Winterization - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Winterization

Thoughts, comments, concerns?

First bike I had all i did for the winter was drain oil and put a new oil filter and new oil in it. ran the gas tank dry, filled up with new gas and put a bottle of stabilizer in. old bike wasn't fuel inject so i turned off the gas and ran till it died. (I don't know if this was the best thing to do for that bike but it worked well the 3 years I had it)

Whats the best think that I should do for the V? I would love to keep this bike for a lot longer than 3 years and want to take good care of her. Winter is right around the corner and I want to be prepared when the snow finally hits

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 09:29 AM
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In Winter we get to ride our bikes down here with maybe a maximum of a 6 week layoff, so it isn't worth doing anything other than keep the tank topped & polish my helmet!!!
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 10:28 AM
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The usual problem I've had with previous bikes is a dead unrecoverable battery in the spring. This winter I'll use a battery tender.

I've always done an oil change right before storage to avoid corrosive contaminants siiting in the engine all winter.

My first bike back in the 80's never had any fuel/carb issues but my last bike always had carb deposit problems in the spring. Maybe the modern fuels with ethanol are problematic. I'd prefer to totally drain the entire fuel system, but may just use a fuel treatment which the local shop says will do the job.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I'll just end up changing the oil and topping off the tank. That way on good days I'll still take it out. It doesn't get to insane here in Southern Illinois

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 11:44 AM
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You're in Southern Illinois. Weather not too bad there.

1. Inspect and clean bike.
2. Run tank as empty as possible, then add fresh fuel (with fuel stabilizer) and run long enough to get thru fuel system.
3. Remove battery and bring battery inside. Occasionally put it on a tender to check charge state.

DO NOT occasionally start bike unless you're going to ride it. Bad idea.

No matter where you go - there you are.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 11:58 AM
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put ethenal free in it and no stabilizer, change the oil check your coolant and unhook battery and hook a tender up. also plug the tail pipe and intake if you can easly (to keep cridders out) and thrpw a blanket and or cover over it and call it good

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 12:32 PM
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I don't know how you guys up North handle riding a motorcycle: you can't do if full time! I just did my winterizing on my bike in LA. I topped up the air in my tires and washed/waxed my bike.

When I was at Fort Leonard Wood in the US Army, I had a Yamaha scooter with small round wheels. It went down on icy roads a few times, and I'll be damned, it bounced right back up rolling at max speed about 30 mph! I never saw anything like that: it was perfect for average 30 degrees below 0 temperatures during January's (1983.) It was Real, and it was Fun: but it wasn't Real Fun!



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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know how you guys up North handle riding a motorcycle: you can't do if full time! I just did my winterizing on my bike in LA. I topped up the air in my tires and washed/waxed my bike.
Noted. I have a cover for it. I'll plug the intake and tail pipe. It probably wont get ridden for 3 months, hopefully not longer than that.

Do you guys think it's very important to get the tires up off the ground? I can run a couple hours south to our dairy farm and get a big block to put it on if need be. Or rig something up from spare materials I have from building my entertainment system.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 01:52 PM
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I do what's already been suggested. Ethanol is a problem, but worse for carbed machines. I've had good results filling the tank to the top, adding an ethanol treatment such as Startron plus some Stabil, then running the bike for about 10 mins to distribute through the system.

Agree with everything else: fresh oil, lube chain, keep battery charged.

As far as tires, it may be better to get them off the ground, but I've always just filled them up with air, a bit more than usual, and parked the bike on several layers of corrugated cardboard for insulation.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 03:04 PM
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what I do with mine is... fresh fuel with stabilizer, fresh oil, plug the exhaust, pull the battery, clean the chain and spray with good lube

if I'm answering your question I assume the basic points have been addressed, such as: did you do a compression test? is it still on fire?
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stversys View Post
Thanks guys. I'll just end up changing the oil and topping off the tank. That way on good days I'll still take it out. It doesn't get to insane here in Southern Illinois
I fill-up and add Stabil at a station about 8 miles from home. Then the ride back home makes sure the Stabil is thru-out the fuel-system. Then bike up on two T-Rex stands (tires OFF the concrete), battery in a plastic tray on the workbench w/ a 'tender' attached thru a timer, cover on.

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 11:12 PM
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I don't do anything to winterize. I ride it when I can and maintain it when I can.

This winter, I will likely take Bucephalus offline for a while to check valves and perform a variety of other maintenance since I have not been up-to-date on such things in quite a while.

My '08 sure seems to be doing fine so far. Kawasaki seems to make a pretty good bike.

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-27-2015, 12:34 PM
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"Winter" Whats That ???????

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-27-2015, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stversys View Post
Do you guys think it's very important to get the tires up off the ground? I can run a couple hours south to our dairy farm and get a big block to put it on if need be. Or rig something up from spare materials I have from building my entertainment system.
no, mine sat in one spot for 6 months while I was away on orders. no flat spots or anything harmed by sitting.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-27-2015, 06:48 PM
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Great info. In years past the typical winterizing could be described best as neglect and possibly even abuse. So far, I've not given in to storage yet as it hasn't dipped below 30 or snowed. Will try to treat the Versys better...
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-27-2015, 08:28 PM
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I remember reading somewhere a long time ago that tires should be kept off of the concrete floor in the winter. I think it had to do with moisture. I've never seen a problem with any tires I've had parked for storage. Still I'll try to get tires off the floor if it will be sitting there all winter.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-27-2015, 10:19 PM
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As noted in your owner's manual, tires should be deflated to 2/3 of their normal air pressure for storage.
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 03:37 AM
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For 3 or 4 months all i would do disconnect the positive battery lead and tender it every month for a day.

Would not change oil until after first ride back, why let fresh oil sit in a motor that may get some condensation contamination, the old oil will still protect the engine.

No need to block off anything or raise it off the ground, new bikes are often in the show room longer than 3 months, this way if you get a good day its one screw and its ready start when ever you get the feeling to hear the motor riding or not.

Last edited by ggg; 10-28-2015 at 03:42 AM.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 04:16 AM
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Everyone has a different threshold for riding during the winter but we do get a warm day every 6-8 weeks so that's the most my bike will sit. Before "winter" an oil change is in order. I'll put seafoam in an empty tank and fill with high octane gas then run it for 10 min. Lube everything. Put a trickle charger on it. Get it off the ground with a spool stand. Maybe plug the exhaust then store it in my garage under a bike cover. The last thing I do is cry in my hands since I won't be riding.

I think it's best to avoid a short start, particularly when it's below freezing as this isn't enough time to dry out the engine from condensation. I'll likely never fog an engine unless it sits for >6mo. I'm less worried about gunk buildup with a fuel injected bike than I am with carbeurated bikes.
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 04:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggg View Post
Would not change oil until after first ride back, why let fresh oil sit in a motor that may get some condensation contamination, the old oil will still protect the engine.

No need to block off anything or raise it off the ground, new bikes are often in the show room longer than 3 months, this way if you get a good day its one screw and its ready start when ever you get the feeling to hear the motor riding or not.
Good point about the showroom bikes. Funny thing is the used bikes were moved in and out everyday at my dealership and the new bikes were so tightly packed who knows how long it'd been.

Oil wise your probably right and I guess it depends on how long it'd been since your last change before winter. Either way you won't get the same coverage regardless of new vs old(ish) oil without fogging it.
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