Auto switch for driving lights - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Auto switch for driving lights

Been looking for a good way to switch my driving lights on...think i found it....it's called the AUTOSWITCH....a simple relay, taps into your turn signal cancel button wire.. you just tap and hold the button down and the driving lights come on....about $25.00 and no need to put an extra switch on the bars...just passing this on
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 10:39 AM
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I'm going to get one to switch my garage door opener. Do you have a link?

Graham

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 11:10 AM
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Also works very good for the garage door opener. Just wired into the high beam wire, 2 taps on the little high beam trigger, up goes the door.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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just google search AUTOSWITCH
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsunamichop007 View Post
Been looking for a good way to switch my driving lights on...think i found it....it's called the AUTOSWITCH....a simple relay, taps into your turn signal cancel button wire.. you just tap and hold the button down and the driving lights come on....about $25.00 and no need to put an extra switch on the bars...just passing this on

Just a thought . But you might want to look very closely at some specs on the amount of power those lightsdraw , versus the amount of power the turn signal switch is designed to carry . I would think it could end up burning your turn signal switch out .
I know for a fact that some after market horns like the Stebel air horn will burn out your stock horn button very quickly if the relay is not installed .

I would look at installing a relay to protect your switch . Quit frankly , and IMHO , I avoid switches having more than one function like the plague . You have tons of room under the seat to mount a buss box battery dirct which wuold allow you to tie in a couple of different add-ons .
That way , if a fuse blows and or a switch burns up , you only loose one function on the bike . Not several .

Here is a link for a switch for just that . I have in one of my bikes now and have had it in the past . Good quality , long lasting and will carry tons of amps . Meant for lights , but workd on lots of accessories well .

http://www.cyclenutz.com/products/el...ht_switch.html

PO-SLOKE

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 10:45 AM
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It looks to me like the Autoswitch is a relay. It just uses the high-beam line to trigger the relay to turn on your lights. If this is not the case, then I hope someone more knowledgeable than me (since I have never installed one of these switches, much less driving lights) will correct this statement. Nevertheless, this should not impact using the Autoswitch with your garage door opener (which how I intend to use it).
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooligan View Post
I'm going to get one to switch my garage door opener. Do you have a link?
Linkipoo to CycleGadgets.com

It looks like there are 3 universal models of the Autoswitch. All do the same thing, but I guess there is a choice as to which circuit you want to use and what operator action you want to perform to actuate the switch.

I think it breaks down like this:

AS-5P
  • Cost = $22.95
  • Circuit = High beam
  • Operator Action = Press & hold


AS-5P2
  • Cost = $22.95
  • Circuit = High beam
  • Operator Action = Double Press

AS-5PG2
  • Cost = $29.95
  • Circuit = Any 12V Circuit (high beam, break light, etc.)
  • Operator Action = Double Press

Chris in Oneonta, NY
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 02:09 PM
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Thanks! It will be nice to just flash the hi beams and have the door open!

Graham

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Hooligan View Post
Thanks! It will be nice to just flash the hi beams and have the door open!
Now I can imagine a use for my "Pass" switch on the left side. Otherwise such flashing around here seems to be more a provocation than anything else.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 06:09 PM
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A while back I was researching an alternative to the Autoswitch. I came across a site where a guy detailed how to just wire your garage door opener into an existing circuit on the bike. It definitely requires a bit more mod work than the the Autoswitch, but it's actually not that bad.

After reading this thread earlier today, I decided to find that site again and give it a shot. I don't have the finished product installed on the bike yet, but I'm far enough along to see that it's going to work just as well as the Autoswitch and it's basically free (assuming you already have some spare wire and a soldering gun).

Here is a link to the writeup that I did in the Mods-Perf subforum.

Chris in Oneonta, NY
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2008, 06:37 PM
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Cool on the relay being a part of it install . I looked back at the original post , then saw he mentioned a relay . Dummy me !!!
I am going to wait till my Hepco Becker crash bars come in and put my running lights on them . Down nice and low . I jsut need to find a decent buss box for under the seat .
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 01:50 AM
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Am I the only one happy with having my driving lights turn on when my low beams come on? It is easily done for the cost of a standard Bosch relay. You could also use the high beams for a trigger if you wanted them to come on with your high beams only.


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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 06:15 AM
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08 Versys,

That's exactly the way I would do it for driving lights. Actually, once I get my crash bars, I will be following your footsteps exactly.

I just realized that I am guilty of participating in a threadjack with my post above. I forgot that the original point of this thread was specifically for a driving light application. My post was geared toward using a similar approach but for a garage door application.

Sorry for the bad form.

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We now return to you to the original thread already in progress
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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my plan is to run a pair of 55 watt driving lights, is there any concern with the power draw, currently i'm not using any other power driven accessories...
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 09:39 AM
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OK , As I understand it , ( bearing in mind I am no Guru ) the Versys has a 336 watts output . Which works out to be 14volts x 24 amps . Which would equal the such said 336 watts . Now , keeping in mind that max output is only given at a certain rpm ( i think it is somwhere around 5500rpm on the V ) .
Your headlights are both 55 watts and when the high beam is on both 55 watt bulbs are running . SO . With your two 55 watt accessory bulbs , and if they are on when the high beams are on , you are looking at quite a bit of draw . 220 watts roughly . Thats not counting the rest of your electrical components that are drawning power .
I would say that with all that on , you are reaching peak . If you had a Stebel air horn , and were running all that and nailed down on the air horn , it seems to me like it could really overload things . The Stebel air horn claims to draw 20 amps . SO , I would be looking at calculating your total amp draw as well . Then truly decide .
I am one to just add conspicuous lights to be seen and hope they help me see , rather than try to light up the world .

OH YEAH . A WORD OF CAUTION !!! If you have never try to see with LED lights when there is fog , I should warn you . LED lights reflect back in your face to the point of ABSOLUTE BLINDNESS , even the yellow ones . Those things might use very little power , but nothing will blind you in fog like LED . Tnugsten is the best to cut through fog with .
I know , I know , noone rides in the fog . Not on purpose anyway . LED in the rear lights is fine , but any LED on front is horribly dangerous .

Last edited by PO-SLOKE; 08-18-2008 at 09:41 AM.
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