6 slot fuse block to supply power to any electrical goodies I wanted to hook up. Initially I needed one of the switched circuits for my heated clothing.
Here are the main parts I needed to do the job (this picture actually shows the parts I used on my long gone, Honda ST1300 but they are the same as the parts I used on the Versys). I got the parts from Radio Shack, an Auto Parts Store, and Home Depot, so no need to order anything online:
Because there is not much available space under the seat, I wound up having to remove the OEM tool kit and use the space it occupys for the fuse block and ground buss. Everything is velcroed in place. The relay occupies a small open space behind the tool kit compartment. The picture below shows everything installed and hooked up. Sorry that some of it is hard to see.
The green wire running from the battery's negative terminal goes to the 8 terminal ground strip. All of the terminals on the strip are joined by a metal jumper strip. All ground wires will originate from these terminals. Note that the ground wires are all solid green, a convention used by Honda. Much easier to identify than Kawasaki's ground wire color code.
You'll note that in addition to the main negative feed from the battery, there are two additional wires connected to the ground strip. One of these wires goes to the relay. The other is the negative lead for the heated clothing socket.
The yellow wire in the picture was used to connect the battery's positive terminal to the input terminal of the general purpose relay. This wire has it's own, inline fuse (used a 15 amp fuse). I used another yellow wire to conect the 12v output of the relay to the fuse block.
And last but not least, I tapped into the license plate light positive lead to supply triggering voltage to the relay. Note that I used a Posi-tap to connect to the wire. These things are the cats meow... easy and simple to use and will not damage the individual strands that make up the wire like most tap connects do.
For those who have never used a general pupose relay, here is information on how to hook them up:
The picture below shows the location of the heated clothing outlet. It turned out to be the perfect place for this as I tested the heated clothing out yesterday. The pigtail in the picture is hooked directly to the battery. It is used for a trickle charger.
My next project is to install a round Datel Voltmeter so that I can keep track of the electrons while using my heated gear. It will be hooked to one of the circuits on my newly added fuse panel. I've used the rectangular Datel VM on every bike I've owned over the past 15 years but for the life of me I could not figure out a way to mount it. The Datels are a bit on the pricey side but they are rugged, waterproof and reliable. I've never had one go bad.
I now have a Datel DMS-20PC-1
mounted and up and running. I made a shelf for it out of a small piece of L-shaped aluminium and attached it to my Motowerek GPS Mount
. It works great and is easily within my line of sight. It's showing 14.3 volts in this picture. Now if I could just figure out how to mount my V-1 radar detector!: