HELP needed asap! - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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HELP needed asap!

I'm out with my wife right now and went to start my V. When I turn it on I hear it run thru it's diagnostics fine. But when I click the starter, I hear this loud buzzing coming from under the seat/tank area.

I have tried letting it sit to no avail. It will periodically try to crank when I push the start button but then it'll click and then do the buzzing. The buzzing stops when I let go of the starter button.

Is there anything I can do here to either fix it or get it started so I can get it home? Anyone know why this could be??? I really don't want to pay for a tow truck!

Help!
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 10:45 PM
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You battery. Check it out first or try jump start your bike and what do you mean by Buzzing.
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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I guess it could be the battery but all the lights work completely fine.

By buzzing I mean when I hit the starter it tries to turn over than clicks then goes "Bzzzzzzzzzzz". Kinda like the starter solenoid in a car when it goes bad.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Can I jump start it from a car?
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 10:50 PM
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IT' s your battery. Jump start , should be fine.

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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Jumped it from my wifes car and itstaryed right up. So now the question is, why did it die in the first place?

The bike has 698 miles. I'm running dual 55w halogen driving lights switched thru a relay to the low beam and I just installed an admore kit.

I had been driving for nearly an hour when I stopped and turned the bike off right away. When I went to turn it back on, this happens. Any ideas???
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 11:07 PM
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It's the battery and we usually will charge the battery using portable charges. Anyway you might get warranty claim if the battery is not charging or keeping charge. Might as well just run to dealer and check things out.

Glad to be of service.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 11:08 PM
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Battery connections are good and tight? The admore kit and lights relay wires are all well installed? Are your dual driving lights off until engine is started?
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 11:11 PM
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on the other thought you might have drained the battery because of "I'm running dual 55w halogen driving lights "

First check weather the battery is charging and try not using the Driving light and see what happens.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Battery connections are good and tight? The admore kit and lights relay wires are all well installed? Are your dual driving lights off until engine is started?
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Originally Posted by Fastoman View Post
on the other thought you might have drained the battery because of "I'm running dual 55w halogen driving lights "

First check weather the battery is charging and try not using the Driving light and see what happens.
Battery connections were perfect and I rechecked the relays and install on the lights and everything seems normal.

Yes, I installed the driving lights relay on the low beam wire so that they only come on when the engine starts.

I've had the driving lights on the bike for 4 weeks now and have been on multiple (3-7 hours) long drives and have zero problems. The only addition that has changed is the addition of the admore lighting LED strips for my Givi case. But I can't see LED's drawing that much power to cause this???

I'm going to take it into the dealer tomorrow and see what they say.

One more thing I noticed when I got home: my clock and trip odometers had been reset.

EDIT: Just found this thread. http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...=won%27t+start
slowfaller's video is EXACTLY what my bike was doing.

Last edited by jchristian79; 06-25-2010 at 12:21 AM.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 02:41 AM
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You maybe leaking or over drawing current.
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/battery.htm

On return from your dealer , keep us posted please.

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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchristian79 View Post
Battery connections were perfect and I rechecked the relays and install on the lights and everything seems normal.

Yes, I installed the driving lights relay on the low beam wire so that they only come on when the engine starts.

I've had the driving lights on the bike for 4 weeks now and have been on multiple (3-7 hours) long drives and have zero problems. The only addition that has changed is the addition of the admore lighting LED strips for my Givi case. But I can't see LED's drawing that much power to cause this???

I'm going to take it into the dealer tomorrow and see what they say.

One more thing I noticed when I got home: my clock and trip odometers had been reset.

EDIT: Just found this thread. http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...=won%27t+start
slowfaller's video is EXACTLY what my bike was doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DIOq-6Tcdc
personally I'd put the driving lights on a separate switch, NOT the headlight circuit... why? becuase I don't know the exact timing of when the headlight comes on, but its possible that the driving lights may be on at the same time as the start motor is cycling.. if so thats an extra 110w not available to the starter

I'd also be tempted to find out what the battery voltage is, and want to know what the voltage when running is.. that means considering fitting a voltmeter to the bike

the fact that you jump started it from the another battery suggest its a charging system fault
to that means
..duff battery so fully charge the battery, take the voltage after charging, leave it say 24 hours retake the voltage, any significant drop suggests you have a duff battery.. significant means anything more than say .1 of a volt
..duff charging circuit (stator, rotor, alternator or regulator) voltage when the engine is running should be around 14.4v, may be lower on idle)
..to much current being drawn from the alternator to properly recharge the battery
..or two or more of the above.
disconnect all your gadgets test the voltage with the engine running should be 14.4v or there abouts..

connect each gadget sequentially and test the voltage with the engine running, the voltage should never drop below 12.4v as that would indicate near zero charge going into the battery. ideally you want that battery voltage to be at least 12.8v when shut down.
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: After getting the bike home last night, I let it sit overnight (about 10 hours). I went out this morning and fired it right up, no problems whatsoever. I called the dealer I bought it from and talked with a service guy there. He agreed that it probably was the battery, but also agreed that it shouldn't have run down that fast. He said that if it's not doing it now, then I'd have to bring it in and have them put it through a slew of tests to try and replicate/find a problem.

His thought is that maybe the driving lights were drawing too much power to charge the battery and suggested I try checking the voltage as you guys mentioned here. He said if it happens again, call them and they can come pick it up and then they'll look into it.

I'm going to get a multimeter today so I can check the voltage with the lights on/off and see how it looks. I just can't believe though that the lights are the issue considering that I've been running those driving lights for 4 weeks on rides as long as 7 hours with no problems at all.

But alas, it still happened so I just have to figure it out I guess. I'm hesitant to just drop it off at the dealer and have them look into because a) he said it will take 3 days and b) if the problem does lie with the driving lights or work I've done, warranty won't cover it and I'll be out the expenses.

I'll report back later what the results were of the voltage readings.
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 12:50 PM
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there should be enough power from the alternator.. IIRC its puts out about 340 watts. I don't know what the 'free' capacity of the charging circuit is but at least half your available power is going to lighting.

it may be that the last two or three times you've not generated enough power (ie been at high enough revs to recharge the battery, or perhpas you did more idling at low speed) and the charging circuit hasn't had time to recharge the battery meaning that eventually the battery crapped out with insufficient power.

first check should be to ensure the battery is OK.. if it holds its charge overnight or say over a day then its unlikely its the battery, after that its the charging circuit and short of putting a voltmeter on the engine whilst its running theres not a lot you can do easily.

I'd be tempted to check the regulator to make certain you've got a fully working rectifier see pages 16-32 on of the service manual)
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 04:19 PM
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Any chance that when you were out with your wife you turned off the engine but left the key on for awhile by mistake. Perhaps you stopped the bike and put the kick stand down which kills the motor when in gear and never turned the key off. I'm asking because I've done this. Your headlight and driving lights would suck down the battery pretty quick leaving you stuck without enough juice to start it. Just a thought. Also, when jump starting the Versys from a car you should have the car engine off. I read something about possible electrical damage if the car is running.

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE 2: Per your guys' advice, I picked up a multimeter today and did some testing on my power draws. I think healdem might have hit it on the head. Last night while I was out, I had been gone for about 1 1/2 hours, but had stopped several times for 10-20 minutes or so for my wife to take pictures of the bike.

Each of these times, I left the bike in neutral, idling with all the accessories on. The bike had been idling for about 15 minutes when I turned it off and subsequently ran into the battery issue. After running my tests today, I believe I may have pegged that as the issue.

EDIT: It seems to me that I apparently have too much running at a time to be properly charging my bike. Is this true? I see plenty of guys on here that run way more than this and haven't had these problems before. Is it possible that the charging system on the bike is bad (it doesn't seem like it from the readings, but I could be wrong).
Here's the results of what I got:

The multimeter read 12.03 volts on the cold battery. It fired up just fine. Immediately after I fired it up and it was idling high it read 14.27. Once it warmed up and the idle dropped, it read 13.15.

Bike at idle speed
No accessories: 13.15 (12.38v when fan was on)
W/ only Driving lights: 12.8
W/ only Givi lights: 12.8
W/ driving lights & hi beam: 11.88
W/ driving lights, hi beam & Givi lights: 11.85
W/ driving lights, hi beam, Givi lights and fan: 11.63
EDIT: I believe the numbers above are off, I forgot to check whether or not the fan was also on for the first three. I got the

Bike at 3500 rpm
No accessories: 14.35 (13.2 when fan kicked on)
W/ only Driving lights: 13.37 (12.56 with fan)
W/ only Givi lights: 14.2 (no fan)
W/ driving lights & hi beam: 12.75 (12.2 with fan)
W/ driving lights, hi beam & Givi lights: 12.46 (no fan)

After all the testing, I turned everything off, let it idle for another minute or two and shut off the bike. The battery reading after the bike was off was 12.20v.

I realized as I was testing this that the radiator fan adds a significant draw on the power as well when that kicks on. While the bike is moving, the fan should be kicking on unless it's extremely hot outside. But I can definitely see how it would kick on for long periods of idling.

So what do you guys think? I can definitely see how there was too much draw on the system last night to properly charge the battery, resulting in what I experienced, but under normal operating conditions (short warm up, normal driving at average rpms, etc.) do you think I'll still encounter problems?

Also, my cold reading on the battery (12.03v) worries me a little bit. Could my battery have been damaged last night by running it down?

In addition, my driving lights are wired to a relay that is activated once the lo beam comes one (which happens after the engine starts). I have also run a manual switch for the driving lights as well so that once the motor is running, I can manually turn them on and off.

EDIT: I thought I'd also mention that I normally drive with my hi beams on during the day. I guess that's another 55w on the system.

Last edited by jchristian79; 06-26-2010 at 08:23 PM.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 06:11 PM
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the proper value of the battery should be about 12.8 volts when the engine is off.
take it off and charge for 3-4 hours with a current of 1 A .
you obviously drawing too much current,your alternator cant provide the amperage you ask.this will be a slow death for your battery if you insist on the same plan.
the worst scenario would be a damaged rectifier/regulator,a dead ecu,weak spark arc etc...
i would advice you to use lower wattage lights,the alternator is rated to provide about 8A/14V at 4000 rpm,rated ....its about 110 watt,you are already there only with front lights.dont go to the dealer,if he reads the service manual you will be
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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first check should be to ensure the battery is OK.. if it holds its charge overnight or say over a day then its unlikely its the battery, after that its the charging circuit and short of putting a voltmeter on the engine whilst its running theres not a lot you can do easily.

I'd be tempted to check the regulator to make certain you've got a fully working rectifier see pages 16-32 on of the service manual)
I just took my battery out and took it to the local auto parts store. They tested it and said it's good, just low and needs to be charged. I don't have a charger so I'll have to take the bike out for a bit to charge it up.

I looked up the process on page 16-32 on the manual. Before I dig into that, if the regulator/rectifier was bad, would I keep experiencing this issue? Or would it present any other symptoms? Basically, what would be the symptoms of a bad regulator/rectifier?

I'm not too knowledgeable about doing this test and would like to avoid jumping into to something I'm not quite certain on how to do if I can avoid it.
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 08:50 PM
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Sounds like you have a regulator problem, also the manual is incorrect as to the output. 24 amp @14 volts http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ernator+output
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 09:27 PM
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220 watts in headlights alone is quite a draw. Add in the fuel pump and itís not surprising that the alternator isnít keeping up with it at idle...
.

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