changing a tire w/ "zip-ties" - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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changing a tire w/ "zip-ties"

Yesterday I had to remove a leaking fork (AGAIN!) to get the dealer to change the fork-seal (AGAIN!).

First time they did it, the tech put in too much oil which I discovered riding a desert dirt road - the forks were VERY resistant to bumps, ALMOST solid...!

By the time I got home the fork was leaking again, so I took it back to have the CORRECT level of oil checked, bringing MY SERVICE MANUAL, some of the same ATF, and a caliper to measure the levels. Got it all done, re-installed the fork which NOW was 'plush' again, but soon was leaking oil. Obviously the seal got "hydraulicked" when I hit the bumps w/ TOO much oil in it! I phoned them, they admitted their fault and that they would change the seal again when I brought the fork in, which I told them would be soon, as I wanted to change-out the TKC80 knobbie.

I've seen articles talking about using "zip-ties" around the tire, making it easier to install, so I figured I would "give it a shot", buying a pack of 100 11" zip-ties at Harbor-Freight a week ago for $2. A member here mentioned that he'd found that probably 50% would NOT lock (MY experience too, a few years back), but I thought I'd give it a try. (And ALL 34 ties worked perfectly, so H-F must have found a better supplier!)

The rotors were getting near the 'wear-limit', so I bought two more rotors thru Ebay, and planned to change them at the same time, thus "killing three birds" at one time.

The wheel (minus the old rotors) and the Tourance 130/80 I'd removed in October '14 w/ 18,xxx miles on it were set in the sun. After the TKC80 was nice and warm, I 'broke' the bead then sprayed some WD40 along the two beads, then got out the tire-spoons (incidentally I HAVE used WD40 as a tire lube before!). Could NOT believe how quickly and easily that TKC came off!

I wiped down the rim, inside and out, then attached 17 pairs of zip-ties around the Tourance, cinched them up so the two beads were very close, and lubed the beads w/ tire lube.



I positioned it on the rim, put two spoons in, twisted, then another spoon. Twisted IT - the tire SLIPPED RIGHT on!!! W/out a doubt - THAT was the EASIEST tire install ever for me, particularly as I've found the Tourances to be VERY hard to mount.

I cut, then removed the zip-ties, aired it up to 'set' the bead, refilled it w/ 'dyna-beads" and filled it to 36psi - DONE in minutes!

I had already 'chased' the threads where the rotor bolts go (LOTS of some sort of red thread-locker from the factory), then run the rotor-bolts thru a die to clean them, so installing the new rotors (blue Loctite) and torquing them was a ten minute job.





Now, once I get the fork repaired later today I can re-install it and the wheel tomorrow!

BTW - here's what a TKC80 w/ 8,467 miles on it (AZ miles...) looks like...!



-
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Last edited by fasteddiecopeman; 06-25-2018 at 01:44 PM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 11:49 AM
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Nice job Eddie. I saw a video someone changing a tyre using zip ties, they made it look easy as.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 11:57 AM
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I use that same method and it makes changes very easy. I use about 8 24" zip ties. more expensive but stronger than the smaller stuff, important with a stiff casing
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 12:00 PM
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i like the idea of it on tubed tires to prevent tube pinch. didn't have any luck with it when I did the shinko 705's maybe I was doing it wrong. but i'm used to using spoons now and installing a tire is only a few minutes. the removal is usually the hard part for me, but i'm getting better.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 12:30 PM
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I have always found getting the old tire off is a bit of struggle but getting the new tire on is comparatively easy. The important thing for me is a good bead breaker. May try the wire tie method next time though. Thanks for posting.

Single grade fork oil at a motorcycle dealer is basically the same price as multigrade ATF. I mention this because the viscosity of ATF is unknown and in most cases considerably thicker by comparison than the default 10W fork oil. You can more precisely control suspension setup by using a specific viscosity of fork oil, i.e. 5W, 10W, 15W, etc..

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 12:34 PM
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good job my room mate works for HF the older zipties sucked due to the supplier NEVER replacing the casting molds, so 99% defects = **** zipties. and ya the zip tie way always worked great for me, i use to leave zipties on my replacement tires (loose not tightened up) when i use to do alot of offroad riding

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Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 12:59 PM
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Sad to say I have never through the years heard of the Zip Tie Method. After seeing it in Eddies Pics, it makes perfect sense to me. I may try it next time, I always have zip ties laying around!
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 02:17 PM
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I've done it with cargo straps....
(this is just a demo)



TKCs on my GS I can mount with bare hands using the straps, but a Karoo 3 was a biotch. so as they say.... ymmv



and Eddie.... you seem to be getting a bit better miles out of your front tire than I get. I see the blocks gettin out of square. that happens way before you lose enough rubber to be a danger.... they just get noisy and more vibes. I also see a bead breaker in your pic... the double clamp thing. I had one & hated it because trying to pinch both sides at the same time would usually result in getting neither bead to break.

when traveling with a partner, we use the sidestand to break a bead. when I travel alone I carry a c-clamp and I always have my aluminum plate (pad for the sidestand on soft ground and occasional base for my stove).




the plate helps put all the clamp force on the bead. break one at a time. it always wins

if I'm answering your question I assume the basic points have been addressed, such as: did you do a compression test? is it still on fire?

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronheater70 View Post
Sad to say I have never through the years heard of the Zip Tie Method. After seeing it in Eddies Pics, it makes perfect sense to me. I may try it next time, I always have zip ties laying around!
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 09:04 PM
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Can't help it. First ziptie pic made me think of Gulliver's travels...
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 09:51 AM
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Ed, why don't you replace the fork seals yourself? you seem to have the mechanical/intellectual ability. Hearing your story I would feel more comfortable letting you work on my bike than the dealer described.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Markie Motard View Post
Ed, why don't you replace the fork seals yourself? you seem to have the mechanical/intellectual ability. Hearing your story I would feel more comfortable letting you work on my bike than the dealer described.
I made my own tools for changing the fork oil, and the job's a "bit of a bear", so, as I had several other jobs to do at the time I just figured I'd let the shop do it. Result? I've NOW removed that fork-leg (and all that other stuff...) THREE times. I'm re-installing later today when it's a bit warmer, HOPEFULLY for the last time....



Thanks for the kind words regarding my abilities....


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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2015, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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And here is BIG RED back together w/ the 18K mile Tourance back on, as well as new brake rotors. Probably later next week I'll re-install the rear (4K mile) Tourance....





after looking like THIS for awhile.


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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2015, 11:26 AM
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Is it just me or does that seem like a lot of effort to install a tire with 18,000 miles on it?

But, yeah, you'd never get a shop to do it for you so if it needs to be done...
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 10:25 AM
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Nice job Eddie !

Are those rotor oem ? (guessing not since bought on ebay)
If not, detail pleeeeze !


LOP
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Is it just me or does that seem like a lot of effort to install a tire with 18,000 miles on it?

But, yeah, you'd never get a shop to do it for you so if it needs to be done...
I did it BECAUSE most guys get roughly 36K miles out of a 130/80x17 Tourance on the FRONT. Worth mounting it for THAT much extra mileage...!

Quote:
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Nice job Eddie !
Are those rotor oem ? (guessing not since bought on ebay)
If not, detail pleeeeze !
LOP
Ebay. Made in China, w/ 6061 aluminum centers (the 'gold' bits), and delivered here for a total of just UNDER $180US, from their US warehouse.

BTW - the rotors I took off are in good condition, w/ 4.63mm on one, 4.66mm on the other. I'll post them in the FOR SALE section as 'freebies' if anyone can use 'em...!

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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Yesterday I removed the Kenda BIG BLOCK I'd installed in October '14, after 9,750 miles - SOME dirt, MOST pavement, w/ a tendency to slowly loose pressure. Lots of rubber still on it, minimum showing just under 1/8", but now I've re-installed the Tourance 150/70 I'd removed then. Check the pics....

NEW



USED




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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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good job my room mate works for HF the older zipties sucked due to the supplier NEVER replacing the casting molds, so 99% defects = **** zipties. and ya the zip tie way always worked great for me, i use to leave zipties on my replacement tires (loose not tightened up) when i use to do alot of offroad riding
FWIW - the zip-ties worked FINE doing the front Tourance (a 130/80 rear), but they 'didn't-like' working on the BIGGER 150/70 rear Tourance, so SEVERAL (out of about 24...) didn't hold, altho' that didn't stop the whole process from working about as SLICK as they did for the front!

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
FWIW - the zip-ties worked FINE doing the front Tourance (a 130/80 rear), but they 'didn't-like' working on the BIGGER 150/70 rear Tourance, so SEVERAL (out of about 24...) didn't hold, altho' that didn't stop the whole process from working about as SLICK as they did for the front!
for the rear double or triple the ties up to spread the load across multiple of the very weak locking tabs...if that makes seance

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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