FI Indicator Goes On And Off - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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FI Indicator Goes On And Off

My 2009 Versys has 9400 miles. Recently the FI indicator lights up while running in the afternoon. It hasn't yet happened in the morning on the way to work, so I think it is heat related. The indicator erratically turns off, usually on speed changes or gear changes. I have tried to call up the error codes, but there are none. I guess it doesn't generate error codes if the FI light doesn't lock on.
I have a service manual, but can't find this situation listed. Anybody have an idea of what the light is telling me? I'm guessing there is something wrong in the fuel system, but don't want to take it for service if there is a simple solution.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010, 10:42 PM
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The FI light will go OFF after being on, if the sensor comes back into range for any reason. The ECU will resume normal operation. However, the event is memorized.

To recover codes set in memory (Diagnostic Mode 2); KEY ON, touch the self-diagnosis terminal rapidly to ground more than 5 times within 2 seconds. The lead must remain rounded (after 5 groundings) for the remainder of the diagnostic session. The codes will readout exactly as in Mode 1.

CODE Malfunction

11_______ Main throttle sensor
12_______ Inlet air pressure sensor
13_______ Inlet air temperature sensor
14_______ Water temperature sensor
21_______ Crankshaft sensor
24 & 25___Speed sensor (24 then 25, repeatedly)
31_______Vehicle-down sensor
32_______Subthrottle sensor
33_______Oxygen sensor inactive (Europe)
51_______Ignition Coil #1
52_______Ignition Coil #2
56_______Radiator Fan Relay
62_______Subthrottle valve actuator (sensor in range but not responding)
64_______Air switching valve
67_______Oxygen sensor heater (Europe)
94_______Oxygen sensor out-of-range

To clear codes from the ECU, enter MODE 2, pull the clutch in for more than 5 seconds.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 09:46 AM
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Invader,

Can you please elaborate more on how to conduct self diagnostics. The FI light comes on and off on my 15' Versys after riding in heavy rain several times. I followed the stepps above but the light is constantly on (after KEY is turned to ON), and doesn't respond to grounding.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
The FI light will go OFF after being on, if the sensor comes back into range for any reason. The ECU will resume normal operation. However, the event is memorized.

To recover codes set in memory (Diagnostic Mode 2); KEY ON, touch the self-diagnosis terminal rapidly to ground more than 5 times within 2 seconds. The lead must remain rounded (after 5 groundings) for the remainder of the diagnostic session. The codes will readout exactly as in Mode 1.

CODE Malfunction

11_______ Main throttle sensor
12_______ Inlet air pressure sensor
13_______ Inlet air temperature sensor
14_______ Water temperature sensor
21_______ Crankshaft sensor
24 & 25___Speed sensor (24 then 25, repeatedly)
31_______Vehicle-down sensor
32_______Subthrottle sensor
33_______Oxygen sensor inactive (Europe)
51_______Ignition Coil #1
52_______Ignition Coil #2
56_______Radiator Fan Relay
62_______Subthrottle valve actuator (sensor in range but not responding)
64_______Air switching valve
67_______Oxygen sensor heater (Europe)
94_______Oxygen sensor out-of-range

To clear codes from the ECU, enter MODE 2, pull the clutch in for more than 5 seconds.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 03:10 AM
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Mine is a 2007, so I'm not sure if the technology has changed since... Do you have that orange bullet connector? Did you get its bare metal on your chassis' bare metal somehow?

Last edited by invader; 01-21-2018 at 05:59 PM.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 01:16 PM
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Electrical 101

Quote:
Originally Posted by HitMan View Post
My 2009 Versys has 9400 miles. Recently the FI indicator lights up while running in the afternoon. It hasn't yet happened in the morning on the way to work, so I think it is heat related. The indicator erratically turns off, usually on speed changes or gear changes. I have tried to call up the error codes, but there are none. I guess it doesn't generate error codes if the FI light doesn't lock on.
I have a service manual, but can't find this situation listed. Anybody have an idea of what the light is telling me? I'm guessing there is something wrong in the fuel system, but don't want to take it for service if there is a simple solution.
The very first thing I suggest is removing every ground, cleaning with a red scotch brite pad and reinstalling with a extremely light coat of dielectric grease. There are quite a number of these grounds, some are directly to the ECU and do not have a direct / jumpered connection to the negative battery ground system, in other words, the negative post and charging system connects to some steel / aluminum portion of the bike, the ECU connects to this negative polarity through the steel frame work of the bike. Many of the negative electrical system connections, connects to both frame / aluminum metal and wiring, exceptions are some of the ECU grounds. The ECU grounds are hidden under the steel cross brace that the front of the seat sits on, there is also a frame ground just 6 inches back of this brace on the same side ( both of these are on the foot brake side--very close to the test plug). Another area that is quite common is the engine ground, which is extremely difficult to get at on the 2015 but the 2009, shouldn't be a problem, this is accessed from the clutch actuating lever side, one piece of plastic needs to be removed just towards the rear of the throttle cam as very little room is available, this is a copper / silver plated connector from the negative terminal of the battery to the aluminum alloy casting of the gear box, and is the main source for the starter motor negative. There may also be a ground up near the headlight on either the clutch side or front brake side, this is primarily to do with the speedometer display illumination, headlight/ signal lights and city lights.

One last thing, some of the early MK-1 which is 2007 to 2009 had a main socket that went to the display and was prone to water damage / corrosion , some of the signals were joined at this socket and returned to the ECU , this is shown in the electrical drawing of the manual ( FYI the 660 page service manual is in PDF format downloadable to members , if you can't find it please PM me
I would be removing and cleaning every ground before I spent too much time trying to read the trouble code, That is a start.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
The very first thing I suggest is removing every ground, cleaning with a red scotch brite pad and reinstalling with a extremely light coat of dielectric grease. There are quite a number of these grounds, some are directly to the ECU and do not have a direct / jumpered connection to the negative battery ground system, in other words, the negative post and charging system connects to some steel / aluminum portion of the bike, the ECU connects to this negative polarity through the steel frame work of the bike. Many of the negative electrical system connections, connects to both frame / aluminum metal and wiring, exceptions are some of the ECU grounds. The ECU grounds are hidden under the steel cross brace that the front of the seat sits on, there is also a frame ground just 6 inches back of this brace on the same side ( both of these are on the foot brake side--very close to the test plug). Another area that is quite common is the engine ground, which is extremely difficult to get at on the 2015 but the 2009, shouldn't be a problem, this is accessed from the clutch actuating lever side, one piece of plastic needs to be removed just towards the rear of the throttle cam as very little room is available, this is a copper / silver plated connector from the negative terminal of the battery to the aluminum alloy casting of the gear box, and is the main source for the starter motor negative. There may also be a ground up near the headlight on either the clutch side or front brake side, this is primarily to do with the speedometer display illumination, headlight/ signal lights and city lights.

One last thing, some of the early MK-1 which is 2007 to 2009 had a main socket that went to the display and was prone to water damage / corrosion , some of the signals were joined at this socket and returned to the ECU , this is shown in the electrical drawing of the manual ( FYI the 660 page service manual is in PDF format downloadable to members , if you can't find it please PM me
I would be removing and cleaning every ground before I spent too much time trying to read the trouble code, That is a start.
You're responding to the original 7.5 year old post... Vaulter has a 2015.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 10:28 AM
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Mk-3

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Originally Posted by invader View Post
You're responding to the original 7.5 year old post... Vaulter has a 2015.
Your partially correct as to the year, as to my original advice, 100% accurate, the ECU grounds are indeed under the support rail for the seat, they do not get connected to any other negative wire in the wire harness, the 2015 has something like over 6 frame grounds, I own a 2015 , as to the code, there is a 2015 service manual on the forum. I will post a How To for MK-3 Frame ground #5 is associated with the display, located on the right side at the headlight ground.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...dfi-table.html

Last edited by onewizard; 01-22-2018 at 11:36 AM.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-23-2018, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vaulter View Post
Invader,

Can you please elaborate more on how to conduct self diagnostics. The FI light comes on and off on my 15' Versys after riding in heavy rain several times. I followed the stepps above but the light is constantly on (after KEY is turned to ON), and doesn't respond to grounding.

Thanks
Did a update on my last link, it is now working. The code reading has changed drastically for the MK-3.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 07:31 PM
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bike doesn't start anymore

Thanks for your responses guys.

The bike was acting weird ever since I had that light go on and off after riding in the rain. last couple of days the bike would start only after many attempts until today is was refusing to start completely. When I turn the switch to "on" the fuel pump doesn't make the normal sound it used to make. I am thinking it has to do with the pump wiring or maybe the pump went bust... but i dont know how to check because I wasn't able to read the diagnostic codes. Please help.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vaulter View Post
Thanks for your responses guys.

The bike was acting weird ever since I had that light go on and off after riding in the rain. last couple of days the bike would start only after many attempts until today is was refusing to start completely. When I turn the switch to "on" the fuel pump doesn't make the normal sound it used to make. I am thinking it has to do with the pump wiring or maybe the pump went bust... but i dont know how to check because I wasn't able to read the diagnostic codes. Please help.
I spent a considerable amount of time getting the PDF files to stick, basically you can download them and print them out. I provided a link in post 7
and I only missed 11 pages, that is I realized this once the paper copy came out, so yes many advantages to a paper copy. I added those pages.

Turns out the fuel pump, fuel pump relay and some problems with the stick coils are confusing to the diagnostics therefore no error codes for those conditions.

Last edited by onewizard; 01-24-2018 at 08:40 PM.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 08:47 PM
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Fuel Pump testing

This will take time, my preference is to rule out the relay and possibly the battery. So some questions while I gather more info:
#1 will the bike turn over using the start button and does it sound like it is turning over at about normal RPM= a good battery.
#2 Are the city lights on and tail light?
#3 Is the yellow engine light on continuous or is it off?
#4 How much fuel in the tank and is this your same gas station you purchase gas from *****thinking remotely bad gas, however that doesn't explain the pump sound
Answer those and I will post how to bypass the fuel pump relay, need to gather some photos
fuel pump socket

release from back side of socket, slide forward towards front of bike to release




So this gets confusing, the wire going to the fuel pump & male socket: Black with white tracer is negative **Black with yellow tracer is positive ** Red with black tracer the fuel level gauge Now pay attention the female socket Black with yellow tracer is negative and yes it connects to the Black white of the male plug also negative**The female socket positive is white with a red tracer connecting to the male black yellow and last the female socket white with black tracer is the level gauge connected to the male plug red black wire.

Several ways to do it, try bypassing the fuel pump relay, disconnect the male plug , you may need a second pair of hands and some 16 gauge wire, positive to the black with yellow tracer and negative to the black with white tracer, once started the fuel pump normally runs continuous, so having it run continuous is fine. what I have done in the past is had 16 gauge wire stripped 1/4 inch, lay on top of terminal and tape in place, this will take a bit of creativity . Try starting the bike, if it runs the next step would be to put the plug back together, I have used straight pins, inserted into the wire side of the socket, then used my meter with alligators to measure the voltage when running, this could be done first or last

Last edited by onewizard; 01-24-2018 at 09:37 PM.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
This will take time, my preference is to rule out the relay and possibly the battery. So some questions while I gather more info:
#1 will the bike turn over using the start button and does it sound like it is turning over at about normal RPM= a good battery.
#2 Are the city lights on and tail light?
#3 Is the yellow engine light on continuous or is it off?
#4 How much fuel in the tank and is this your same gas station you purchase gas from *****thinking remotely bad gas, however that doesn't explain the pump sound
Answer those and I will post how to bypass the fuel pump relay, need to gather some photos
fuel pump socket

release from back side of socket, slide forward towards front of bike to release


I uploaded a video https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zI...E7CSf1FhLHV2FJ
Lights work. tank is full, filled up at known gas station.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 09:54 PM
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Sounds like your fuel pump relay is chattering, battery is good, can't explain the pulsing engine light.. Now there are a few lock out conditions, example; crankshaft position sensor, vehicle down sensor ,the chattering could be the ECU interrupting the fuel pump. Each time it turns over it can't see this. Try a couple more things, try starting with the clutch pulled in and the kickstand up, yes even though you are in neutral, stranger things have happened, last question, is this out of warranty .
It could be the fuel pump, however I think you need to test the crankshaft sensor.The flashing yellow engine light is associated with your problem. If you read 3-25 part way down, the vehicle down sensor duplicates exactly what is happening now, it is located in the very front towards the clutch side, this sensor is rubber mounted and right of center. Looking at the photo to the right of the photo you see the left side windshield mounting bracket, just below and slightly left you see the vehicle down sensor with the wire traveling towards the throttle side, you can just make out the one mounting bolt.

Last edited by onewizard; 01-24-2018 at 10:26 PM.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 03:29 PM
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Searched a old Thread

So here is a old thread,tip over or as in the manual, vehicle down sensor. Very similar conditions, I am thinking of adding this thread to that one. The very end result after paying 6 hours of shop labour and numerous false I think we solved itthe end result?? Vehicle down sensor defective. Read the whole thread:http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...vehicle+sensor go to the last post and see the answer.

Just for laughs, view my post #7 of that thread, and no I haven't edited , I have spent over 40 years of troubleshooting electrical /electronics , with all the correct symptoms, I rule out the obvious and then prove the problem through various tests, many of my tests are truly my tests, not found anywhere else, sometimes my knowledge is like a curse , I can't turn off my thought process, this post is just a example of that.

Last edited by onewizard; 01-27-2018 at 10:51 AM.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-27-2018, 05:24 PM
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Finally had time to work on the bike today. I sprayed WD40 at the area where the kick stand folds (and where the sensor is). Turns out there was a lot of dirt and old grease from the chain. I let it sit for 5 minutes and then cleaned it with cloth. The bike starts now with no problem. I will update this post if the problem comes back. Thanks for the input everyone.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 08:19 AM
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Give it Time

I can assure you it wasn't the side stand switch, the contact makes when the stand is up, it serves a similar purpose as the lock out switch, prevents the starter from energizing . If you get time, remove the vehicle down sensor, make sure there isn't any corrosion on the socket or plug, give it a couple of shakes and re-install it.

Defective side stand would:
Allow the bike to start in neutral , provided the neutral light is on, quit the instant the bike was in gear, also inhibit starting the bike in gear ( inhibit starter motor), identical to the lockout switch.

Last edited by onewizard; 01-28-2018 at 09:25 AM.
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