Crankcase breather coming loose - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Crankcase breather coming loose

Anyone have trouble keeping the crankcase breather attached? When I recently bought my 2009, it looked like this:



So, I removed the tank and air cleaner to clean the area and check for why it was loose, but couldn't find anything. When reinstalling, I had a very hard time getting it lined up and clamped on. Now it's come loose again and this pic shows the misalignment better:




Any help would be appreciated. I've just had it for a bit over a month and have already put 2k miles on her. Really liking it.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 06:06 PM
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Make sure your throttle bodies and flanges are properly installed, and that the airbox is not tilted forward... You might have to remove the airbox again and loosen your throttle body flange clamps to ensure all is down as it should.

Also, is your engine overfilled with oil? What type of oil are you using, and how old is it?

Last edited by invader; 11-03-2015 at 06:13 PM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by invader View Post
Make sure your throttle bodies and flanges are properly installed, and that the airbox is not tilted forward... You might have to remove the airbox again and loosen your throttle body flange clamps to ensure all is down as it should.

Also, is your engine overfilled with oil? What type of oil are you using, and how old is it?
Oil is not overfilled. I think it's Mobil 1 synthetic. I am going to change it, but that's not the problem. It's alignment related since I had a very tough time just getting it lined up enough to get it on and get the clamp in position. Had nothing to do with the oil or level.

I did check the TBs, and they seem to be into their respective positions as low and aligned as I could get them. Since I bought it used, there's no telling what someone did before me. There didn't seem to be anything causing the airbox to be tilted forward. But IDK.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 06:46 PM
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It's still not normal to have all that aerated oil spewed from your crankcase vent. Something must also be up with your oil level, viscosity or condition. Do you ride at very high revs? Is the bottom of your airbox very oily, and is there much oil in the plugged collection tube at bottom of airbox?

Your airbox is likely tilted forward a bit in the flanges. Loosen the clamps and get her good and down at the back, then tighten clamps.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 07:25 PM
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your rubber hose is at wrong angle and needs to be rotated 180 degrees...

you can see in the pic the engine barb is tilted forward but your hose is tilted the wrong way.

I always have a fun time putting this back on... it's not the hose, but that damn spring clip. I use a "hose clamp cable tool" to hold the clamp open and a screw driver on the back end and wiggle it down onto the barb.

my tool:
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 07:47 PM
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Yes, I semi-consciously noticed that too. The molded tube needs to be rotated.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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I thought about the rotation too so I did rotate it around - with no luck. Here's a new one I bought to see if there was a difference. Same as what's installed.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:

So I removed everything (why can't the air box cover have at least 10 more screws???) and here's what I found.

1) A bit of oil in the air box and the tube was filled (about 7-8 cc drained):




2) The plate that the airbox bolts to determines the angle of the airbox. No way to lift the front.





3) Invader - I think you were right about the oil level? This seems too much??? (Bike is on jack stands under the front footpegs.)



4) I think I found the angle/height problem. When I grabbed the airbox mount plate to see if it would move to a better angle, it just came off the left side. The right side took a bit more effort, but slipped off without loosening the clamps. Grrrr. I thought I had checked that the last time. I tried to mash it back down on the TBs but the clamps were too tight. So I think this may be the issue.



Before putting it back together, should I change the plugs? Check the valve clearance? Balance the throttle bodies? Not that I really want to do this now. The odo just turned 10k miles.

Thanks for all the help.

Last edited by OHjim; 11-03-2015 at 09:20 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHjim View Post
...

Is this pic with the tank Off and the airbox NOT screwed down to the throttle body?

In the Pic the breather hose is not on correctly and should be squished more IF the airbox is in correct position.
With the airbox in correct position the breather hose is aligned and just sit on nicely.

Undo the spring clip so that it loose and up around the thin middle part of the hose.
You have to force the airbox front in 1st then hold the breather tube forward while forcibly slipping the rear down.
Once the airbox is in the bike frame you can align the breather hose and push the rear of the airbox down to seat the tube. You will not be able to do this if the spring clip is in final position - it has to be loose and dangling free.
You can then check the throttle body mounting and screw it down.
Now get in there and position that spring clip on lower part of hose to hold it in place.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHjim View Post
...


4) I think I found the angle/height problem. When I grabbed the airbox mount plate to see if it would move to a better angle, it just came off in my hand. Grrrr. I thought I had checked that the last time. I tried to mash it back down on the TBs but the clamps were too tight. So I think this may be the issue.



Before putting it back together, should I change the plugs? Check the valve clearance? Not that I really want to do this now. The odo just turned 10k miles.

Undo both TB clamps and put that plate back straight - You need to fix this for the airbox to sit correctly.

Easy stuff while you are there:
check the plugs and coil packs - the coil packs can crack. Put some copper slip (anti seize) on the coil pack rubbers so they are easier to pull later on.
Also synchronize the Throttle Bodies and if you want add a short hose to link Left and Right TB using the sync nipples.

Hard stuff:
Valve Adjustment??? How many Km on the bike? It is not a small job!
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 10:08 PM
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3) Invader - I think you were right about the oil level? This seems too much??? (Bike is on jack stands under the front footpegs.)



Before putting it back together, should I change the plugs? Check the valve clearance? Balance the throttle bodies? Not that I really want to do this now. The odo just turned 10k miles.

Thanks for all the help.
Yes your oil level is excessive... Get a more precise reading by holding Versys balanced upright by hand.
Is it Mobil 10W-40 motorcycle oil, and how many miles are on it?

Yes, all recommended maintenance would be advisable... You could just measure your valve lash clearances for now, before having to adjust them.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Yes your oil level is excessive... Get a more precise reading by holding Versys balanced upright by hand.
Is it Mobil 10W-40 motorcycle oil, and how many miles are on it?

Yes, all recommended maintenance would be advisable... You could just measure your valve lash clearances for now, before having to adjust them.
I put a level across the tank before removing it and the bike is close to level, but it's leaning such that the oil level might read a bit higher if perfectly level.

Not sure on the miles, but since I'm at 10k miles (even numbers are easier to keep track of ), I am going to change the oil and switch in a new pan from a 2013 Ninja for the improved drain location and less "vulnerable-ness" (per jdrocks' build).

I did get the airbox adapter plate installed correctly and temporarily attached the lower air box and the breather hose slid on easily - no wrangling required!!! I will remove it and do some maint in the next couple days.

Thanks all.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 12:46 AM
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 08:44 AM
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I would do the valve shims now - probably never have to do it again, just check it at 30k and if its still good then ignore it for a while.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 02:49 PM
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...I am going to change the oil and switch in a new pan from a 2013 Ninja for the improved drain location and less "vulnerable-ness" (per jdrocks' build)....
VERY good decision!


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