MotoMan engine break-in...anyone tried it? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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MotoMan engine break-in...anyone tried it?

I recently read the MotoMan article which states it's better to break the engine in using a 'harder-riding' technique that what the owner's manual states. Has anyone tried this with the VERSYS? Does anyone know anything about this technique? As a potential VERSYS owner, I am interested in knowing how to correctly break in the engine.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

As a sidenote, many BMW GS owners find that by following the break in procedures found in the owners manual, the bike gets worse gas mileage in the long run, as well as consuming large amounts of engine oil.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 09:49 AM
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I sort of used that break in method on my Elantra. It runs fine, no damage to the engine as far as I can tell, and it doesn't burn any oil.

Basically, I drove it like I was going to drive it, just avoiding any long stretches at the same RPM at first.

I got my V used, so I can't tell you how it would work with a bike.

Based on what I've seen on other forums about the break in method, you may have inadvertently opened a can of worms.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 10:24 AM
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I have broken in motorcycles, and cars, that way for as long as I can remember. I had a couple of Concours go close to 100,000 miles before I got rid of them. I even broke my KLR in that way. It, nor any of them, have ever used any oil. Babying an engine like Kawasaki suggests is just looking for trouble in my book. The only reason for breakin is seating the rings to the cylinder. A couple of good cycles like Motoman suggests does the trick. Ride it like you stole it!
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 01:50 PM
 
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I did roughly the motoman method on my old GSXR and it caused no trouble and the motor ran very strong. I took it easy on the V but definitely did not stick strictly to the book.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 05:04 PM
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Just ride it like you would normally. The key thing is letting the bike come up to temp before beating on it too hard. I rode my bike maybe 10 miles under the 4k limit, then just rode it like I normally do. I am not a person that has ever hit a rev limiter, and did not do that on the V. Just find some good road and run it up through the gears and back down. I do agree you need to load the rings, and he is right about very little time to get it done. My V does not use oil, in 6k miles and it gets consistently over 50 mpg and I ride in the 70-80 mph range all the time.

Todd
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 06:40 PM
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I've tried all kinds of break-in and never noticed a real difference. At least, not enough to contribute it to one break-in over another. Mix it up, vary the revs, put some good load (Acceleration and decel.) on it, and it'll do fine.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 06:54 PM
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I just don't have the patients to break anything in as stated in the owners manual. Just don't wail on it until it's fully up to temperature. Fully up to temperature means the oil has reached operating temp, not just the coolant. With no gauge it's tough, but mid-revs for the first 5 (summer) - 10 (winter) miles. This information comes from an acquaintance of mine who works in the Dyno room for DEI.

Don
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 10:53 PM
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Followed owners manual. Went quickly and no problems.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 04:16 AM
 
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I broke in my V almost like that.
The Kawa dealer that sold me the bike told me to ride it like normal, just no full gas on 1st gear.
I have no other V to compare with but my bike runns good.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 05:43 PM
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I used it - bike runs great. Of course, I don't have an identical V to compare to, so I can't state "scientifically" that it worked or is any better than the factory break in. But what he says seems to make sense. I'm happy with the results.

Some statements that I can make:

Definitely change the oil after the first 100-150 miles. I did see quite a few sparkly metal bits in mine when I changed at 150 miles, noticed a few bits at the 300 mile change and virtually nothing at 750 mile change. Oil was still somewhat amber colored - so that would seem to say that the combustion chambers have sealed pretty tight and not a lot of blow-by getting into the oil.

Don't use synthetic. Through the process of selling an old car and buying a new one, I would up with a quart of synthetic oil that was the wrong weight for any car I owned, but the right weight for a new lawnmower I bought. So I thought "What the heck...I know some people say don't break in on synthetic, but the FAQ of most synthetic oil mfr's say it is OK" So I broke the mower in with the full synth. oil. Now every time I start it up, it smokes like burning coal for a minute or so...I don't think the rings ever sealed.

Just my .02

Corey
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2008, 10:06 PM
 
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I rode as I normally would for the first 10 miles, then did a few short blasts up to 8500 rpm and let it compression brake back to about 3500 rpm. Then I rode home trying to keep it under load the whole time. After that, I would just focus on keeping in under load in it's power band with the "fun run." I changed the oil after 50 miles and cut the filter open. I noticed a few pieces of metal, but nothing significant.
I've been riding what I consider normally since the first oil change with no problems and I have no complaints on power or economy. I changed the oil again at 150, 600, 1200 miles with decreasing metal flakes in the filter (no noticeable flakes at 1200 miles).
Now I just do routine maintenance and enjoy.
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