Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: North Central WV
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Ahhh there's a lot of weird info in this thread.
I have those grips. You do not need new grips. Those grips are fine. You do not need a relay, there are plenty of ignition-hot wires that you can tap into without causing any problems.
The wire you found is an ignition-hot wire, not the ignition wire. Meaning, it's a circuit that's only energized when the ignition is powered, but it isn't supplying ample current to energize your grips. I don't personally like to add anything to the actual ignition wire, like ever, but there's plenty of places to tap.
Since those grips give you so much line to work with, here is what I did:
Ground line, black wire, goes to the ground bolt under the seat towards the back. You'll see it has several wires terminating on it. For ignition hot, find your fuse block. It's got a hot-bus under it that energizes the block and then each circuit has its own fuse that separates it from the bus and powers the given circuit. You just need to find which side is "in" and which side is "out." On my bike, which is a 13, I BELIEVE but would not swear that the interior side (battery side) is the "out" and the anterior side (fairing side) is "in". The horn circuit has something like a 15A fuse on it. Tap into the "out" side, meaning the "fuse protected side", and you'll have ignition-hot, 15A service to power your hand grips. You'll never have to worry about nuking the battery by forgetting to turn them off, etc.
Alternatively, I can find you my other post about how to tap into the front relay connector and get switched (and constant-on) juice WITHOUT needing a relay.