Throttle let-off bogs bike down - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Throttle let-off bogs bike down

Bought my 2011 for moving up from a Honda Rebel. The guy took really good care of it, but did all the service himself AND skipped what he could not do. So, what did not get done was the vacuum sync at 7500 miles (now has 11,000). What it does is, if you let off completely on the throttle it is like what I imagine and engine brake on a truck feels like. It lower gears (1+2) it almost throws me forward a little. It is not too bad in higher gears and almost makes coming to a stop sign easier. My ride has the 44t sprocket in back to make things smoother (by prev owner-only he did it to “get the speedometer accurate”). I raised the idle a little and took the slack out of the throttle cable. All this helped to some degree. I have read the thread about the tubing between the two throttle bodies smoothing out the low end and will do that at some point. Do you think that and the synch of the vacuum will eliminate this bogging down? It is a pain if you are in a corner and want to let off a little and bogs down too far. I am working on getting my speed and rpm’s (a little higher) right as I approach the corner, but that is a work in progress. I do plan to go to the dealer for an 11.5K service in the next few weeks and will have the sync done then. Do you think they will put that tubing in place if I ask? Sorry, don’t have the mechanical skills to do that myself. Thanks for any words of advice.

Forty years away from 2 wheel fun. Sure is great to be back smelling the roses!!!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 02:52 PM
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The Versys does have a lot of engine braking from the factory. Not sure if yours is different.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 03:47 PM
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welcome to the world of a higher compression larger displacement bike, i have a few rebels myself . the engine braking you described is normal, and your idle should be 1300 +-50rpm once warmed up, and you want to have a little slack in the throttle cable, try coming into corners slower and accelerate at/after the apex, you do not want to be braking or slowing do mid turn, braking stands up the bike making it harder to turn,

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 04:01 PM
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Make sure your normal idle is at 1300 rpm. Then you can try adjusting your main throttle sensor to cure the lean bog, mostly near 2800 rpm.

Here's aka Yamadog's photo, with a T25 Torx tool on the Main Throttle Sensor screw. Start by rotating your Main Throttle Sensor (lower) counterclockwise by a very small amount (about 0.5mm). Before loosening Torx screw, look at how the sensor's green reference mark ligns up on the front, with your head against your front left turn signal.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 10:47 PM
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That is normal engine braking on the Versys 650.

If you are running stock sprockets 15/46 then engine braking in 1st gear is nearly like hitting a wall.

I have gone for 16T front (16/46) this gives me better cruising by lowering the RPMs a little, BUT it also takes that Dirt Bike 1st and makes it usable - engine braking is still there and manageable but not like hitting a brick wall.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 11:16 PM
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yeah the stock..or even with the 44t rear sprocket..engine braking is "strong"...I mashed my nads a couple of times and blamed the bike...it was my fault for NOT gripping the tank with my knees good enough...having said that..I did the vacuum tube mod and it makes the bike sooooo much smoother at lower rpms (no more surging..NO MORE)...the 44t sprocket is "higher" gearing and needs a bit more throttle at the lower rpms...for this I got a quick throttle...bogging down? down shift sooner...carrying higher rpms through the corner helps vrs loafing through the corners (harley style)...last but not least..there's a slipper clutch you can slide in there and eliminate a lot of the engine braking...personally I use the engine braking going into turns as much as my brakes...
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 12:00 PM
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What the others said plus one more tip: you will have less engine braking around town if you ride in 3rd or even 4th gear- you mentioned the first and second gear braking. "Short shift" for a while until you are more accustomed with the V.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 01:12 PM
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It can be set to a much smoother setting by simply adjusting the TPS (throttle position sensor) to the upper limits of the allowable factory limits. Between 1.005 - 1.035 V @ 1250rpm. Mine is set at 1.04-1,055V at 1250rpm and it has much less engine braking since set to those figures. I used my Power Commander PC interface to read Voltages while the bike was idling and to set it. You could use a normal multimeter or take it to a good mechanic.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-12-2015, 07:58 AM
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Of course all the mods these guys have mentioned make the bike better for novices and tame riders, but lessen the fun factor the bike comes with.
Might as well have bought a Honda NC700X.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-12-2015, 08:09 AM
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I don't know, I just don't really see much of an issue with it. Maybe use your clutch more? I typically roll to a stop in a higher gear then gear down nearing a complete stop, shift into second..and take back off in second. Even abrupt throttle changes don't seem to bother me much I guess Im getting used to the bike or its getting used to me... I know I noticed it minimally at first but that was on a new engine.. not so much now.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-12-2015, 02:49 PM
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I don't think it's that big a deal either. Time will provide experience and the rider will improve naturally, and eventually wonder why he made such a big deal out of engine braking. Yes, if you wind a bike out in a low gear and then abruptly let off the throttle, engine braking will come into effect. That is one thing that makes a motorcycle different than automatic transmission cars, and also one of the factors that make motorcycles fun.

I love the sound of engine braking, particularly in a tunnel where the reverberation really sings! Makes me want to jam a screwdriver down the muffler and destroy the baffle, piss off the neighbours. Ya, baby!
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks gang for all the good tips. I am practicing using all of them and getting smoother. Working on getting ready for my turns with decent rpm's and getting to turn speed before turn. Here is one question from a not very mechanical noobie. Invader says adjust "main throttle sensor" and Berty77 says adjust "throttle position sensor". Are you two guys talking about the same thing? AND, under which panel is this located? (so I don't have to tear off all the bodywork looking). The unanswered question is: Will getting the vacuum adjust done help with the bogging down? If it does not help the bogging down, what does it help? If the adjust is not critical, I will not rush to have it done. Thanks Again, Chuck

Forty years away from 2 wheel fun. Sure is great to be back smelling the roses!!!
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 04:43 PM
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Main throttle sensor is a throttle position sensor, yes.

It's on the left by the throttle bodies. No panel to remove for access.

Vacuum synchronizing the throttle bodies as required is not a cure for the lean stumble, but adjusting the main throttle sensor is.
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