Thanks, invader. And the rest of you, too.
. Today I bought a Yuasa.
Anyway ... I learned a lesson today. That Clearwater Voltage Sentry that I bought a year ago was one of the best investments I've made. The bike wasn't acting strangely -- yet. The voltage monitor gave me an early heads-up that the battery was failing, just a week before a long trip through remote areas without cell signals.
I highly recommend buying and installing a voltage meter, whether it's from Clearwater or Kuryakyn or whoever.
As for the advice to check the battery: Thanks, guys. A lot.
If you have a meter, I would suggest to test your stator and regulator , all at the same time.
Do these tests after you have installed the new battery, use your motorcycle charger and properly charge the battery as per instructions. They give a fast charge , and a maximum current, with two charge times, follow with what applies to your charger.
You need three straight pins, or sewing needles. Follow the wire from your stator up to the 3 pin plug, insert the 3 straight pins , one in each space were the spade terminal rests on the plastic housing. There is sufficient room to use a solid 22 gauge telephone wire, I used straight pins because they don't bend, have a bit of a head on them so the alligator won't slide off, and are easily inserted and removed without damaging anything. Keep them spaced apart , you can make a drawing identifying the location in the socket, calling them pins # 1,#2,#3.
So you need a meter that reads volts AC, a set of alligators for your leads.
Set your idle at 2000RPM, have all materials in place and ready for testing.
measure 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 1. post those results, voltage should be within 0.5 volts between phases. Since you have a led note what colour it is during this test.
Next test, stop the motor, place your battery tender on the battery. Disconnect the plug from the socket, there are two plastic latches, this socket is a bi-----------h to get apart, try flexing from side to side while pulling apart.When apart, if you have it, apply a light
amount of electrical grease.
This test we are testing the voltage output of the stator at no load, two things we are looking for, voltage balance and possible winding damage. Repeat the above test and post results, you should be getting around 22 volts AC, within 0.3 VAC of each other.
A second stage of this is to fasten one lead to frame ground, then measure from frame ground to ; 1 , ground to 2, ground to 3, post results.
Remember, this isn't a ohms test, this stator is able to output 14 amps RMS per phase at max output, second thing, if there are any shorts, you are testing no load , open circuit, so the output voltage will be higher than it is ever possible to achieve under normal load conditions, any shorts will show up.
The reason for this being the last test, it is assumed the motor is hot, the stator has been outputing power, it is hot, so expansion has taken place, if you have any shorts or grounds, this will definitely find them.
Just remember, with the plug disconnected , your charger is supplying about 6 amp to run the motorcycle, FYI , if the headlight comes on, once the bike is running, hit the start switch for a second or less, this will kill the light, eliminating 55 watts of wasted power under test conditions.
A alternate solution is to connect to a car battery, with the car motor off using booster cables.
Anything you don't understand, post it AND PM
me, I am happy to help. Nothing worse than ruining a good bike trip.